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Lurked and learned for a year or so! Just wanted to honestly say thanks to everyone on here... I have a 2003 EB 4x4 v10 and have learned to do just about everything on it here! Before this truck about the only thing I had ever done on a car was an oil change, now I have a new hobby
My X mods so far:
Bfg ko2 35s on helo 16s
Dual front Shocks, Bilstein 5100 all around
Crazy beefy leaf springs, not sure the code. Done by po.
Door seal mod
K and N
Synthetic fluid everywhere
Mag Hytec diff covers
Y pipe mod
Mikes 5 star custom tunes
Pioneer double din, kicker 6x8 all around and RF 12
Brush guard with warn winch
Yakima mega warrior with extension
4" lift~
Front andrear sway bar
Halo headlights
Led tailights
Leds throughout the whole truck in and out
Led fog lights
Led reverse light
Viper alarm, remote start
Rancho steering stabilizer
Rear view camera
More im forgetting right now...
Recent maintenance performed: (not all done by me, still learning)
Steering box
Drag link
Hub bearings
Fixed door ajar light issue
Diff fluid change
Painted frame
Due to an unfortunate accident here on I17 it has a new tranny, transfer case and driveshafts courtesy of Geico
Love this truck and plan to keep it for a long time, hence teaching myself how to do most work on it! Thanks again fellas not only have I had fun doing this work myself, but I figure ive saved about $1800 in labor so far... Now on to the brakes!
We're glad you finally came out of hiding and it's good to hear you love modding as much as most of us. Please do tell about the geico incident. Welcome to the club and what part of the world are you from?
It's a K&N (or any other gauze/oil filter) thing, they flow better than paper because they don't filter as well. Since the whole idea of using an air filter is to filter the air, using one that doesn't filter as well may not be a good long term choice. Coupled with the fact that the stock paper filter can flow more air than the motor can pull in at redline makes the poorer filtration of the washables even less desirable.
For a maximum power racing application where the motor's run time over it's life cycle is a tiny fraction of a street car/truck's lifetime run time that poorer filtration isn't as big of an issue. For the long haul there are better choices.
Thx for the welcome! Live in Phoenix. Right after I bought the X, we took it to Santa Fe to visit family and on the way home, right around susnet coming down the mountain we ran over something in the road! I didnt see it till too late and decided to take it center since I had kids in the truck and was going 75!!! Kept drivng slowly till I could find a safe place to pull over and by then it was clunk clunk clunk...whatever I hit bounced off the front diff and hit the transfer case sheering the bolts and it was dangling off the truck... Luckily that $7500 repair was covered
As far as K and N, I go back and forth on the debate! I run around in the desert a lot and always check the filter and the housing behind it, Ive never seen any dust behind filter. I have had paper filters choke out... My mobil 1 oil is still pretty clean after 5k miles usually so m keeping it for now. I think if you keep them properly oiled they protect fine and give a little better throttle response. Probably all in my head lol
Ill work on pics, never posted any to a forum before...
Ill work on pics, never posted any to a forum before...
I wrote a whole shebang for you new people that's up in second sticky link on the top of the forum. Has everything in it you need to get started and the basics done around here
A lot of the K&N issues surround forced induction applications, however they honestly don't filter as well as a quality dry element intake system. Properly maintained and oiled they're decent, but not ideal.
Having built and rebuilt quite a few motors from mild to wild and for a variety of uses, one that has run a K&N has noticeably more pitting through the throttle body, around the blade, as well as the intake runners on the manifolds and cylinder heads. The amount varies from motor to motor and the environment it is operated in.
I wrote a whole shebang for you new people that's up in second sticky link on the top of the forum. Has everything in it you need to get started and the basics done around here
A lot of the K&N issues surround forced induction applications, however they honestly don't filter as well as a quality dry element intake system. Properly maintained and oiled they're decent, but not ideal.
Having built and rebuilt quite a few motors from mild to wild and for a variety of uses, one that has run a K&N has noticeably more pitting through the throttle body, around the blade, as well as the intake runners on the manifolds and cylinder heads. The amount varies from motor to motor and the environment it is operated in.
Thanks for the reply... It looks like I need to replace the k and n! I am in AZ after all and we have a lot of dust!
On another note:
Today I scored! I bought a late model Warn M12000 with mounting bracket for $100 today, all it needs is a rope! Cant believe my luck, my X has a warn 9000 on it that the po put on it and from everything ive ever read you need at least 1.5 vehicles weight. Dont use it here in the desert, but if I have one might as well have the right one...
my X has a warn 9000 on it that the po put on it and from everything ive ever read you need at least 1.5 vehicles weight. Dont use it here in the desert, but if I have one might as well have the right one...
I've had great luck with a smaller winch and a couple of pulleys.