New guy here. I bought some ibeams with spindles and radius arms to do a disc brake conversion on my 66 f100. I wish I had looked closer at the parts before I purchased them. All is OK except the shaft where the radius arm bushings go is very worn. I'd like to swap the radius arms from my 66 drum setup to the 1975 ibeams. Does anyone know if the arms interchange? Or, it appears I could just swap the 1975 spindles on to my 1966 ibeams. I've done a lot of reading on the disc brake conversion, but i'd really appreciate the knowledge of an experienced member.

Thanks!

 

O.K. USE YOUR RAD ARMS WITH THE LATER I BEAMS. DO IT PROPERLY WITH ALL NEW BUSHES, KING PINS. WHEEL ALIGNMENT IS A MUST DO. DUAL MASTER AND PROP VALVE, STEERS AND STOPS GOOD AS NEW. WELL '75 F SERIES NEW.

 

a-v-8-r Welcome to and the Slicks Forum.

Have you done any swapping yet? I pulled a 76 beside my 66, dropped the I-beam set from the 76 slid it under my 66 and bolted it in. Drove it for about 50,000 miles before someone wanted it more than me. Put new rubber on it and bolt it up.


John

 

When I converted my 65 to disk brakes, I left everything stock on the 65.

I pulled the king pin, slid in the disk spindle, new king pin, done.

Hope this helps.

-Aaron

 

Thanks for the replies! It looks like swapping the spindles from the 75 i-beams to the 66 i-beams is the way to go. Less work than swapping i-beams and dealing with that radius arm to i-beam bolt that's torqued to 300 ft/lb.

 

I say it's easier to swap the whole set, you likely can get it bolted up before you get the king pins done both sides. And you have a matched set.


John

 

To answer the question, 65 rad arms can be used on later I beams. Original concern was worn rad arm, problem won't be solved just swapping in disc stub axles. Do the job once, do it right.

 

John, it sure would be easier. That was my plan until I noticed that the radius arm bushing shafts (not the bushing, the actual metal shaft where the bushings mount) on the radius arms of the donor parts I bought were badly worn. It looks like someone drove the donor truck with bad bushings for years. I didn't notice this when I bought the parts. My fault that I didn't notice! My 1966 I-beams and radius arms are in good shape. So, I'm left with either putting the 1975 spindles on my 1966 I beams. Or, putting my 1966 radius arms on the 1975 I-beams. I wasn't planning on this, but it's the only way to get one set of "good" parts. Since I was going to replace the kingpins anyway, I figure it's easiest to put the 1975 spindles on my 1966 I-beams.
As for changing the kingpins, that fun has already begun. Took of the retaining caps, removed the retaining pin, whacked with large hammer and drift, they didn't budge. Put the spindles in my 12 ton shop press. They still didn't budge. Looks like the local machine shop is going to inherit my frozen kingpins. I need the new bushings reamed anyway. Sometimes it's better to farm out the frustration!

 

I guess I never bought a doner that was beat up that bad.


John

 

Well, John, I've been working on cars for 40 years, but this is my first restoration attempt. I'm learning things. Unfortunately this time it was the hard way. Note to self, inspect used parts carefully before purchasing. As for the kingpins, I decided I'm older and more stubborn so I gave it another shot today. After a bunch more heat (I was careful not to mess with the temper of the metal), generous application of PB Blaster, and 30 minutes of continuous pressure each in the shop press, they finally came out. Talk about a LOUD pop when they finally released! There's absolutely NO way those would have come out with a hammer and drift as some have suggested. Since the truck I am restoring was well taken care of, I'm hoping those kingpins come out a little easier.

Curt

 

Curt, That is zackly why I stick to my story, I have seen guys beat on a king pin for half a day or more. I got donors that had a blown engine but was lucky not to have gotten one abused like yours. One can lift the front wheel and check for king pin wear by pulling on the tire. I usually went for the I-Beams, power steering, engine, tranny, wind shield wiper motor all in one swap.

Hope you get it all worked out.

John