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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 06:49 AM
  #1  
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Dizzy

Hi guys I have a 351 Cleveland in a 81 f100 and dizzy is stuck can't twist it or pull it out just wandering what's the easiest and cheapest way to get it out
 
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 07:02 AM
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Johno.h, this was discussed not too long ago. Try this link: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...structive.html

Good day, mate!
 
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 07:39 PM
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Get something good like Kroil or PB blaster and soak it for a couple of days, that should loosen the sticky carbon/burnt oil that makes them stick in place.

One thing to watch out for; Sticking in the bottom of the dist shaft is a hex shaft that drives the oil pump. There is a little keeper on this shaft that keeps it in the oil pump. Problem is, it gets stuck in the dist. As you pull the dist out, it can slide this keeper off the oil pump hex shaft and the whole hex shaft comes out with the dist.

If it comes out, fine. If it comes out about half-way and then falls back into the engine, not good. You will have to get it out of there. If it did come all the way out, then you have the chore of placing it back down in the hole, into the oil pump, without losing it. The correct socket, a little grease on the socket, and lots of taped together 1/4 extensions can do the trick if you are careful. You then have to pull your insertion tool back up and hopefully the shaft stays in place.

And each time after this when you pull the dist there is a risk of losing the driveshaft, since the keeper is gone now.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 08:16 PM
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I always thought it was galvanic corrosion from the two dissimilar metals coming in contact with each other that causes them to seize....aluminum body distributor in a cast iron block. I had one several years ago in a 400 Ford that was seized tight. I finally wrapped a chain around it and used an engine hoist to pull up on it while heating and pounding against it until it finally popped out. When it did come out it was covered in white, crusty powder...evidence of corrosion. I've had a few stuck in Ford FE engines as well with the same type of corrosion, but never seen it happen in a Chevy V8. Right now the distributor is stuck tight in my 460. I wanted to play with the timing on it last year but gave up. Some day I'll have to tackle it.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 07:02 AM
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I've heard that a combination of acetone, and ATF is the best penetrant out there. 50/50 mix.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 09:02 AM
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Heat works too! (especially if replacing it with new)
 
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by maytag906
I've heard that a combination of acetone, and ATF is the best penetrant out there. 50/50 mix.
I recently used this formula to free up the seized receiver hitch on my Windstar from Green Bay, WI. (solid rust).
 
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by maytag906
I've heard that a combination of acetone, and ATF is the best penetrant out there. 50/50 mix.
I tried that. It does work well, but stinks terribly and I do not know what to store it in. I put it in a metal oil pump bottle and after a couple of months I was left with ATF, all the acetone evaporated. I went back to the store bought stuff, Kroil is the best hands down, but sometimes hard to find.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
I tried that. It does work well, but stinks terribly and I do not know what to store it in. I put it in a metal oil pump bottle and after a couple of months I was left with ATF, all the acetone evaporated. I went back to the store bought stuff, Kroil is the best hands down, but sometimes hard to find.
Try a slower evaporating solvent like mineral spirits, should work about as well.
1 qt ATF + 1 qt mineral spirits = 2 qts Kroil. Much cheaper and easier to find.
 
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