Jacking techniques...
I'm trying to install 2" blocks and an add-a-leaf to the rear of my '89 150 and am having a bit of difficulty. I tried jacking it up from the shock perch on the axle housing tube, and then sitting a 6 ton jack stand under the frame, in front of the front leaf spring hanger. Problem I ran into was when I began to let down the axle to stretch the spring, the jack stand started to lean and was sitting on only two of the 4 corners!!! This scared the crap outta me, so I have tried setting the jack stand at the rear of the frame back by the bumper, but still ran into the same instability. I also had the front passenger side tire chocked, but this seems to have had no effect cuz the stand was leaning to the outside of the passenger side (the side I was working on.... Would it be easier AND safer to jack both sides of the rear up onto jack stands, or would this still be too unstable?? I know a lot of ya'll will say just put it on a lift, but I know this is possible, and I know some of ya'll have done it. So what do ya'll think?
Thanks ya'll!!!
Luke
Thanks ya'll!!!
Luke
Well...hopefully your brake line is long enough. But jack the truck up and put jack stands under the frame rails on the back..high enough so that the rear suspension can come all the way down with pleanty of room to spare. Then put a floor jack under the pumpkin, unbolt the u-bolts, and drop the axle down enough to slide the blocks in. Put the new u-bolts in and tighten her up. Never put add-a-leaf in.
Last edited by MustangGT221; Oct 11, 2003 at 11:32 PM.
You absolutly need to jack both sides up at the same time. Just jack away on the center of the axle. stands under the frame, and let it down. It'll be good and stable, and you'll get it done pretty quick.
Justin,
Why no blocks?
I always thought blocks, especially tall ones just add flex, contribute to axle hop, and are sometimes illegal - especially in the front on a solid axle.
The 4 inch Trailmaster lift I put on my Ranger was a combination of blocks and add-a-leaf in the rear. Worked great.
Why no blocks?
I always thought blocks, especially tall ones just add flex, contribute to axle hop, and are sometimes illegal - especially in the front on a solid axle.
The 4 inch Trailmaster lift I put on my Ranger was a combination of blocks and add-a-leaf in the rear. Worked great.
Awesome!!
Will chocking front and back of one front wheel suffice for jacking up the entire rear end? I know the steering wheel is locked, but I still don't want to see the rear fall on an axle!
Thanks again!!
Luke
Will chocking front and back of one front wheel suffice for jacking up the entire rear end? I know the steering wheel is locked, but I still don't want to see the rear fall on an axle!

Thanks again!!
Luke
Luke; Safety DEMANDS that both front wheels are chocked front and back Chocking one will allow for sideways flex as you experienced with the jack stand. I've seen too many cars slip from poorly set blocks.
Block both wheels and then continue with the jacking like RYAN50HRL said.
Larry
Block both wheels and then continue with the jacking like RYAN50HRL said.
Larry
Trending Topics
Originally posted by DanZ
Justin,
Why no blocks?
I always thought blocks, especially tall ones just add flex, contribute to axle hop, and are sometimes illegal - especially in the front on a solid axle.
The 4 inch Trailmaster lift I put on my Ranger was a combination of blocks and add-a-leaf in the rear. Worked great.
Justin,
Why no blocks?
I always thought blocks, especially tall ones just add flex, contribute to axle hop, and are sometimes illegal - especially in the front on a solid axle.
The 4 inch Trailmaster lift I put on my Ranger was a combination of blocks and add-a-leaf in the rear. Worked great.
Oops, even I was confused when I re-read it. Was thinking one thing and typed another.
I meant why no add-a-leaf?
What I was thinking in my original post was the effect of getting the whole lift just from blocks. I know there are stock blocks but sometimes people get carried away with stacking additional blocks and the axle isn't connected near as rigidly when you go lots higher than the stock blocks.
I agree that new springs are the best way to lift but thought that add-a-leaf is a good compromise.
I meant why no add-a-leaf?
What I was thinking in my original post was the effect of getting the whole lift just from blocks. I know there are stock blocks but sometimes people get carried away with stacking additional blocks and the axle isn't connected near as rigidly when you go lots higher than the stock blocks.
I agree that new springs are the best way to lift but thought that add-a-leaf is a good compromise.




