I have read the tech articles and other threads about the swap, but have a few simple questions.

I am planning on using just the spindles (not beams or radius arms) from a '77 in the junkyard. What kingpins will I need? those to match the spindles or the beams? (i.e.- 1965 or 1977)

It looks like the proportioning valve is bolted to a bracket on top of the gearbox of the '77, Is that normal?

That's all for now!

Thanks,

SKY

 

Sky, It's your call, but I would get the front wheels off the ground on the donor and check for top to bottom play. If it is tight, you could better off swapping the complete I-beams. Many times the radius arm rubber needs changing and you will will be well on the way to make a complete swap.

Yes the p valve bolts to the top of the steering gear.



John

 

If you have a '65 truck, you need to use '65 king pins - the banjo bolt slot is located differently.
If you have a '66 truck, you can use either '66 or donor year king pins.
The '66 king pins are 1/8 inch shorter overall than the '76 king pins out of the donor truck I used. The slot was in the same location, which meant the pin was 1/16th of an inch shorter at the top and bottom - very insignificant.

Up to '77 or '78 the proportioning valve was located on a bracket above the PS gearbox; later it was located on the backside of the crossmember under the engine. I put mine there mostly because the new set of brake lines I ordered ended up putting it there. I like it there, as it will be out of the way if I need to do repairs and change plugs.

 

I also put mine on the backside of the engine crossmember. Less clutter up in the engine bay IMO. I even used an existing hole to secure it (one bolt works fine once the lines are all hooked up).

 

I'm plumbing mine this weekend. I boxed in a section of the frame before the transmission cross member and drlled and welded nuts to the backside to hold my proportioning valve, less stuff in the way in the engine bay, and nearly a straight shot to the rear and drivers front.

 

You know what John, I think I will just grab everything and make life a little easier. Here's the reason I wasn't going to...I am driving with the parts from Utah to Tennessee, where I will have just a week or so to make the swap before I move with the truck. So I wanted to prep as much as I could before I got there. Just thought it would be easier to only carry spindles, but I think in the long run, the entire swap will pay off (and be easier).

Will I need the springs then from the donor?

Thanks for the replies!

Sky

 

Sky, I am going to reply with WAIT. You are going to be crunched on time and if something doesn't go right, it could throw you into a tailspin. Go to Tenn. with the truck and find a donor there. Murphy's Law could rain on your party big time.

I have seen it happen too many times.



John

 

Took the bracket that mounts to the steering box, don't find it gets in the way that much, sets beneath the MC and it's a short distance for the lines.

 

If you follow along on my site f100discs you'll see that the donor springs did not work. Also, the I beams did not swap for me but I explain how to measure the arc of them to determine if they are the same before you go to the trouble. I found installing the whole beams to be a colossal PITA as I didn't seperate the radius arms (bolts didn't really want to let loose). However, the kingpins can also put up a big fight (though did not in my case) so there are many potential pitfalls that may slow you down. Also remember there is a lot of time consumed by fabricating the brake lines until you get them right, flare them, etc. Plan accordingly.

 

Dwight, Let's not start a peeing contest here. I am happy that you wrote an article that has good information and have a preferred method to recommend.

When I did the conversion, I pulled the two trucks side by side, dropped the beams from under the 66 and drug them to the side. We then dropped the complete setup including coils from under the donor, over to my 66 and bolted them back up. Everything fit and has worked for over 7 years.

I don't advocate it on the forum but I used some of the donors brake plumbing that is still holding.

I don't drive the truck everyday, but have about 35,000 miles on the install.

This method will work!


John

 

Not arguing John, just stating my opinion and experience. I did not at all enjoy doing the entire beams and would not do it again given the chance. For me, the spindle swap is easier. That doesn't mean it's the best way to go for anyone else. It seems every time this subject comes up you think I'm disagreeing with you but that's not the case. I just believe there are two ways (at least) one can tackle this job and each has it's pros and cons.

 

Now you guys got me gun-shy!

Ok, I thought I had this all thought through, but I guess I should keep considering my options. I've spent the last 7 years at college, 2000 miles from my house (and truck), trying to be patient and wait until I had a little money to really dig into the project. I have some money set aside, but now I am going to law school at the University of Tennessee. I am planning on renting a place with a garage, so I guess I could just trailer it out there and work on it as a stress reliever.

I'll be back.

Sky

 

Every time that I read a post here where someone has issues putting a set back under his truck it was when they took it all apart, or got a part from here or there.
I advocate the total swap because there is less chance for screwup to the unskilled parts swapper. No beams installed upside down or on the wrong side this way. KISS


Sky finish law school, then tackle the truck. It'll drive with drum brakes.



John

 

Sky - I just finished this upgrade on my 66 F250 2WD with auto transmission and I added powersteering as well. I work about 70 hours a week so the time I had available to work on the project was spread out over 9 months. I also consider myself to be a rookie at classic restorations. At any rate, since you will be in school, and I assume working as well, I advise taking pictures and making shetches of both setups as you go through the whole process as your memory may not recall some finer details that seem obvious when you disassemble things. I did not take pics and a few times I wish I had. I don't know if you are going to power steering or not. If so, I found that shortening and reassembling the 66 steering column to accomodate the ford PS (versus bendix) gearbox to be difficult. There are other solutions to the PS upgrade that others here can speak to. It took me a while to do the brake lines as well and I've done them before on other vehicles. Use the old lines as templates. I found this site to be very helpful in saving me time, money and frustration. Learn as much as you can from others experiences before you start. Bottom line is, as with most first time mechanical projects, it will very likely take you a lot longer than you think. So plan with that in mind. Good luck.

 

Schuyles



You may want to get the ( Wide Brake pedel ) also ,even if you think you don't want it now you

may want it later ! It is easy to install . As for the ( P.valve ) I did not use the one on the steering

box , I thought it was to close to the ( Headers ) !

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-question.html







Wally Womack