1988 E150

i am hopefully going to be replacing the spring shackle bushings this weekend and wanted to know how you guys get the van up high enough to work under it if supporting it from the frame.. In the past u have always put stands under the rear axle or I-beams when working on it..
I am not removing the axle but rather dropping the front side then do the rear. I have 3 sets of standard stands but dont know if they will give me enough highth putting them under the frame.

Here is pics of the stands when i raised my 85 e150
<a href="http://s472.photobucket.com/user/Annaleigh_123/media/WP_20141030_17_28_14_Pro.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr88/Annaleigh_123/WP_20141030_17_28_14_Pro.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo WP_20141030_17_28_14_Pro.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s472.photobucket.com/user/Annaleigh_123/media/bb5d5656-da28-4366-8237-ab99046ec778.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr88/Annaleigh_123/bb5d5656-da28-4366-8237-ab99046ec778.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo bb5d5656-da28-4366-8237-ab99046ec778.jpg"/></a>

 

i suggest getting 6 or 12 ton jack stands to get good working height at there lowest possible working height... the bases are also much wider so more stable.

 

I would recommend OldBlackCat's suggestion if you want to support the van from the frame. I'm guessing you'll only need to raise one end for the spring shackle work? That would be the safer way.

A tool rental outfit somewhere local should have the larger stands---a good investment as the ones you show would be a bit shaky at the required working height.

 

I had my 83 E150 up on 4 jack stands at one point. If I recall, I put floor jack under differential and put both axle tubes on jack stands, then moved up to front. You can always lay spare rim/tires under frame in case. Even if it were to wiggle off jack stands, it won't fall through rim/tire combo. and with the tires still mounted on the rims, the loose wheels won't wiggle much. never ever ever use concrete block.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I will probably go with the HF 12 ton stands. I can use my smaller stands maybe middle ways just for extra safety..
the idea of the extra wheels underneath is another good safety idea. IF something did happen, at least it wouldn’t squash you flat!

I had another idea too... That carport my 85 van is sitting under drops off about 3 to 4 feet on the back side. I have never thought of doing this before, but if I were to back the van right next to the edge of the concrete (trying not do something stupid like oops, went too far), Once I got the stands under the van, it would be close to 5“ off the ground. Of course this would’t help with the front spring i-lets but would make the rear ones much easier to work with..

Am thinking the same concept might help with the front end work, at least from the front side.


Just another thought on the stand height. There is a retaining wall company close by. What if a person had some 2' pieces of cross ties. Put 2 of them together and nailed 2'x2' pieces of 3/4 plywood on each side and sat current stands on top of those wood blocks? Do you think that would be safe? I am guessing that wold be close to 10" of extra height.. perhaps the pieces of cross ties might even be free..

 

I have the orange heaviest they stock Harbor Freight jack stands, and I'm happy with them. You can cut pieces of about any wood to sit the jack on. You can put a piece of 4x4" on top of your floor jack head to get the vehicle up higher also. I have sure jacked up tons of things in my life and you're safe with about anything that isn't concrete casting. I have seen many folks use concrete blocks and cap blocks, but I have also known personally of a guy killed. I have also known of a guy wrestling a car on 4 jack stands on a slick garage floor and somehow he got crushed and wasn't found for couple days by a buddy. I have personally bent a metal drive on ramp by a 79 Buick Lesabre coming off the ramp at wrong angle (big tank), and I have warped up a fairly new set of those plastic drive on ramps that are 2 piece, where you can drive up, and then remove the lower drive ramp part for extra space to crawl around and work. But, I am a big fan of the big orange harbor freight jack stands, of cross ties, of mounted tires, and 4x4s and so forth.
I intend in my retirement home/garage to either have an old fashioned pit or a lift, though I am still half way afraid of hydraulics. I have also had a bottle jack all of a sudden turn loose on me before. BUT, if you'll put your floorjack under the differential and jack up both rear tires and put your jackstands under the axle tubes and then move to the front and put your jackstands under the frame on each side below the doors and then any wheels you remove, lay them on the sides of the van, under the frame (and if necessary put some 4x4s on top of them to close up the gap), you'll be fine. I save scrap 2x12s, 4x4s, and 2x4s for stuff just like this, sure comes in handy. I learned a lot of fear putting an automatic into a huge Buick Lesabre once by myself in a garage. Very intimidating to be in a dark garage, home alone, with a 2 ton tank above you on jackstands and your nose being only inches away and knowing the only "bounce" in the fall is not going to be the concrete or the huge buick. And the guys I knew that had passed from the previous mentioned situations kept running through my mind. A van is a big heavy thing, though thankfully, you'll be working in carport and a van is taller. Those things alone make you feel a little more positive about being under one. And I never go under a car without my cell in my pocket.

 

I replaced all of the springs on my '90 E 150. (Basically the same vehicle.) I did one corner at a time with only that corner in the air. The frame was supported with a jack stand not nearly as high as you have pictured with a floor jack under the axle near that brake assy. (And tires/wheels removed)

There was plenty enough clearance and with the other 3 tires on the ground I felt pretty secure in the repair.

>>>>>>>>>Action

 

And that is why I bought a lift.

 

Having looked at more than a few cable-drive lifts I'd be comfortable working under them as most have the locks along the cable paths.

Prices have come down steadily with so many new manufacturers coming into the picture--for less than $6K an average guy with suitable space could budget one into a new garage build.

 

My kid brother built his story and a half garage around one several years ago. Now, everyone in his church is putting one in their new garage projects. I looked at his, it seemed way safer than the hydraulic/air centerpost design that I used in the shop, decades ago. I locks at any height, VERY handy for those sit down brake jobs. He even made adapter pads for his Honda GoldWing motorcycle. jim

 

Too cool Jim----great idea adding the MC lift!

 

Try 2K$

 

New or used?

 

New.............

 

i think 1200 to 1800 bucks can get ya a used one....i see them here and there on craigslist.