engine dies occasionally on deceleration
Thanks
Often a loose injector can have a characteristic clacking noise. Lack of engine power can be a sign of loose injectors or a worn out IPR-injection pressure regulator.
If anybody in the history of the truck has pulled an injector for any reason (swap, replace O-rings, inspect, etc...), then the odds of a loose injector go up exponentially. The most common practices that diminish the odds of success are...
- Re-using the tired injector bolts that have been torqued, strained, and heat-treated for hundreds of thousands of miles - then pulled and re-torqued.
- Using the wrong torque wrench, an inaccurate one, or improper storage of any torque wrench (not resetting to zero for storage) will corrupt the readings. The ft/lb wrench is not sensitive enough, and many inexpensive in/lb wrenches are not accurate enough.
- Improper treatment of the blind hole for the injector bolt. Not cleaning the hole or using too much lube or Loc-Tite can create a hydrolock condition when torquing the bolt.
- Knowing the specs and of the problem, but overtorquing to compensate.
- Not warming the engine to full temp, then shutting down to "hot torque" the bolts before putting the valve covers back on. This one is controversial - many "experts" will say something along the lines of "I've torqued plenty of injectors without hot-torquing and I've never had an issue. That doesn't eliminate the possibility they are lucky, many others are unlucky, they have better torque wrenches, or the "experts" expect more cackle from the engine they are fine with it.
It wasn't until the age of the fleet required many injector repairs/swaps that the torque problem came to light. I have gone so far as to buy a digital torque adapter (of good quality for about 50 bucks) to verify the settings on my torque wrench, and found every one of my wrenches to be off (high or low) by as much as 15 in/lbs. To make things even more frustrating, the wrenches are never consistent - I have to verify the torque every time I set them. Such is the way with a light torque setting on a wrench that costs less than $500.
Loose injector symptoms: Excessive cackle for sure, then it gets worse as the injector works its way loose even further. Louder cackle, air in fuel, air in oil, mixing oil into fuel, the dreaded "banging" and a miss, followed closely by the uber-dreaded damaged cup. The damaged cup puts fuel in the coolant, and a loose stick with a damaged cup puts combustion gasses in the coolant.
The good news is cups can be replaced with the engine in the truck (I don't know about vans), but it's a big job that takes a minimum of two days (sealant needs to dry before testing for leaks). Obviously - checking the injector torque is a lesser evil here.
I had to take the passenger side air intake off so while I was there I rechecked the wires going to the injectors, and I must have found one that was loose this time because its running good now. Its not dying anymore and the performance is really good. So at this point it is fixed, but if it starts to die again I know where to go to fix it.
Tugly thank you for you posts, I will definitely check the torque on the injectors to make sure they are correct. I will need to find a good torque wrench first.
Thanks again everyone.







