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Metal twister In case you're wondering what the inside baseball is about, Gaugepro is notorious for railing against DP Tuner - back when he was known as CSIPSD on this forum. There are several others that are in his camp, but there will not be an open discussion about that here. If you are on the non-mobile web site, please allow your eyes to drift above the thread title and to the right.
It's not like that old CSIPSD fellow had a vendetta against Jody or anything. He was equally vocal about another well known tuner (who isn't active here at FTE) I believe it was the latter encounter that made him start running dual EGT gauges.
Front air bags.
Leveling kit blocks on a 2wd.
CCV mod.
Slamming on the brakes with a 2,000 lb load of steel in the bed that bent the front panel of the bed and broke the connections at the corners which ended up causing my bed to develop cracks in it.
Allow people who are not well experienced with loading heavy objects that gross 5K or so into the bed, front of bed will forever be bent touching the cab...and it was one of those high volume water pumps you typically find at construction sites …
CCV mod, boost fooler, 8" lift on 38x15s mud grapplers and 3:73 gears, 6637, air intake heater delete, 50 cent mod (would have bought improved gaskets), my tuner, zoodad mod (i didn't do but seemed like a waste), foil delete on the intercooler pipe - glad I did because I noticed the power steering square nut was wearing a hole in it and fortunately I can weld aluminum but the foil delete was pointless.
Not replacing my hpop lines sooner! This is me dead on the road! The last picture shows how much oil made its way to the tailgate... those are my little tires too they were only 36x14.5s
Reading all the replies, I will say there are a couple of things to do at this age that are not mods: High Pressure Oil lines to the head, and Power Steering high pressure hose. The fail, they spew fluid everywhere, and they add credence to the acronym Found On Road Dead.
As for the "lift"... I did one mod that worked out quite well, which could be considered a lift - of sorts. Many 4X4 trucks have a rather poorly-performing spring pack in the nose - where the springs are split:
These things were terrible-bouncy at 220K miles (when I bought the truck). Beverage lids were mandatory, lest I change the color of the overhead to coffee mocha and wear rain gear. I installed X-code springs (I suspect almost any other code is better than the original) and the ride was so much better that I stopped wincing when a bump approached. The net result was a 2-inch gain in elevation in the nose, but careful measurements showed this new height to be stock height from the factory.
I'm interested in knowing that as well - 214K, with the majority over washboard/chuck holed roads at volunteer firefighter response speeds.
If you volunteer do you get to go as fast as the paid Fire fighter? That alone might be a good enough reason to volunteer! I know, I know, back on topic!
Cody and I tinkered with this question, and he measured several 7.3L-era Superduties in his shop. The average measurement was about 4" to the bump stops, where Stinky was sagging 1.5" below the average with 2 1/2" to the bump stops. New springs worked out to 4 1/2" to the bump stops, which is consistent with the tallest SD Cody measured. In a word... I was bottoming-out on pavement.
Cody and I tinkered with this question, and he measured several 7.3L-era Superduties in his shop. The average measurement was about 4" to the bump stops, where Stinky was sagging 1.5" below the average with 2 1/2" to the bump stops. New springs worked out to 4 1/2" to the bump stops, which is consistent with the tallest SD Cody measured. In a word... I was bottoming-out on pavement.
My 2000 has the same style front springs as the ones you replaced in your 2000. I currently find the gap between the bottom of the bump stop and the top of the spring cap casting to be 3 3/4".
Note that this is not to the springs themselves, but to the cap casting, where I assume that you and Cody also measured, as that is what makes contact with the bump stop.
Also note that this measurement largely depends on the load in the back of the truck. A heavier load in back will, like a see-saw, increase the gap between the front bumpstop and casting. Likewise, an empty load in the back of the truck will teeter toter the weight balance between axles to reduce the gap between the front bump stop and the casting.
So when comparing measurements between trucks, some consideration must be given to the state of loading of the trucks measured and compared. To really get nitty gritty, the wheelbase will also make a difference as to the rate of effect a load in back will have on the bumpstop to cap gap in front.
I know you already know this, but it wasn't mentioned - so I'm pointing this out to the readers:
The see-saw effect depends on where in the bed the load is applied. Load aft of the axle or hook up to a trailer with a heavy tongue and the see-saw effect takes place. Loads centered with the back axle have little effect on the front axle in the driveway. Loads with the center of gravity forward of the back axle contribute to the loading of the front axle.
Transmission bypass delete. In theory it removes a possible problem (a failed bypass returns hot fluid to trans causing overheating) but deleting it the possible problem becomes lack of fluid flow from clogged trans cooler, resulting in rapid trans failure. That's a bigger problem than just running hot.
What is clogging the trans cooler? What is the trans filter doing?
I know, I know, back on topic! 
What is the trans filter doing?
