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Skylight Replacement Question

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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 02:22 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by wrvond
Double sided the width of the flange for between the flange and roof, with single sided twice the width of the flange for on top.
The top layer is probably overkill, but that thing will never come off or leak.

https://www.amazon.com/Eternabond-Do...=1&*entries*=0

https://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-RS...d+rv+roof+tape

I thought about doing that since I already have the tape...but what if something happens and you need to remove it, especially with the double sided tape. At least with the wider tape for just the flange you could cut it.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by wrvond
It looks better than factory.
Naturally, now that the job is done, I'll say I would have used Eternabond tape for the project and skipped the butyl rubber and dicor altogether.
when I was buying stuff for the replacement, I specifically asked about the eternabond and whether it would work for this or not since I have some 6" for another project.


I would have much rather done like you said, but his point of view was that it was just another layer to potentially fail.


I was going to put down one layer of e-bond over the existing skin, to cover the holes and give the new dome a perfectly clean surface. then go over the outside with another layer to cover the screw heads and overlap onto the original skin.


oh well, maybe next time.


I hope there is not a next time. I'm hoping the polycarbonate dome and dicor out lives my desire to own this camper
 
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 04:31 PM
  #18  
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Mike,

I think you did an excellent job and I would not have used E-Bond in this application. I know folks do it because I see the edges lifting all the time so you still end up with caulking, it is just on the edge of the e-band.

There is a point at which you reach overkill. Sealing skylights and vents is really not hard and they do not constitute a very large percentage of roof leaks unless the vent cover or skylight breaks.

Steve
 
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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 08:03 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by RV_Tech
Mike,

I think you did an excellent job and I would not have used E-Bond in this application. I know folks do it because I see the edges lifting all the time so you still end up with caulking, it is just on the edge of the e-band.

There is a point at which you reach overkill. Sealing skylights and vents is really not hard and they do not constitute a very large percentage of roof leaks unless the vent cover or skylight breaks.

Steve
Well, I did say it looks better than factory...

As with all things, preparation is the key. You can buy the most expensive whiz-bang sealer around, but if the surface isn't properly prepped, nothing will stick.
I have a phobia about roof leaks - I deleted the sky light and ladder on my TT to reduce the number of roof penetrations. I say, never use a hammer when a maul is available!
 
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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 09:58 AM
  #20  
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well, I have to reduce my atta-boy's ...


I got up there last night and I found two screw heads that weren't covered with dicor. I've got some pics but my phone and computer are in some kind of internal battle so I can't upload the pic...


not sure if I need to use the other tube of dicor or not. hate to open the tube just for two ounces, but I would hate a leak worse ...


dilemma dilemma


another thing I noticed was that the dicor was pulling up on the roof as it cured. you could see where the dicor was lifting the rubber away from the plywood as it (apparently) shrunk as it cured. looks totally different than it did before. weird stuff.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 10:03 AM
  #21  
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Do you literally mean they were not covered or do you just mean the dicor sunk down into the screw? Not covered at all means something. Just sunk down, yawn.

Steve
 
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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 10:58 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by meborder
...


not sure if I need to use the other tube of dicor or not. hate to open the tube just for two ounces, but I would hate a leak worse ...


dilemma dilemma


...

I'm sure there are some other areas on your roof that could use some attention if you absolutely had to open another tube. My roof is in pretty good shape, but I know if I had to open a tube of sealant there are some areas that could use some attention. For example, there is some small cracks starting on the dicor up against the bathroom vent, and the TV antenna could use some attention. Maybe look around the roof a bit more and see if you could use at least part of what's left on some other areas so it doesn't go to waste. I'm sure you can cap it, but that has never seemed to work well for me.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 01:28 PM
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The first one is probably the worst. there are a few scattered around that probably look like the second one.


I did run the screws through the butyl tape.
is it worth burning the other tube of dicor?






 
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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 01:55 PM
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Not worth it in my book. I would catch it sometime in the future during routine maintenance.

It seems to me the old Dicor used to keep forever. When the new advertising push began, I felt like they changed the formula. Now it doesn't keep worth a crap so I end up wasting a lot unless I can use the tube quickly.

Steve
 
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Old Jun 12, 2016 | 08:57 AM
  #25  
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You can run an appropriately sized screw into the nozzle of the sealant to keep it from drying. I have been doing this for years on anything like and it works great.
 
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