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I messed up. I thought that when it came time to reassemble the shift linkage for my three-speed column shifter, that I would find an exploded view diagram or photo that would give me some direction. So far no luck. This is how I think it's supposed to go:
1) The longer of the two cast arms on the column is 1st and rev and is at the top of the two arms. The shorter column arm is mounted below and goes to 2nd & 3rd
2) The bent steel arm mounted to the transmission which has the least offset bend goes to 1st & rev and is at the rear of the transmission. The bent steel arm w/ the bigger offset is 2nd & 3rd and at the front of the transmission.
1) Yes
2) Yes, if I understand your description correctly. See pic below
Thanks for responding. I've got different looking parts. These are the arms that mount to the column. I think I had them in upside down, but I'm not sure. I had the shorter arm on top, so that the metal sleeve acted like a "roof" to keep grunk away from the pin that actuates the two levers. But, some drawings I've seen suggest that the shorter arm should be at the bottom. Also, the grease fitting is not as readily accessible as I remember with the short arm on top. But then, it's been quite a while since I lubed this truck up.
As far as the arms that mount to the transmission go, am I correct in thinking that 1st and reverse are located toward the rear? If I was certain of that, then I think I can figure the rest out.
Thank you. I switched top and bottom column arms, and, knowing that the rearmost arm at the transmission is 1st & REV, I got it. Now I'm on to something completely different: I filled the radiator with water so I could do a test start of the motor. Water started leaking out from somewhere around the water pump. It is a brand new pump, but it's been sitting mounted to the engine for about ten years or more. Is some sort of seal in there that could have dried out while it sat? It may be leaking around the gasket, which is easy enough to deal with. But, maybe it was leaking out one of those holes on the top and bottom of the pump housing. It was hard to tell. I have never learned what those holes were for. When the truck was a daily driver, I used to see some coolant sitting in the top hole, but I never had a problem with leaks.
I have had good luck simply running an engine with a brand new leaking pump. The sealing surface on the cast iron can get a small amount of surface rust under the seal. Running the engine cleans that up and the seal seals.
I have had good luck simply running an engine with a brand new leaking pump. The sealing surface on the cast iron can get a small amount of surface rust under the seal. Running the engine cleans that up and the seal seals.
Give it a try. The 215 in my 53 sedan had a small leak right after the engine was rebuilt. Running the engine and thermal cycling everything took care of the problem.
Also, it has the benefit of being pretty affordable.
Did you put new bushings in your shifter arms? I think mine are shot. My 54 shifts easily but when in third the shift lever is almost on my knee. I have to lift it up to lift my leg to apply the brake. Would old worn out bushings do this?
Did you put new bushings in your shifter arms? I think mine are shot. My 54 shifts easily but when in third the shift lever is almost on my knee. I have to lift it up to lift my leg to apply the brake. Would old worn out bushings do this?
No, my bushings had some wear but they weren't too bad. It didn't look to me that worn bushings would account for what you describe. When I was reinstalling my linkage rods, I noticed that they can be adjusted in away that centers the shift lever. I think that if the lever is to low at third gear, increasing the distance between rod pivot points will push the shift lever upwards. The adjustment capacity of the rod length looks to be measurable in inches. Way more than worn bushings could affect rod length.
A little slop in the bushings adds up to a lot of play at the lever. The shifter does get pretty low in 3rd.
You have to adjust both shifter rods so that neutral is in the same place on each, or you'll end up being unable to get out of whatever gear you're in. JVMCC is correct, to raise the lever you want to lengthen the rods.
It really helps to have 2 people. Put the trans in neutral. Adjust the 2-3 rod to where you want it. Hold the column shift lever in neutral in the 2-3 gate, and adjust the 1-R rod until you can move the column shifter between the 1-R and 2-3 gates in neutral without any hang-ups, you're all set. Test it around the neighborhood thoroughly so you don't end up laying under it at a stoplight, trying to get it out of gear.
Thanks Ross. Mac's sells the repair kit for only $11.99.
See "3twinridges" build thread (or maybe it's the steering box rebuild thread?), as he shows the only problem with the kit is setting the ferrules. An alternative I went with is spherical rod ends.
I buggered the first one and had to dremel the imperfections out for smooth shifting. The other three I used a ball bearing to set the lip bend then used a brass punch to lay it flat. Not as nice as factory but it will do. I also found out that the trans clevis's have a wave washer behind them to help keep them a little tighter.
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I thought that when it came time to reassemble the shift linkage for my three-speed column shifter, that I would find an exploded view diagram or photo that would give me some direction. So far no luck. This is how I think it's supposed to go:
