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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 12:26 PM
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Cab removal questions

First off I'm new to the forum and have found it a wealth of information thank-you all.

I'am starting a retoration on a 76 f-100 2wd custom with a 302 and a 4 speed.

I have been told by mechanic friends that removing the cab is not recomended. If the cab is removed the interior of the cab has to be braced by welding bars similar to a roll cage, I'm guessing. Because once the bolts are removed they twist making them impossible to get lined back up to the frame. I'v seen several bare frames here on the forum, I was curious if any of you could comment on if there is anthing to be concerned about.

Thanks
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 12:38 PM
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I dont know what your friends are talking about. Cabs can be taken on and off whenever you want. Just make sure not to drop it off a forklift or something and it will bolt right back on. If you want to remove it to do some stuff, go for it
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 01:04 PM
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lol SECOND THAT. I'm sure either that person was talking about a car and removal of the entire floor or sections or please don't listen to them again Cab has like 4 or 6 mounting bolts and the fender bolts, ground/s, Some wiring, steering column. hmm sounds bout it. if you fuel tank is inside cab there will be a fuel line that should be unbolted/plugged. oh and brake booster/lines.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 01:15 PM
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Dont forget the emergency brake cable either, its easy to miss
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 01:26 PM
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Dough ! yes parking break.. thats something i'd do haha get the cab up a bit.. and wonder what the heck is it hung up on !
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 01:47 PM
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Did a cab swap on my 71 F350 from a 250 and was dropping the cab down and noticed the rear mounts weren't going to line up! Oh the F350 cab and chassis has narrower frame. But look, the other cab has punch marks where to drill. It's all ok.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 02:14 PM
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There is no problem removing the cab from the frame. It's done all the time. I've got my cab removed right now and am getting ready to take another cab off.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 03:31 PM
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Thanks guys thats kinda what I figured but I didn't want to tear into it and find out he was right the hard way either.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 09:44 AM
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No problem , thats what this site is for. Remember .. we all love pictures so " keep us aBREST" of your cab swap.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by FarmerBill
No problem , thats what this site is for. Remember .. we all love pictures so " keep us aBREST" of your cab swap.
Yeah, we all LOVE truck ****!
 
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by merlynr
Did a cab swap on my 71 F350 from a 250 and was dropping the cab down and noticed the rear mounts weren't going to line up! Oh the F350 cab and chassis has narrower frame. But look, the other cab has punch marks where to drill. It's all ok.
I had the same experiance , I swapped out my rusty cab on my 74 F350 cab & chassis, with a cab from a 77 F1504x4. On the F150, the rear cab mounts wer outside the frame rails, on my F350, the rear mounts attatch to a crossmember between the frame rails. drilled thru the punch marks, it bolted right up. As for the cab flexing during Re&Re, shouldn`t be an issue. Compared to a car body, a truck cab is much shorter and pretty stiff.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 10:08 AM
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I used ratchet straps thru the side windows and tractor with a front loader to lift the cab.
 
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