Spindle nut torque
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 182
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From: Statesboro, GA
Spindle nut torque
Just replaced the front inner and outer wheel bearings on my 81 F150, 2wd. What is the proper spindle nut torque?
I tried using the "feel" method, but I can either get the hub to seem to have too much resistance spinning or the nut is just turning freely; not much middle ground.
I tried using the "feel" method, but I can either get the hub to seem to have too much resistance spinning or the nut is just turning freely; not much middle ground.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Part of the confusion sometimes stems from the Shop manual itself, if you look there are two different torque or procedures depending on whether new bearings are installed, versus the inspection, repacking, and re-installation of used, but serviceable bearings.
"Replace" install has a higher initial preload. Note that this is a one time deal. If one were to use the replace torque on used bearing set, they would likely get smoked.
Did you replace bearing cups, aka bearing races? That's the correct way, sometimes this gets overlooked because (surprise!) it's more of a hassle. New bearing installation is going to be subjectively a little bit on what might seem to be the tight side, especially if bearing cups and bearings have been replaced. If new bearings and worn old cups are used it won't fit quite right and may also lead to the situation you describe. On the other hand a used set isn't much more than finger tight on the spindle nut when all is said and done.
The bearing manufacturers also have installation instructions you can download via .pdf at their websites to get more background.
"Replace" install has a higher initial preload. Note that this is a one time deal. If one were to use the replace torque on used bearing set, they would likely get smoked.
Did you replace bearing cups, aka bearing races? That's the correct way, sometimes this gets overlooked because (surprise!) it's more of a hassle. New bearing installation is going to be subjectively a little bit on what might seem to be the tight side, especially if bearing cups and bearings have been replaced. If new bearings and worn old cups are used it won't fit quite right and may also lead to the situation you describe. On the other hand a used set isn't much more than finger tight on the spindle nut when all is said and done.
The bearing manufacturers also have installation instructions you can download via .pdf at their websites to get more background.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
According to the SKF website 1977-1996 2WD F150:
"Tighten hub nut to 22-25 ft-lbs while rotating hub in opposite direction. Back off 1/8 turn and install locknut and cotter pin."
http://www.skf.com/binary/79-66360/457377.pdf
"Tighten hub nut to 22-25 ft-lbs while rotating hub in opposite direction. Back off 1/8 turn and install locknut and cotter pin."
http://www.skf.com/binary/79-66360/457377.pdf
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 182
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From: Statesboro, GA
Thanks. I got Timken bearings from AutoZone. Couldn't find vehicle specific torque specs from them. Hopefully SKF and Timken are the same.
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Post Fiend
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If you want to get by for the time being, get a center punch that you use to mark metal before you drill. Not a cheap nail set punch but a real center punch. Take it and a hammer and make marks in a even pattern all the way around the area that is worn. This will raise the metal up and take some of the play out.
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