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You have trouble merging onto a highway? Damn mine merges fine with power to spare!
Did it run like that when you bought it?
Maybe it was poor example. At speed the truck runs like a beast. If I'm doing 65-75 and drop the hammer it gears down and accelerates with no issues (NOT TOWING). Its a dog off the line or if I'm doing 20-40 and need to get to 50-60 in a hurry. I do notice that it has to double shift from 6th down to 5th down to 4th on inclines at highway speed instead of just jumping to 4th so it takes a few seconds longer than I'm used to to find the right gear. Not a big deal though.
Unless I'm reading the axle code wrong (3E) I am running 3.73 Electronic Locking gears with the 275/65R20 tires so it will not be optimum for towing. I would prefer to have the 4.30 gears, but I'm not going to regear it. It came with the tow package and trailer brakes so I have no idea why it didn't come with the 4.30s. I didn't order the truck. I bought it used with 8500 miles on it. Mostly what I want is better throttle response at lower speeds and what ever advantage I can get while towing.
Maybe it was poor example. At speed the truck runs like a beast. If I'm doing 65-75 and drop the hammer it gears down and accelerates with no issues (NOT TOWING). Its a dog off the line or if I'm doing 20-40 and need to get to 50-60 in a hurry. I do notice that it has to double shift from 6th down to 5th down to 4th on inclines at highway speed instead of just jumping to 4th so it takes a few seconds longer than I'm used to to find the right gear. Not a big deal though.
Unless I'm reading the axle code wrong (3E) I am running 3.73 Electronic Locking gears with the 275/65R20 tires so it will not be optimum for towing. I would prefer to have the 4.30 gears, but I'm not going to regear it. It came with the tow package and trailer brakes so I have no idea why it didn't come with the 4.30s. I didn't order the truck. I bought it used with 8500 miles on it. Mostly what I want is better throttle response at lower speeds and what ever advantage I can get while towing.
I've noticed at times the shifting strategy on these trucks is a bit odd. You could use manual mode. I"ve thought of getting a 5 star tune for mine but I don't want to void my warranty. Sounds like that would help the most from what I read on here.
its a GAS engine, let it Spin,,, over 4,000 rpm's she WILL WORK.
mine has 145,000 miles and pulls a 9,000 pound trailer and 1,500 in the bed of the truck.. and does well up and down the West Virginia hills.
the fly-by-wire does make it seem sleepy... a 5 Star. OR just put it to the floor.
I don't know about the newer trucks, but on the '01 I don't see a red line on the tac. Even the 5.4 will tow (5 speed with 4.10s) but it's just gotta wind up a bit do do it.
Modern engines don't mind singing along at 4000, 5000.
Heck, even my 204000 mile Jeep 4.0 has no problem hitting 5500 and running at 4000 now and then!
I've noticed at times the shifting strategy on these trucks is a bit odd. You could use manual mode. I"ve thought of getting a 5 star tune for mine but I don't want to void my warranty. Sounds like that would help the most from what I read on here.
I don't know about the newer trucks, but on the '01 I don't see a red line on the tac. Even the 5.4 will tow (5 speed with 4.10s) but it's just gotta wind up a bit do do it.
Modern engines don't mind singing along at 4000, 5000.
Heck, even my 204000 mile Jeep 4.0 has no problem hitting 5500 and running at 4000 now and then!
The 6.2L makes its power in the higher RPMs. 385 HP at 5500 RPMs is singing!
I do know you have to re-flash the factory tune if you have an emissions inspection in your state. It has to be in the truck for a week I think before running the emissions test.
I've heard one of the biggest changes in tuning is eliminating the lag in the drive by wire.
I think a cat-deleted/resonator deleted system with true duals, h-pipe, and mufflers would show promising gains.
Look, get a tuner. Mess with your exhaust. Do whatever else you want.
But before you do any of that, re-gear to 4.30 and drive it like that for a bit. Yes, it can seem expensive when you didn't order it that way, especially on a 4x4 where you're not just doing the rear. But it's a one-time investment with a life-long return. If it's a brand new truck, let the engine break in a little, let the transmission learn how you like to drive it, and put the 4.30 gears in it (or the equivalent if you're putting oversize tires on, so maybe like 4.56 or 4.88 or what have you).
You may decide you still want to tune it and do all that other stuff, in which case go ahead. But gears will make a bigger difference than all of that other stuff combined. And if you do decide to tune it, you'll have a much better understanding of what it's actually getting you.
Thanks again for all the feedback. Definitely good discussion. I called 5 Star and put in an order.
I bought the 6.2L because I didn't want to pay extra for the 6.7L or the added maintenance. I'm not going to regear it, put in a new exhaust, and all the other upgrades to try to make it more like a 6.7L when I could have bought the 6.7L for two or three thousand more than all the upgrades would end up costing me. After speaking to 5 Star I think I will be happy with the result. If not, then I'll sell the truck and buy a diesel.
Yah I'm shocked that the previous owner of my truck never changed out the gear sets. He did about everything else I'd like to have done to it except for that. The cheap SOB. He lost 35-40g on the truck in four years. He could've atleast ponied up another 2500-$3000(cdn) for regearing.
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