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Had new pinion seal and u joints installed at dealer. Tech comes back and show me I need axle seals. Sure enough, they both are leaking. Adding another 500 to the bill. I said no. I'll do it myself.
Well, not only is the seals leaking but the once I got started. Both dust shields are rusted through. So, add that to my repair.
I'm having a terrible time getting parking brake off bracket at dust shield that's attached to adjusting clip through dust shield
Any help would be appreciated in removing parking brake cable from clip.
This has become a big job now. At 450 without the dust shields in the price I could imaging it be up around 600-700 now. So far I've got only 150 in parts but I've been working on it since Friday night and kinda wish I spent the money now
It's been very frustrating. I've got a 47 year old Mustang with disc brakes on the front and those dust shields are still solid!!! Can't believe a 10 year old trucks dust shields are soooo crappy!!!
YES it's a pain to get that off, If you look under your driver side you will see the cable running along the frame and you will see a connector, I pulled down on the cable and had someone stick a piece of wood in where the rewind drum is on the e-brake cable foot peddle. I then had enough slack to disconnect rear cable portion from the front. Than what you need to do at the shield is pull the square connector 90 degree's from the lever and lift it off. I also unbolted the shield from the axle and removed it so I could hold the assemble in my hand
Oh and this is what my drivers shield looked like, It broke apart and got pulled into the rotor knocking the pad out and this allowed the caliper to push into the rotor destroying the rotor and caliper and also the caliper piston went past the seals and YUP I lost brake pressure, The other side had rotted and the e-brake assembly had broken apart and was jammed in the rotor. Now I have all new shields as well as drilled and slotted rotors and high performance pads on all 4 corners and she stops on a dime....
Two vice-grips. Preset both clamps so they grab onto the bare brake cable that comes out of the sheave from the front floorboard. You want to grip the cable, not crush it.
Use the first vice-grip a few inches from the sheave to grip the cable then pull it towards the back of the truck, retracting the cable out of the tensioned take-up reel. Use the second vice-grip to clamp the bare cable right out of the sheave, which prevents the take-up reel pulling the cable back to its tensioned position. This will relax the opposite tension spring at the backing plate.
What I did with my replacement sandwiched plates was to spray a thickening grease between the two plates, either Bel-Ray chain lube or LPS 3 will work. Then I used a thick grease, in my case Moly-Lube or a anti-seize grease, around the pin location that rusted through on the outside once I was finished with the install. The pin pull-through is the common failed event, but you caught yours before that occurred. With the two layers, water and de-icer get into this area and encourages rust.
So far my OE replacements have lasted longer then the same production line installed plates without any indication of rusting through. And my 51 year old Mustang front disc brake dust shields and rear backing plates like yours are still in good condition. Unfortunately TRW decided to design this as a layered design to build up strength rather then opting for a slightly more expensive single stamping out of thicker material which would not have this issue.
Two vice-grips. Preset both clamps so they grab onto the bare brake cable that comes out of the sheave from the front floorboard. You want to grip the cable, not crush it.
Use the first vice-grip a few inches from the sheave to grip the cable then pull it towards the back of the truck, retracting the cable out of the tensioned take-up reel. Use the second vice-grip to clamp the bare cable right out of the sheave, which prevents the take-up reel pulling the cable back to its tensioned position. This will relax the opposite tension spring at the backing plate.
What I did with my replacement sandwiched plates was to spray a thickening grease between the two plates, either Bel-Ray chain lube or LPS 3 will work. Then I used a thick grease, in my case Moly-Lube or a anti-seize grease, around the pin location that rusted through on the outside once I was finished with the install. The pin pull-through is the common failed event, but you caught yours before that occurred. With the two layers, water and de-icer get into this area and encourages rust
Worked like a charm Jack. Reps to ya. Only thing I did different was clamp my vise grips on the cable going through the frame bracket. Being 6'4" and 250 wrestling under the steering wheel made it a little tight
This made it easier for me. Had it off in 10 minutes.
Hello everyone. This is just a suggestion for everyone here. As you can see by my latest pictures our dust shieldso need to be checked every few years. This was the passenger side and the parking brake shoe pin was laying in the drum.
I would say if your truck is 5- 6 years old I'd start poking around the dust cover to make sure it's not starting to rust through.
Thx, to all who have given me tips and tricks while doing this project
Not to mention the seals leaking all over everything.
05-22-2016, 12:01 AM
. I've got a 47 year old Mustang with disc brakes on the front and those dust shields are still solid!!! Can't believe a 10 year old trucks dust shields are soooo crappy!!!
