Just ordered a new pump/injectors/return line kit from Justin, and a new radiator. Normally I would tackle this on my own, but we are moving in three weeks and time to wrench on the truck is limited. How long should it take to replace the injectors and pump? I'm a competent mechanic (owning two British-built autos at the same time keeps me in practice), but I also have access to a great diesel mechanic, and I don't have a way to time it correctly, so he's going to get it for that, anyway. I could devote no more than four hours to the injection system at this point. I am going to do the radiator replacement and oil/lube/filter as well as fit the new rear roll bar. I just don't want to get part way through and run out of time or into a problem.

 

IMO, the hardest part is swapping the lines to the new injection pump.
or cleaning the bores for the new injectors.
4 hours seems about par for a IP and sticks from tear down to run.


do not pull the IP gear housing off if you decide to do it.

 

I think you can do injectors in 2hrs easy .. if you have no turbo to move out the way ..

It's all on top if u got a good breaker bar .. i would personally like to do these things myself because i'm concerned with stripped threads .. lines .. o-rings .. if someone else is careless or in a hurry u can have fuel leaks ..

 

Biggest pain in the **** I run into is stuck copper washers. Takes a bit to thread a bolt into them and pry them loose. It's a pretty straight forward job, I could do a write up with pics if interested.

 

You can use this for the steps ... Just ignore steps 2 and 16-21 unless you want to reseal the gear cover while you have the IP off.

Injection Pump Gear Cover Re-Seal Basics.

1. Unplug IP wires.
2. Rotate Motor to TDC #1.
   1. Remove #1 Glow Plug.
   2. DO NOT Place Finger over Glow Plug hole, hold a piece of paper over it!
   3. Bump motor over until you feel air forced out.
   4. Hand turn motor to TDC. (Harmonic Balancer mark and Pointer)
   5. If you go past TDC, Do not rotate motor backwards, Rotate motor TWO revolutions by hand to TDC.
      If you choose to back the motor up, go back far enough to sneak up on TDC.
3. Unhook Throttle linkage.
4. Remove Throttle Return spring.
5. Remove Throttle linkage bracket.
6. Unplug High Idle Solenoid wire.
7. Remove High Idle Solenoid.
8. Unhook Return Line on IP.
9. Remove Fuel Supply line.
10. Unhook Injection lines at the Injectors.
11. Remove Oil Filler Neck. (or IP gear bolt access cover)
12. Remove the three 12 point bolts holding drive gear to IP.
13. Take note of the IP Static timing marks between top of IP and Gear cover. (Or put a mark between them)
14. Remove the three nuts holding the IP to Gear cover.
15. Remove IP.
16. Remove 4 bolts holding the cover.
17. Remove Cover.
    • WARNING!!! DO NOT ALLOW THE IP GEAR to disengage from the Cam gear! BE CAREFUL!
18. Make two marks on the IP gear at the block surface (one on each side) just in case the gear gets moved.
    • At this point the gear will be resting on one side or the other of the block.
    • It is safe to CAREFULLY ROLL the gear to the other side. Ensure you do not separate it from it's mate, kept it meshed!
    • Clean the half opposite of the gear, carefully roll gear over to the clean side, clean the other side.
19. Clean up block and IP gear cover 100% OIL FREE ... Cleanliness is pretty much everything in a good, long lasting seal!
20. Apply 1/16" bead of Permatex Ultra Grey to the center of the sealing surface and around the bolt holes.
    • NOTE! I prefer NON Sillycone Semi-drying sealants, I use Yamabond 4.
    • Permatex HighTack Gasket maker is good stuff as well, Although a nightmare to cleanup next time.
    • I hate HighTack for that reason.
21. Set IP cover and tighten to specs.
22. Reverse steps for assembly.

EDIT
See red

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Oh, there is a turbo in the way...

 

The Turbo is not in the way to change the IP ... Injectors, possibly different story.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I replaced my injectors with the turbo in place

Soak down everything ahead of time with aerokroil or ph blaster. A couple times a day. I did mine and had zero broken glow plugs, zero stuck washers.

I used never seize on the injector threads into the head and to hold the washer on.

Id say 4 hours just to be safe. You need to time it after up swap. Line to line gets you within 4 degrees of timing or so.

 

Wait... why are we removing the gear cover? I've never had to do that just to change an IP!
My method is:
1. Remove the air cleaner. Remove the throttle linkage and bracket.
2. Remove the feed line from the filter head down to the IP.
3. Remove all of the vibration dampener brackets(these are bolted around multiple high pressure lines; there are 3-4 of them).
4. Remove each high pressure line, preferably marking where it went(though they only go one way). You can get the top 4 lines(at the injector pump) in any order; you then need to do the outer two, and then the bottom two. Effectively, just remove which ones you can reach; getting the higher ones out of the way exposes the bottom ones.
5. With all the IP lines removed, disconnect the return line system from both the IP and injectors. You can probably remove it as a unit, or just a couple of pieces.
6. Remove the front access cover in front of the IP gear; two 5/16"(1/2" socket) bolts from the fan side of the IP gear cover.
7. Remove the 3 IP gear bolts; 5/16 12-point socket required.
8. Loosen the 3 IP holding nuts at the rear of the cover, slide the IP out a bit, then remove the nuts(usually you can't get the nuts out with the IP fully seated).
9. Pull the IP towards the back of the motor and up and out. May take some wiggling.
10. Get new IP, moving any hardware from the old IP as needed.
11. Reinstall new IP by following instructions in reverse. You'll need to rotate the IP shaft by hand to get it to line up with the guide pin on the IP gear. Get it close to the same angle before trying to install the IP.

For the injectors, while you have it apart you need a 1" deep socket 6-point. Then use a breaker bar, or impact wrench and universal joint to get them loose and out.
If a copper washer gets stuck down the bore, you can use a drillbit and hammer to start digging into the soft copper, then try to twist and pull it up and out.
If it's in good shape, you can also leave it; you aren't supposed to, but as long as you torque the new injector down, it'll be fine.
When you install new O-rings on the new injectors, coat them with wheel bearing grease. It works /much/ better than Vasoline, and seems to help prevent leaks on those O-rings. I've had very good luck with the wheel bearing grease, even after re-using the same O-rings during messing with things and disturbing them many times.

When reinstalling the injector lines, make sure to do it the reverse of removal; do the two at the bottom of the IP first, then the next two up from them, and then the final four.
Leave the injector ends slightly loose, but make sure the IP side is tight.

Reinstall the vibration dampeners.

To bleed the system, you crank the engine with the accelerator floored(throttle lever at max), and the injector lines loose at the injector. Once you see fluid spurting from them, tighten them down.
With all the lines mostly empty from being pulled off the IP, it'll take a couple minutes of cranking to bleed.

 

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Well, it looks like the injection parts won't be here in time for me to do the work, they will arrive during crunch time for the move. So down to the diesel shop it goes. Of course it couldn't start running rough until right before we need it to pull everything we own 2500 miles! He'll get it right, and I'll get to do all the other stuff that needs to be done before we head to warmer shores. I'll get plenty of wrench time when I pull the two 454s out of our boat, so don't feel too sad for me not getting to replace the pump and injectors.