Turning off Sway Control?
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Turning off Sway Control?
I've seen a few posts about turning off the automatic sway control. I've got a 250, 6.2, 3.73, and tow a 34ft TT. At times, even with the Equalizer WD and sway bars, it still feels a little white knuckle. I've heard using both the built in and the sway bars can counteract, and cause issues, including less MPG (i've gotten in the low 7s a few times, in FL). Anyone else tried both? What works? Thanks!
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I don't think it will have any significant advantages. I've towed my 26' TT thousands of miles with Ford trucks equipped with sway control and never had any issues. The only time I here about the counteracting theory are when people bring it up in a forum. I have not seen any test done to substantiate the claim. If you think about it, the trucks sway system is designed to limit the trucks sway and is an electronically controlled process. The WDH sway system is designed to limit trailer sway and is a completely mechanical process. I don't see how they would counteract each other since they are attempting to control two different pieces of equipment. I have noticed better throttle response with the advancetrac turned off, but that is about it. I'm sure opinions will vary.
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From: Sioux Falls Area
The sway control will activate the trailer brakes to help stop trailer sway. Leave it on.
If the sway control is kicking in affecting your fuel mileage, then you are seriously out of shape in a dangerous way, and I don't think that is the case.
I can't imagine why you would feel white knuckle with that combo. Have you scaled the truck and trailer? It sounds like you may need to tweak your adjustments a little bit. With that hitch your rig should feel like an arrow going down the road. It will move with the wind, but it should move as a unit in a straight line.
That being said, everyone's tolerance for towing is slightly different, so it may be a matter of getting used to the way it tows.
I'd start at the scales. Electronic sway control is not your problem.
If the sway control is kicking in affecting your fuel mileage, then you are seriously out of shape in a dangerous way, and I don't think that is the case.
I can't imagine why you would feel white knuckle with that combo. Have you scaled the truck and trailer? It sounds like you may need to tweak your adjustments a little bit. With that hitch your rig should feel like an arrow going down the road. It will move with the wind, but it should move as a unit in a straight line.
That being said, everyone's tolerance for towing is slightly different, so it may be a matter of getting used to the way it tows.
I'd start at the scales. Electronic sway control is not your problem.
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Thanks for the info. I have not had a chance to hit the scales, though I have made a few adjustments, likely need more. Even with the sway bars attached, the truck still seems like it's a bit high in the nose. I can't take any more links, it's pretty darn tight. I'll likely start over again, and reset everything. My first mistake was not doing that, and adjusting the hitch. Previous owner had an 150 and towed for thousands of miles, so it's gotta be in my adjusting. Thanks for the advice!
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From: Sioux Falls Area
When you say that you can't take any more links, is that because you are out of links, or because you can't lift the bars?
If you need more links, angle the head down. This will give you more links to grab.
If you cant lift the bars, use the jack to lift the truck before you hook up the bars.
When I hook up, I latch the ball, then use the jack to lift the drawbar so that it is tight to the top of the receiver. Sometimes ill go a little more so the rear of the truck is higher by an inch or so.
What brand of hitch are you actually using? You said "equalizer" which is a brand name and thats what I took it for. Equalizers dont use chains, or external sway bars, so that can't be it. If you have friction type sway control, there is some adjustment there which can help as well.
When setting up your hitch, focus your efforts on getting the front axle back to the unloaded ride height and worry less about what the back is doing. The new super dutys sag in the back an embarrassing amount. The idea is to get the weight back up front. Focus your efforts there.
If you need more links, angle the head down. This will give you more links to grab.
If you cant lift the bars, use the jack to lift the truck before you hook up the bars.
When I hook up, I latch the ball, then use the jack to lift the drawbar so that it is tight to the top of the receiver. Sometimes ill go a little more so the rear of the truck is higher by an inch or so.
What brand of hitch are you actually using? You said "equalizer" which is a brand name and thats what I took it for. Equalizers dont use chains, or external sway bars, so that can't be it. If you have friction type sway control, there is some adjustment there which can help as well.
When setting up your hitch, focus your efforts on getting the front axle back to the unloaded ride height and worry less about what the back is doing. The new super dutys sag in the back an embarrassing amount. The idea is to get the weight back up front. Focus your efforts there.
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Joined: Feb 2015
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From: Michigan
The ESC in our 2013 F-150 saved my butt when first bringing a travel trailer back home from the dealer. The dealer had incorrectly over adjusted the WDH and we were passed by a "big as the come" charter bus doing whatever top speed they can do on the freeway. The result was a feeling like a rocket when off in the back of the trailer and we were being propelled into space! I really can't recall what the heck the truck did, but it responded to the motion using a variety of brake applications that kept us in the lane. I would never turn the system off. It seems to work along with the trailer brakes to keep things manageable.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Upstate NY
Are you putting too much 'lift' on those bars which in effect take weight off of the truck's rear axle, putting more on the trailer and the truck front axle? I made this mistake once with a new TT and the driving experience was not fun. Are your WDH bars too 'heavy/light' for your tongue weight? Is the trailer loaded wrong with too much weight in the rear or front? Are the trailer springs in good shape, no cracked leaves? The shocks work or any suspension like a MORryde have good rubber pieces? Are the spring shackles broken or the bushings worn?
That was the trailer - now, the truck - look at springs, shocks, hitch to truck integrity, tire inflation, sway bars if equipped.
That was the trailer - now, the truck - look at springs, shocks, hitch to truck integrity, tire inflation, sway bars if equipped.
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I'm curious what it felt like with to much weight on the front axle? I have not towed yet but set up my WDH so that the front of the truck settled 1/4" from unloaded height and the rear settled 1". Hitched without the bars attached measurements were front rose 1/2" and back sagged 2".
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: Upstate NY
I'm curious what it felt like with to much weight on the front axle? I have not towed yet but set up my WDH so that the front of the truck settled 1/4" from unloaded height and the rear settled 1". Hitched without the bars attached measurements were front rose 1/2" and back sagged 2".
It felt a bit heavy steering but worse, the rear end felt like it was skating. Then there was the wet road where I had virtually no traction and after a major scare, stopped and set the bars correctly. I did that with a '73 Torino station wagon in the late 70's, not a pickup. The fix for the saggy rear on that car was a set of Monroe Load Levelers (which of course unloaded made the car look ridiculous jacked up).
It sounds like you may be on the mark or very close for your setup as long as the TT is pretty much level
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