Towing a Triler
#1
Towing a Triler
I have a 2001 F250 4X4 short bed crew cab. I just bought a 24' travel trailer that lists a GVWR of 7320 pounds. I have the factory installed tow package and just had the electric trailer brake installed. Do I need sway bars? I don't plan long trips, usually about 100 miles.
#2
Are you talking sway control devices for the torsion weight transfer bars?
You may need the torsion weight transfer bars. Your tongue weight will probably be in the the 7-900# area and your hitch receiver is probably rated at 500# without the bars and 1500# with bars. The standard torsion bars do help with some sway control. Equalizer has sway control built into their system. the upper end Reese has built in sway control also. You can add sway control devices to most any system.
Good luck
You may need the torsion weight transfer bars. Your tongue weight will probably be in the the 7-900# area and your hitch receiver is probably rated at 500# without the bars and 1500# with bars. The standard torsion bars do help with some sway control. Equalizer has sway control built into their system. the upper end Reese has built in sway control also. You can add sway control devices to most any system.
Good luck
#3
#4
#5
For a trailer of that size, the anti-sway may not be necessary, but wouldn't hurt. Weight distribution is highly recommended. I have just the weight distribution, and as noted above, it provides a little bit of sway control, but if you're in an area where it tends to be windy, or big trucks and such passing you, you will probably want to invest in a sway control as well.
#6
Towing a Trailer
I towed a 24' pull behind travel trailer for over 50,000 miles from 2000 - 2006. I would never leave without torsion bars or the sway bar. The torsion bars distribute the load between the front wheels and the rear wheels so you are driving roughly on a flat plane. The difference between having the torsion bars and not is huge.
The sway bar really only comes in play when you have a swaying problem caused by wet roads, wind, rough roads and passing trucks. Which means you really need this all the time. Both of these are essential if you want to keep your rig on the road.
Some guys who drive construction or car hauler trailers will perhaps disagree. But a travel trailer presents a much larger surface for the wind to impact and has a higher center of gravity.
That said, the most important thing from a safety standpoint on a travel trailer is to grease the wheel bearings about once a year or so. Some folks use EZ bearings with a nipple that allows you to put grease in under pressure to keep water out. This is a good idea for a boat trailer. However, the weak point is the inner seal. Yesterday, I greased our bearings on the current trailer, a fifth wheel. There was plenty of grease on the bearings, the bearings looked good but the grease was starting to seep under the seal. Down the road, if would have gotten on the brake shoes and that would have been another story.
Just one more thought. If you are going to sites without power (dry camping), change your 12 volt battery for two 6 volts golf cart batteries. It took me a year to figure this out. You'll get much more capacity from the golf cart batteries.
Good luck.
The sway bar really only comes in play when you have a swaying problem caused by wet roads, wind, rough roads and passing trucks. Which means you really need this all the time. Both of these are essential if you want to keep your rig on the road.
Some guys who drive construction or car hauler trailers will perhaps disagree. But a travel trailer presents a much larger surface for the wind to impact and has a higher center of gravity.
That said, the most important thing from a safety standpoint on a travel trailer is to grease the wheel bearings about once a year or so. Some folks use EZ bearings with a nipple that allows you to put grease in under pressure to keep water out. This is a good idea for a boat trailer. However, the weak point is the inner seal. Yesterday, I greased our bearings on the current trailer, a fifth wheel. There was plenty of grease on the bearings, the bearings looked good but the grease was starting to seep under the seal. Down the road, if would have gotten on the brake shoes and that would have been another story.
Just one more thought. If you are going to sites without power (dry camping), change your 12 volt battery for two 6 volts golf cart batteries. It took me a year to figure this out. You'll get much more capacity from the golf cart batteries.
Good luck.
#7
Hey TexasBob, what are you using to tow with? I go to a lot of races and of course NASCAR at TMS. I just got back from going to the INDY race at Texas Motor Speedway. I have a 07 F-250, XLT, FX4, 16,000 miles with all the towing options plus camper package. I weighed out with TT and Truck, loaded with water, empty grays and blacks, and I had all the stuff that you take to a NASCAR or INDY race, you know, grills, lumber, lots of beer and all the other stuff. I weighed it in @ 15,550 lbs. I traveled 240 miles round trip, traveled at 65-70 on I-35, and the truck cruised like a charm (even used cruise control). Now RPM's stayed at 3 grand or higer, and I had a 15 mph head wind both ways and it was 95 degrees. 8 mpg was my average and I was satisfied with that. I do not have sway bars, never had a problem, the hitch is a "weight distrubution hitch". I made sure I had 75 psi in the tires and 65 in the TT. From what I am seeing here, the concensus is that sway bars are highly reccommended.
I was just curious on what problems you have run into without the bars?
Oh BTW, I agree on the Golf cart batteries.
I was just curious on what problems you have run into without the bars?
Oh BTW, I agree on the Golf cart batteries.
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