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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 06:34 AM
  #1  
ArtsBest's Avatar
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WHEEL BEARING

I keep throwing a wheel bearing in my left rear tire. After over 170K miles the bearing went bad. Which is to expected. The new one lasted only 2 years. Then I replaced the hub and another bearing. The newest bearing lasted one day and we installed the best bearing one can buy . What could be wrong? Bad mechanic? Bad luck? Suspension problem does NOT appear to be the case.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 07:57 AM
  #2  
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Worn spindle, bearing pre-load too high, bearing pre-load too low, failure to secure bearing retainer nut, lubrication failure.
Others will probably chime in with more, especially if they knew what the axle is.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 02:14 PM
  #3  
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From: Minneapolis, Mn
Bearing failure

Doesn't look like anyone else is going to chime in so here's my thought - wheelnut torque & preload that results. It's something like 295 'lb IIRC, which at first glance seems like a whole lot. If you set it like on an older vehicle and didn't also replace the axel nut at the same time then you're probable short on preload which would definitely kill a set of bearings. That would be like half tightening the nut then driving it unless you set the torque on the nut to preload correctly
 
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 03:45 PM
  #4  
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If there is no problem with spindle, cone, and preload and lube and no exposure to elements, then...

Cheap clone bearing is the most likely culprit.

Where did you get your bearings?

If it lasted one day, it is clearly defective.

Where did you get the bearing?

If you bought it off eBay, very high chance it is a knock off clone that is unfit for your vehicle.



Read this for fake, reconditioned, repackaged used bearings:


How to identify reconditioned bearings - SKF.ph/Distributors/How to detect fake bearings





SKF.ph / Distributors / How to detect fake bearings / Print this page
How to identify reconditioned bearings

Reconditioned bearings are classified into two (2) categories:

(1) Reconditioned but not used i.e. bearings bought as surplus stock from plant sites or other sources. These bearings may have corroded and are then cleaned, repaired, and repacked and in many sold as new bearings.

(2) Reconditioned used bearings i.e. bearings that are replaced as normal preventive maintenance practices at plant sites and sold as scrap. These are then repaired, repacked and in many instances, passed on as new bearings.

Obviously, the use of bearings as described under (2) is much more detrimental than (1).

Reconditioned bearings are either supplied together with genuine bearings or simply in batches or single reconditioned bearings.

Check for the following:

1. Mode of packaging
Manufacturers bearings are usually neatly packed from production. Small to medium size bearings are normally wrapped in plastic after first being coated with oil and rust inhibitor and are placed in appropriately marked boxes. Reconditioned bearings on the other hand, are normally wrapped in clear plastic or cloth. The bearing number and brand are generally handwritten in pentel pen. It is not uncommon to find that reconditioned bearings are covered with rust and corrosion marks when being unwrapped, especially when they have been in storage for a while.

For large size bearings, genuine bearings are machined wrapped in plastic strip with a logo bond wrapped around the circumference of the outer ring, or packed in a crate with distinctive markings.

It may be so that some manufacturers still wrap large size bearings in cloth, however, the markings are normally with pre-painted labels of some kind.

CAUTION:Some new bearings may be repacked when the original packing is destroyed. Ask your supplier for a certification that you are being supplied with a genuine new bearing.

2. Boundary Dimensions
Used bearings in many instances, have corrosion marks on the inner rings as well as on the load zone of the outer rings. To recondition such bearings, the contaminated surfaces and even dent marks resulting from mounting and dismounting have to be finish ground. This process will affect the original dimension of the bearing i.e. loose inner rings on shaft and loose outer ring on housing.

3. Bearing internal Clearance
Reconditioned bearings in general, have bigger internal clearance relative to their clearance designation. This is because the bearings are used and wear have already taken place on both raceways and rolling elements.

4. Stress marks
For large size bearings where the raceways can be visually examined, i.e. spherical roller bearings, cylindrical roller bearings, taper roller bearings, spherical roller thrust bearings, etc. The raceways of reconditioned bearings normally show visible stressed marks especially if the bearings are heavily loaded.

5. Finish Grinding
Reconditioned bearings generally have inconsistent grinding and sanding marks on the outer ring or on the rolling surfaces (Note, however, that this dose not apply to the side faces of a bearing where you may have inconsistent grinding marks). This means that the finish ground marks are seen in different directions, which is not the case for brand new bearings.

6. New bearings (open type) are generally not pre-greased, they are covered with a layer of oil and anti-corrosive substance.

Please note however, that some manufacturers do pre-grease certain types of bearings for preservation.



How to identify spurious (fake) bearings and sleeves

Various types of bearings are subject to the above practice, some of the common ones are:

Spherical Roller Bearings
Self-Aligning Ball Bearings
Adapter Sleeves
Taper Roller Bearings
Double Row Angular Contact Bearings Large Size Ball bearings

(1) Check if the original packing has been tampered with or if the packing and labeling does not conform to the original manufacturers packing. There may be distinct differences or there may be small, difficult to detect differences. Some boxes or packing are being reprinted in the Philippines to supply spurious bearings.

Check if the packing material inside the box conforms with the original manufacturers packing. It is best to compare with a similar type of bearing from the same manufacturer and from the same country of origin. It need not be the same size.

Industrial inch series taper roller bearings (cup & cone) are normally packed separately unless these are pre-packed assemblies. However, this will be indicated by a preprinted number on the box. In many instances, you will find that the cups and cones are packed together and that the numbering on the box has been changed or added to by pentel pen.

You may find that in these instances either the cup or cone are fake. Compare the cup and cone to the original, and ensure that all numbers, trademarks and patent stamp, correspond. Check the number of rollers and the cage design as well.

Combined packing without protection between the cup and cone may cause false brinelling in the bearings due to transportation resulting in premature failure.

Note: Metric taper roller bearings sets (the 3-- series) are always packed together and must not be confused with the above. However, most manufacturers normally separate the cup and cone by a protective plastic sheet.

(2) Check the numbering on the bearing and do the same comparison as described above. Note that each manufacturer normally has an origin and year of manufacture code printed on the bearing. This code may have one (1) or two (2) alphabetical numbers e.g., (EB) or E, being year manufactured and B, country of origin. This numbering may therefore vary from bearing to bearing.Make sure that the suffix (or prefix) of the bearing actually exist (from the manufacturers catalogue). Designs are updated continually, therefore, ensure that you are comparing the exact same bearing e.g., SKF 22217 EK should not be compared to SKF 22217 CCK/W33. The design in this instance has been upgraded and there will be differences, although both bearings are used in the same application.

(3) Check the design of the bearing. Sometimes designs are very similar but in many instances, there are distinct differences. Some examples:The cage and internal design can differ from manufacturer to manufacturer. This is especially so with spherical roller bearings. Again do the same comparison as described under (1) and (2). If you are not sure ask the manufacturers assistance.

(4) Check the following in Ball and Roller Bearings:

A. Cage Design
B. Cage material (i.e. steel brass plastic, etc.)
C. Length and size of rollers
D. Size of *****

(5) Some adapter sleeves are made locally and then fitted with nut and washer of a reputable manufacturer. You will find differences in:

A. Numbering of the sleeves. Manufacturers usually print the number and brand on the actual sleeve.
B. They are generally not boxed in the original manufacturers boxes.
C. Sleeve gap may be bigger than the original.
D. Finishing is different from the original.

Spurious (fake) bearings are sometimes difficult to identify by the enduser. In such instances, ask the manufacturers assistance.



How to identify tampered bearings

The most common practice of bearings tampering is the re-machining of parallel bore bearings to taper bore (K). This commonly happens with spherical roller bearings or self-aligning ball bearings.

If your supplier advises you that this needs to be done due to a critical supply situation, ask for a certification that the machining was done correctly. If the machining was done incorrectly, you will have premature failure. You can identify tampered bearings by the following:

1. A tampered number K will be added both to the designation on the box and the bearing.

2. You will note the machining marks on the bore of the bearing.

3. The chamfer of the bearing bore on both sides should be the same. When the bearing is machined, the chamfer on the side will be much sharper than the original.

Another tampering practice is the remarking of bearings to a different clearance from the original.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 12:25 AM
  #5  
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mark a.
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What vehicle, axle, are you working on ?
 
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