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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Cab Removal

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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 10:15 PM
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Post Cab Removal


I just found a donor cab for my 66 and was wondering if anyone has a written procedure for the removal of the old cab. The donor cab is stripped, no door, glass, steering wheel, wiring. etc. I was wondering if it was better to removed the whole cab and contents and then move what I need from it to the new mounted cab or should I strip the old one prior to removal. I fear indecision will lead to inaction. A procedure for removing would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 10:42 PM
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Don't forget to 'save' your original left door or at least the warranty tag on the left door. You have such a great opportunity to completely recondition/restore the donor/cab before putting it on your frame.
Note: you can get new warranty tag rivet/buttons form Marti. I do not have their web link handy but I'm sure someone here will post it.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 10:56 PM
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Remind us what your immediate plans for the truck are. If a cab & bed off the frame restoration or restomod then take everything out - carefully - having taken lots of pictures of what goes where and how before taking the first thing off. Remember, the more weight you take off/out of the cab, the easier it will be to maneuver. So you can remove the seat and the gas tank, remove the doors (I assume you are using your doors on the new cab?), remove the rear window and windshield. It's all weight and it all has to end up in your "new" cab. Depending on when you plan to replace weatherstripping and window fuzzies, you may not need to take the glass out of the doors - but they will be heavy and awkward so make sure you have support under them (like a floor jack with padding) and help to hold them when you unbolt them. Disconnect the throttle linkage which is attached to the cab firewall. Disconnect the transmission/clutch linkage. Disconnect all of the electrical wiring CAREFULLY, labeling each wire and where it goes. Possibly draw a diagram of it before you take it apart. Disconnect the cab to engine ground(s). Disconnect the brakes or remove the master cylinder and cap off the lines. If all of that stuff is original this is a good time to replace/upgrade. Remove the hood - it's fairly heavy so make sure you have help so you don't tweak it or the hinges. Disconnect the cab from the fenders and inner fenders. Some of the bolts to do that are in awkward places and may be under access panels. Don't force things, there may be a mount bolt or two you haven't accounted for. There are four cab mounts to unbolt. The rear two are with the gas tank bottom mount brackets. The front two are located behind access panels at the bottom front outside of the cab. If you have the bed off of the truck, sliding the cab rearward on the frame rails works well while you are checking to make sure everything is disconnected and hasn't caught on something. This is all from memory having done it a couple of years ago. I've probably forgotten a few things (which some helpful FTEers will surely point out), but this should give you an idea of how to go about it. Good luck!
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 11:02 PM
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Yikes! I forgot to mention removing the steering wheel, disconnecting the steering column at the rag joint and then disconnecting and removing the column inside the cab. Also, disconnect the heater hoses and remove the heater assembly. Lord knows what else I forgot. But it's a start.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 02:01 AM
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You just officially scared the hell out of the guy. Now he just may sell the truck. You mentioned so much work, I may even stop working on mine. NA, I'm doomed to working on these old pieces of iron for the rest of my life... Its a sickness...
 
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 09:57 AM
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Well, he did ask! You're right, working on these things is addicting. I managed to think of more things I forgot. If you have a windshield washer, remove the hose before removing the hood. Choke cable - disconnect from carb, then disconnect from dash and pull it through. Handbrake cable - disconnect from ratchet assy inside cab and pull into engine bay after disconnecting from inner fender clamp (and possibly others). Speedo cable - disconnect from back of speedo and pull through firewall into engine bay. May (probably) have to unscrew instrument panel and pull out to have access to cable end. Can't emphasize enough - before you take anything apart, take lots of close-up pictures so you know, for instance, which holes in the firewall the choke cable, speedo cable, and brake cable go through. When you take something off, bag it and label what the hardware is. I like to use the clear sandwich bags so I can see what's inside. Plus there are several sizes to choose from. Have fun!
 
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 12:08 PM
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From: colbert washington
Don't drill out the rivets holding the warranty tag to the door if you have not done so and they are still factory. Take a center punch or similar pointed tool even a Phillips screw driver should work and push out on the center of the rivet from inside the door and it should come out and you can save it and reuse it.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 01:28 PM
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If I read him correctly, he's moving HIS original doors to the new cab. The new cab doesn't have any doors at present. He should not need to transfer his warranty tag. If I misread him, then you're right.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 02:37 PM
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From: colbert washington
Originally Posted by SuperSabre
If I read him correctly, he's moving HIS original doors to the new cab. The new cab doesn't have any doors at present. He should not need to transfer his warranty tag. If I misread him, then you're right.
Not trying to be right or wrong here just passing on a helpful piece of info so people wont have to go searching for those nagging little parts. Who knows he found a better cab maybe he will find some better doors one day. I know Ive been down that road before.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2013 | 07:30 AM
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Talking

Thanks again guys. And if someone gets scared by how much work it takes, then this isn't the hobby for them
 
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