eternabond
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Sioux Falls Area
eternabond
i just got some 4" wide eternabond to seal up a lap joint in the roof or our horse trailer.
the original "tape" or whatever is cracked and has been leaking for years. the previous owners have tried to seal it back up with silicone, and so did i but nothing worked.
the original stuff was only about 2 inches wide or so. my hope was that the 4" wide eternabond will seal over and around the existing tape without needing to remove the old stuff.
my question is, how clean does the roof need to be before applying the eternabond? windex clean? acid washed clean? wire brushed?
the instructions aren't really all that helpful.
any thoughts?
thanks!
the original "tape" or whatever is cracked and has been leaking for years. the previous owners have tried to seal it back up with silicone, and so did i but nothing worked.
the original stuff was only about 2 inches wide or so. my hope was that the 4" wide eternabond will seal over and around the existing tape without needing to remove the old stuff.
my question is, how clean does the roof need to be before applying the eternabond? windex clean? acid washed clean? wire brushed?
the instructions aren't really all that helpful.
any thoughts?
thanks!
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,414
Likes: 22
From: Tucson USA
I did my old pickup slide in camper with it. I cleaned the old stuff of and then used acetone/denatured alcohol to clean residue away. You just need to determine how well of a job do you want it to be. Yes it can probably work over the old silicone and stuff but I dont think it will offer the protection of it being cleaned out and then taped over.
I just gave the camper away to a friend for a hunting rig and it was still working well. Had been on for about 5-6 years.
I just gave the camper away to a friend for a hunting rig and it was still working well. Had been on for about 5-6 years.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
I did my old pickup slide in camper with it. I cleaned the old stuff of and then used acetone/denatured alcohol to clean residue away. You just need to determine how well of a job do you want it to be. Yes it can probably work over the old silicone and stuff but I dont think it will offer the protection of it being cleaned out and then taped over.
I just gave the camper away to a friend for a hunting rig and it was still working well. Had been on for about 5-6 years.
I just gave the camper away to a friend for a hunting rig and it was still working well. Had been on for about 5-6 years.
Otherwise it will lift!
Steve
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From: Sioux Falls Area
hummm ...
rather disappointing to hear .... i bought the stuff based on the reviews i was reading, almost all of which was very positive.
well, i'll get it clean and run a bead or silicone all the way around it as you suggest. no interest in doing the job to begin with, let alone doing it twice.
thanks for the tips!
rather disappointing to hear .... i bought the stuff based on the reviews i was reading, almost all of which was very positive.
well, i'll get it clean and run a bead or silicone all the way around it as you suggest. no interest in doing the job to begin with, let alone doing it twice.
thanks for the tips!
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
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I used the 12" stuff to lay over the existing tape on the top of my slides. I used acetone to clean the surfaces first. It worked well, but like Steve said the ends will come up a little. The long edges have stayed down. You have to press it down really well. Get a small roller.
I don't know for sure, but that Eternabond tape looks a lot like the stuff the manufacturers use.
I don't know for sure, but that Eternabond tape looks a lot like the stuff the manufacturers use.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
I think it is the same stuff. The only difference is the manufacturers are putting it on a brand new surface and even then I still see a lot of raised edges on tops of slides where the seal scuffs against it.
i still think Eternabound is a very good product. I carry it on my truck and use it on occasion, but I often see it used as though an owner simply plastered it down without cleaning the surface as though it is a substitute for doing a good job and then I think it works less well. There just is never a substitute for doing a job right.
I see it used a lot over the front trim strip on the roof where the cap joins the roof and it often ripples and water sneaks in the small raised areas. All you really accomplish then is move the caulk line back a little further.
Steve
i still think Eternabound is a very good product. I carry it on my truck and use it on occasion, but I often see it used as though an owner simply plastered it down without cleaning the surface as though it is a substitute for doing a good job and then I think it works less well. There just is never a substitute for doing a job right.
I see it used a lot over the front trim strip on the roof where the cap joins the roof and it often ripples and water sneaks in the small raised areas. All you really accomplish then is move the caulk line back a little further.
Steve
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From: Sioux Falls Area
i was planning on using acetone to clean it, as mentioned above. also, putting it down with a heat gun like I did with the dynamat for my car (many moons ago).
when prepping aluminum for welding, you would wire brush it with a stainless steel wire brush to remove all the oxidation ... does one need to get it that clean? or is acetone and a scrubbing pad going to work well enough?
do you think the heat would help activate the adhesive?
when prepping aluminum for welding, you would wire brush it with a stainless steel wire brush to remove all the oxidation ... does one need to get it that clean? or is acetone and a scrubbing pad going to work well enough?
do you think the heat would help activate the adhesive?
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Central Colorado
Your usage is somewhat different than my experience with Eternabond. Personally, I would go with Steve's recommendations.
I have used the product to repair a tear in my rubber roof. When I did that, I used Goo-Gone to clean it and then used soapy water to clean off the Goo-Gone. I then used a fine sandpaper to scuff the surface of the rubber where it would overlap.
I did roll it down once I applied it with a 6" wide rubber wallpaper roller.
So far I have seen no signs of it lifting. That would be after a year, four seasons, and 8000 miles. I believe Steve has it right. As clean as you can get it, a little "tooth" to help the sticking, is going to be the best way you can install it. Maybe I have been lucky, but so far so good.
I have used the product to repair a tear in my rubber roof. When I did that, I used Goo-Gone to clean it and then used soapy water to clean off the Goo-Gone. I then used a fine sandpaper to scuff the surface of the rubber where it would overlap.
I did roll it down once I applied it with a 6" wide rubber wallpaper roller.
So far I have seen no signs of it lifting. That would be after a year, four seasons, and 8000 miles. I believe Steve has it right. As clean as you can get it, a little "tooth" to help the sticking, is going to be the best way you can install it. Maybe I have been lucky, but so far so good.
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Sioux Falls Area
i just realized that i had silicone in my head .... not opposed to caulk if that works better. just for me silicone and caulk has become interchangeable.
what kind of caulk should i use?
what kind of caulk should i use?
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 370
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From: Central Colorado
Good question! I was up on the roof yesterday replacing the little gutter extenders in the front (tree branches, don't ask) and I noticed that the seal from the front cap to rubber roof was showing signs of cracking.
Silicone is not the choice, I understand that, but what is a good sealant and where to buy it other than an RV place (if possible).
Thanks!