Help! 3oT set up
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Help! 3oT set up
That’s how it’s currenrly set up. And the shift linkages are parallel top one (longer) to the rear of tranny and bottom (shorter) to the front.
Hey Guys, so I took a apart the steering column to replace those plastic washers/insulators for the shift arms. I rebuilt it back to what it was before I took it apart. But the lower arm rubs on the upper linkage. Bushings aren’t the problem.
Could any take pictures of how it is set up on your Trucks? I found one diagram but it has conflicting pictures for the same year and tranny set up.
Pictures of how the arms are oriented on the column, the orientation and path of the shift links too. That would be greatly appreciated
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Appreciate it!
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your longer arm appears to be fairly thick closer to the column, especially if you compare to other pictures posted
It also looks like the spacer in between is sitting in a groove? May be the angle of your photo
if you look at other photos the arms appear flat with no groove
Sure you got the spacers in right order?
Here is a picture of what it should look like
http://www.fordification.com/tech/images/3spd_04.jpg
It also looks like the spacer in between is sitting in a groove? May be the angle of your photo
if you look at other photos the arms appear flat with no groove
Sure you got the spacers in right order?
Here is a picture of what it should look like
http://www.fordification.com/tech/images/3spd_04.jpg
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verify you have the down rods in the right place.
in your picture they look like they cross?
They should be side by side as in other posted pics
the lever closest to firewall essentially goes straight down to trans lever closest to engine
the bottom rod runs parallel to top rod, down towards trans then crosses over top rod. Mine crosses close to the trans. .
if you look at your pic it looks like it crosses under, which it probably causing your bind and not engaging the trans
Johns 1st pic is what I am talking about. Very different from how your pic shows
in your picture they look like they cross?
They should be side by side as in other posted pics
the lever closest to firewall essentially goes straight down to trans lever closest to engine
the bottom rod runs parallel to top rod, down towards trans then crosses over top rod. Mine crosses close to the trans. .
if you look at your pic it looks like it crosses under, which it probably causing your bind and not engaging the trans
Johns 1st pic is what I am talking about. Very different from how your pic shows
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Thank you
verify you have the down rods in the right place.
in your picture they look like they cross?
They should be side by side as in other posted pics
the lever closest to firewall essentially goes straight down to trans lever closest to engine
the bottom rod runs parallel to top rod, down towards trans then crosses over top rod. Mine crosses close to the trans. .
if you look at your pic it looks like it crosses under, which it probably causing your bind and not engaging the trans
Johns 1st pic is what I am talking about. Very different from how your pic shows
in your picture they look like they cross?
They should be side by side as in other posted pics
the lever closest to firewall essentially goes straight down to trans lever closest to engine
the bottom rod runs parallel to top rod, down towards trans then crosses over top rod. Mine crosses close to the trans. .
if you look at your pic it looks like it crosses under, which it probably causing your bind and not engaging the trans
Johns 1st pic is what I am talking about. Very different from how your pic shows
Ill look into that when I get off work tonight. From what I could find previously in the past online some diagrams for same truck and tranny had them parallel and never crossing and on the same page with the same stuff it also said that it crosses. Just got confusing. I appreciate it and will look into it!
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Fixed the linkage binding BUT....
So I fixed the linkage binding I still can’t engage 2&3rd from inside the truck. I put those plastic washers and spacer in correctly but it feels like somethings in the way. I don’t know how to describe it but I don’t have full travel in the shift lever in the 2/3 side. And sometimes it takes a ton of wiggling to get it back into 1/R. I didn’t notice anything missing atleast to my knowledge. I can’t figure out the problem....
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if you rebuilt the column with new spacers etc, then you changed the length of the rods one way or the other.
did you go through the process of adjusting them per Ford instructions, as it is not mentioned in your initial write up
when I did mine, I followed the initial adjustment, but then had to tweak it as I was having similar problem
1. Place in Neutral and insert gauge pin 3/16 ( i used a drill bit) through the shift levers and through the bump out tube on side of column (johns picture shows the hole on the lever)
2. if the shift rods at the trans are equipped with threaded sleeves, adjust the sleeves so that they enter the shift levers on the trans easily, while in neutral. now lengthen the rods seven turns of the sleeves and insert back into the shift levers at the trans
3. if the shift rods are slotted, loosen the attaching nut, make sure the trans levers are in neutral, then retighten the attaching nuts
4. remove the gauge pin and check the operation of the linkage
I followed the above direction, but then adjusted a little more, as mine was not going into 3rd consistently
did you go through the process of adjusting them per Ford instructions, as it is not mentioned in your initial write up
when I did mine, I followed the initial adjustment, but then had to tweak it as I was having similar problem
1. Place in Neutral and insert gauge pin 3/16 ( i used a drill bit) through the shift levers and through the bump out tube on side of column (johns picture shows the hole on the lever)
2. if the shift rods at the trans are equipped with threaded sleeves, adjust the sleeves so that they enter the shift levers on the trans easily, while in neutral. now lengthen the rods seven turns of the sleeves and insert back into the shift levers at the trans
3. if the shift rods are slotted, loosen the attaching nut, make sure the trans levers are in neutral, then retighten the attaching nuts
4. remove the gauge pin and check the operation of the linkage
I followed the above direction, but then adjusted a little more, as mine was not going into 3rd consistently
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Thanks! I’ll try that
if you rebuilt the column with new spacers etc, then you changed the length of the rods one way or the other.
did you go through the process of adjusting them per Ford instructions, as it is not mentioned in your initial write up
when I did mine, I followed the initial adjustment, but then had to tweak it as I was having similar problem
1. Place in Neutral and insert gauge pin 3/16 ( i used a drill bit) through the shift levers and through the bump out tube on side of column (johns picture shows the hole on the lever)
2. if the shift rods at the trans are equipped with threaded sleeves, adjust the sleeves so that they enter the shift levers on the trans easily, while in neutral. now lengthen the rods seven turns of the sleeves and insert back into the shift levers at the trans
3. if the shift rods are slotted, loosen the attaching nut, make sure the trans levers are in neutral, then retighten the attaching nuts
4. remove the gauge pin and check the operation of the linkage
I followed the above direction, but then adjusted a little more, as mine was not going into 3rd consistently
did you go through the process of adjusting them per Ford instructions, as it is not mentioned in your initial write up
when I did mine, I followed the initial adjustment, but then had to tweak it as I was having similar problem
1. Place in Neutral and insert gauge pin 3/16 ( i used a drill bit) through the shift levers and through the bump out tube on side of column (johns picture shows the hole on the lever)
2. if the shift rods at the trans are equipped with threaded sleeves, adjust the sleeves so that they enter the shift levers on the trans easily, while in neutral. now lengthen the rods seven turns of the sleeves and insert back into the shift levers at the trans
3. if the shift rods are slotted, loosen the attaching nut, make sure the trans levers are in neutral, then retighten the attaching nuts
4. remove the gauge pin and check the operation of the linkage
I followed the above direction, but then adjusted a little more, as mine was not going into 3rd consistently
I’ll give that a shot.
I also rewatched the column rebuild video I found just to see if I forgot something somehow. And that spacer between the shift arms In the column, he rotated it and I guess I never did. He said you need to rotate it to lock it in position or something. Seems to make sense because currently mine likes to stick to the upper shift link and maybe that might cause those tabs to not be able to slide past it and into the shift lever. Because if I keep playing with it it eventually works into gear past a soft binding.
So so I’ll look into both now. I appreciate it.
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https://www.fordification.com/tech/3spd-column_01.htm
I had the same problem on my 65 and watched the same video, which steered me wrong. I dont know, but that was a 68, which could be reason
I read the above Fordification write up and thought the same thing and attempted like crazy to turn it 90 degrees after tube was in. The video also shows this as well
I put back together without turning 90 and took it to a local shop that specialized in classics
I told him that I saw the video of having to turn it 90 and he looked at my assembly and mounted it to his bench and ran through the shift pattern several times and it worked like it should.
He said I had it right from the start and was not aware of having to turn the washer 90 after tube was inserted
I installed and have been driving it for about 1 year now with no problems
I went back to article and realized it said to turn it 90 in order to install the washer, then rotate it back 90, but did not say to turn it back once the tube was in. It explains to disassemble it you pull tube out which will release the shifter arms and then rotate the thick washer to get it out. Nothing about rotating it prior to pulling tube out.
Try the rod adjustment, as this may be the problem
Good Luck
I had the same problem on my 65 and watched the same video, which steered me wrong. I dont know, but that was a 68, which could be reason
I read the above Fordification write up and thought the same thing and attempted like crazy to turn it 90 degrees after tube was in. The video also shows this as well
I put back together without turning 90 and took it to a local shop that specialized in classics
I told him that I saw the video of having to turn it 90 and he looked at my assembly and mounted it to his bench and ran through the shift pattern several times and it worked like it should.
He said I had it right from the start and was not aware of having to turn the washer 90 after tube was inserted
I installed and have been driving it for about 1 year now with no problems
I went back to article and realized it said to turn it 90 in order to install the washer, then rotate it back 90, but did not say to turn it back once the tube was in. It explains to disassemble it you pull tube out which will release the shifter arms and then rotate the thick washer to get it out. Nothing about rotating it prior to pulling tube out.
Try the rod adjustment, as this may be the problem
Good Luck
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