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1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

Standard Jack Stands Under Frame?

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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 10:37 AM
  #16  
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New 4 post 8000# For $2800
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/tld/5585255979.html This one includes installation

Used 2 post for $600
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/tls/5577183441.html

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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 02:52 PM
  #17  
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Well I went ahead and sprung for the 12 ton stands. Any special advice that might be helpful when using them besides keep your fingers out of the way when pulling the lever to drop them down..?

The plan is to do the rear first. I will use my shorter stands on the front (the stands under the rear axle in the pic) and put the 12 ton stands under the frame in front of the rear wheels. I'll also leave a jack under the front end.

When done with the rear, Ill put the shorter stands under the rear axle like in the pic and the 12 ton stands under the frame behind the front wheels.. Also leaving a floor jack under the center of the rear axle.

Does that sound ok?

the work will be done on level concrete..

thanks
Anna
 
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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 05:07 PM
  #18  
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I did total spring replacement all four corners with a lot less.


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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 08:23 PM
  #19  
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Well a friend in the neighborhood wants to take her family on weekend trip to the mountains. I told them that I couldn't take them till I had the suspension fixed so now I have 2 strong volunteers who have done some light mechanic work.. I figured that is a good deal.. So After researching how different folks removed the spring bushings and problems they ran across, I thought I would be ready with several different plan B's..

there is a complication though.. The front spring eyelets look fairly simple. I can take out both bolts and drop the axle down so both springs clear the frame to remove and install the bushings. The rear is going to be a bit more difficult. On the rear the spring eyelets are above the shackle brackets that are riveted to the frame. With the van on the ground, the rear spring eyelets are above and behind the mounting bracket. I am not sure once the weight is off the axle and springs, if the springs will clear the bracket so the springs can drop down past the bracket.
If they don't, then i guess I will have to push the axle forward 2 or 3 inches so the rear eyelets will clear the brackets and drop down so i can access the bushings..

Here is the closest pic I can find to mine.. . I cant go up with the spring to remove the bushing because of the fuel tank. That pic may be with the weight off the wheels because on my van with it on the ground, the springs are farther back over mounting bracket

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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 09:21 PM
  #20  
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You may have to remove the springs. Which means unbolting the spring "U" bolts from the axle. Then the spring is free to be moved sideways.

Are these original springs? If so I would question why are just the bushings being replaced and not the entire spring set?
Nearly 30 year old springs are not the same any more.

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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 09:49 PM
  #21  
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When I replace the front springs, I may very well find that the front end is higher then the back... Right now the back is higher then the front. The van only has 107k on it and had sat for nearly 15 years so the springs themselves have not seen a lot of mileage bouncing up and down. When I go over a medium to large speed breaker hump, I always go slow, but I can hear a clank like sound. Sometimes when i just start up the hump and as I drop off of it. So something is loose back there. I can see no signs of the U-bolts loose or moving and none of the springs appear to be broken. all of the shackle frame mounts are tight too. The only thing I can think of that might cause the noise is the bushings..
My GMC G2500 had a negative arch in the springs on it. This van still has a positive arch on the springs so I hadn't considered changing them till you mentioned it..

After typing my last post I got to thinking if I dropped the driveshaft, remove the shocks, remove the front spring bolts while the axle is supported on stands and the jack, I should be able to push the whole axle forward till the shackles rotate forward. Then the springs would clear the brackets. I could leave one side bolted in to help keep the axle from shifting around.

The brake line hose to the axle is flexible and has plenty of slack in it as well as it comes from the front. The E-brake cables have less slack but they too come from the front and I will be pushing the axle forward.. So maybe that will work..

I have read that sometimes when you replace front springs, that the front will be higher for a while till the springs settle in. What is your experience on that?
 
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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 10:26 PM
  #22  
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I tow several trailers one that is 7000 pounds. I replaced the rear springs first, one side at a time. (Came with new bushings and bolts from ATS) And I went to a rear spring that had just a little more weight capacity than the original HD springs because I tow. So the rear sat higher for a bit. I replaced the front as well with more or less stock springs. Sits a little higher in the rear and is hardly noticeable. The rear springs have been on for a year and the front for 6 months. Frankly the rear were more difficult to replace because the front spring bolts were rusted and difficult to remove.

I still have a sway bar bracket to repair to do in the front and then the van is up for sale. However the 100+ temp days around here is an obstacle for working on it.

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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 10:49 PM
  #23  
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If i tow anything with mine it will just be a lightweight trailer I plan to build for my canoe and some camping items. My 85 has a heavy duty hitch receiver and helper springs under it. I will probably move the hitch to the 88.

Mine doesn't have the factory sway bar brackets on it so I will probably go with the
Hellwig #7466 as it doesn't require the brackets. It will be interesting to feel the difference in ride after the work this weekend..
I hope it gets finished..

Ihave a friend who lives in Tucson and he gives me weekly reports.. He told me once that you hear people say it is not the same heat in AZ as in more humid areas but 110f is hot no matter where you live!

Heat is going to be my problem tomorrow as it will be in the mid 90s here. luckily we have one of those 3 or 4 foot fans and i will be putting the van in the carport with open on 2 sides so hopefully that will help.. I go into atrial fibrillation now and then and overheating and dehydration seems to trigger it. being in AZ I am sure you know about dehydration and its effects.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 10:59 PM
  #24  
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Yeah every one has water here. Normal humidity this time of year is 10%

Will be cooler tomorrow with a 20% chance of rain. 20% this time of year means no rain.

Even still it will be jump in the pool time no matter what the weather.

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Old Jun 11, 2016 | 01:34 AM
  #25  
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Late to the thread but I recently changed a rear end off an 06 E-350 with no lift. I used your regular height 2 ton jack stands but set them up on top of cut off railroad ties to get the height needed. Hydraulic floor jack under the pumpkin to get it up high. I guess they were 8x8 or 7x9 ties, everything all the way up and the stands set well in front of the rear end. I'm sure a similar process could be used to change spring/shackle hardware.

I never felt unsteadiness or remotely like the van was going to drop on me. Heavy job though. Nothing like unloading that 500lb Dana 60 from the back of a truck and wrestling it into place by hand... and of course pulling the old one and loading it into the truck when you're done.
 
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