I have a 2004 F53 with the V-10 with a Fleetwood motor home on it. 46000 miles.

The fuel pump started acting up and i have low fuel pressure. after a lot of testing i replaced the pump and all the hoses on top of the tank. of course you have to pull the tank to do this.

Nothing was touched to my knowledge that has to do with the ABS system.

After everything was put back together and i started the motor. the ABS light came on as usual during the pre-check then went off, and after a couple of seconds came back on, and stays on. it does this each time its started.

I read the most common problem is the rear speed sensor i tested it and it measured .95 oms so i replace it. the new one measures 1.8 oms.

light is still on. so today i will be testing the front. to insure they are good.

the fuses tested OK.

David

My question is what else should i be checking?

 

You either misread the range or you need a new meter. Off the top of my head, those sensors usually measure between 1,000 and 2000 ohms (1K - 2K).

If the resistance checks don't prove out, you'll need a scan tool that can read ABS codes in order to make progress.

Keep in mind that if there is an ABS fault, it simply means that the ABS system is offline leaving you with standard power-assisted brakes, just like was normal before ABS came along.

 

As i had said early i had replaced the fuel pump and only had about 20 gals in the tank, so yesterday i drove the motor home down to the station to fill up.
When i started her up the ABS light went off and on as it has been doing. once i had moved about 200 yards or so the light went out and has not come back on.
I had completely forgot i needed to drive a bit to get the system to reset.

After 40 or so miles with lots of stop and go the light is still off, and the brakes feel good.

David

 

For the record:

To test ABS sensors, set your digital volt meter to AC volts, connect it to the sensor (with it unplugged from the rest of the truck) and spin the wheel as fast as you can by hand.

You should see .2 to .3 volts. This is for the fronts. I'm not sure about the rear. If one is within range, and the other is not, swap them and make sure the "known good" one reads correctly on that wheel. If it does not, the wheel bearing is probably shot and the tone ring is too far from the sensor or it's full of metal.

The ABS system doesn't light the light because it needs to "reset" or "relearn" - it NEVER lights that light except on initial startup test, and if there is a fault.

Check your brake fluid level. The ABS monitors the float switch in the master cylinder.

Or, you have something else going on - again, the ABS light doesn't just come on for no reason like it needs to relearn anything.

 

So not to bring up an old topic but i have a similar issue with a 2003 F53. On a trip last fall car pulled out directly in front of us and I had to get hard on the brakes. About 30 miles later ABS light went on. When we got to camp I could smell brakes and looked at front and found one of the pads had separated from the backing plate and was jammed in the rotor. I went to a local parts store and bought a cheap set of pads to get home. Once home I took it apart and the caliper seal was melted. I ordered a new caliper and new pads and replaced both sides. ABS light still on.

Searching online showed sensor. At this point i had 2 feet of snow around it so waited until this spring. I crawled under the camper and tested each sensor with a ohm meter and showed around 1600-1800 ohms on all but the driver rear. That showed open still. Ordered a new one and after an hour of trying to get it out replaced it with a new one. Again still an ABS light. Drove vehicle for 50+ miles and its still on.

Next went and bought a tester from NAPA that was supposed to talk to the F53. Of course the only way i can get it to talk is to set it for the F550 and i can read engine codes, but doesn't show any ABS codes....

Just drove from NY to NC and back and its still on. At this point just trying to find a reader that will talk to the 2003 F53. I have bought 3 so far and none do.

 

Read the post right above yours. Test the sensors, but don't check ohms, check for AC volts in the .2-.3 volt range while spinning the wheel. If the ABS sensor is not close enough to the tone ring, or the wheel bearing is doing bad and the tone ring has moved away from the sensor, the ABS module will not get a signal.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16336161

 

Had planned on trying this today, but want to find a code reader that will talk to the F53 chassis. None of the readers I have show any ABS codes yet the light is on. Sun is out so I'll get the jack out and tester again....

 

Forscan will show ABS codes.
Free software and you will need a wifi or Bluetooth OBD2 dongle or direct USB cable.

 

Yeah, I keep forgetting about Forscan - I really need to make a sticky for it, and maybe a tutorial. I used it recently to change some "as built" data in my Taurus SHO - stopped the double-honk when I close the door with the engine running, and added the AWD gauge.

And that was using a really el-cheapo OBD-II bluetooth adapter and a Dell laptop.

 

Keep in mind that on the '03 SD, including the F53, the ABS system is on the ISO bus by itself, it's not the SCP bus that communicates with the PCM. Different pin on the OBDII connector, different protocol. Any scan tool or interface to be used must support this feature.

 

Ok. Now i'm confused. I'll have to google around. I will pick up one of the blue tooth adapters also. The issue I keep finding is nothing lists the F53.

 

The F53 is nothing but a stripped down Super Duty whose chassis was then sent to a coach builder for integration into the final product.

If it specifies the SD line of trucks, it should work fine on the F53 for Ford's factory-installed subsystems.

 

That was my assumption also. the only code reader that seeems to work the best is the Actron. It lists SD as F250, then 350, then 450 and last in the list is the 550. Both the 450 and 550 will talk to the engine and pulled a miss fire code that i am also tracking down. It says it is reading the ABS codes but no codes come up. That seems to be the issue as the light is lit and would assume the reader would show why if indeed there is an issue. I have 2 other scan tools but only one other with the ABS and it wont even talk to the chassis.