steering box: why replace?
#1
#3
Here's one thread about rebuilding the stock steering box:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-rebuild.html
I can think of two reasons people switch to power steering.
* They plan to run wider than stock tires, which makes manual steering more difficult. I believe the general consensus is that you don't want to go wider than 235 with the stock box.
* They want to use a smaller diameter steering wheel, which reduces the amount of leverage available and can make low speed steering difficult.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-rebuild.html
I can think of two reasons people switch to power steering.
* They plan to run wider than stock tires, which makes manual steering more difficult. I believe the general consensus is that you don't want to go wider than 235 with the stock box.
* They want to use a smaller diameter steering wheel, which reduces the amount of leverage available and can make low speed steering difficult.
#4
Some people don't think power steering is really needed with these trucks. I have read somewhere the Toyota manual box is an easy fit and gives quicker steering. Less steering wheel rotations stop to stop. Supposedly less effort compared to stock box.
Plus easy to swap in aftermarket column and easy to go with a power box if they decide to later.
All what I read somewhere, I haven't done it myself.
Plus easy to swap in aftermarket column and easy to go with a power box if they decide to later.
All what I read somewhere, I haven't done it myself.
#5
There are few situations in my driving where PS would be nice, chiefly parking in tight quarters. I just don't do that much. I have fairly wide tires, too. (P235) At highway speeds, I wouldn't want faster steering, seems like it could get you in trouble.
I reset the clearances in my box and it's rock solid. I can take my hands off the wheel at 60 mph if it's a smooth road and it will track straight for miles.
#6
#7
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#8
I have never regretted rebuilding my stock steering, it drives fine as long as I don't do a lot of parallel parking, (then I would go power steering for sure). I'm not a purist , but I do like keeping my truck fairly close to stock. Rebuilding the stock box was not hard with a little research there is even a small book available on the subject at the usual supplier's. The only thing I had trouble with was getting the pin out of the sector shaft to replace the gear. I ended up reusing the old sector gear as it showed no wear and works fine. As far as the shaft and worm gear, you can still buy them as a unit if you like, or you can press off and on the new worm gear which are also available by itself. So IMPO it's up to you and how you want your truck to drive. I love the feel of the original set up minus drive train. Other s like a smooth modern drive, while others like pure stock bumper to bumper as it came off the assembly line. So it's up to you there are several choices you could make, once you do your homework and you will be ok. As always the FTE guys will always help where they can. Whatever you do I know you will enjoy the process.
#10
Around here, all our roads are so potholed, frost-heaved, twisty and poorly crowned that even a new car will only go about 60 yards before being in the other lane - or the ditch with no hands.
I have fairly tight steering (all stock) on the F2 and take my hands off the wheel - never. I do use a brody **** and that helps with the slow speed manuevers.
Soon I'll have the F3 project stripped down to the frame and will have to decide on whether or not to upgrade the steering. Pros and cons for sure.
Tom
#11
thanks for the replies.
first & foremost, i need to be budget conscious. was surprised (being new to all of this) that a rebuilt box from CH is $550 + $100 core.
that is a good point about the condition of any donor toy boxes from that era.
so, how do i know if my stock unit is okay? i will say that since i've removed it (to have frame blasted) it is leaking now (where it wasn't before in it's installed state/orientation). should i just drain it and pop it open and take a look around?
i'll explore the link above, thanks.
first & foremost, i need to be budget conscious. was surprised (being new to all of this) that a rebuilt box from CH is $550 + $100 core.
that is a good point about the condition of any donor toy boxes from that era.
so, how do i know if my stock unit is okay? i will say that since i've removed it (to have frame blasted) it is leaking now (where it wasn't before in it's installed state/orientation). should i just drain it and pop it open and take a look around?
i'll explore the link above, thanks.
#12
thanks for the replies.
first & foremost, i need to be budget conscious. was surprised (being new to all of this) that a rebuilt box from CH is $550 + $100 core.
that is a good point about the condition of any donor toy boxes from that era.
so, how do i know if my stock unit is okay? i will say that since i've removed it (to have frame blasted) it is leaking now (where it wasn't before in it's installed state/orientation). should i just drain it and pop it open and take a look around?
i'll explore the link above, thanks.
first & foremost, i need to be budget conscious. was surprised (being new to all of this) that a rebuilt box from CH is $550 + $100 core.
that is a good point about the condition of any donor toy boxes from that era.
so, how do i know if my stock unit is okay? i will say that since i've removed it (to have frame blasted) it is leaking now (where it wasn't before in it's installed state/orientation). should i just drain it and pop it open and take a look around?
i'll explore the link above, thanks.
If it is leaking lubricant, that is a good sign.
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