Well, I've been putting this off long enough. Either I'm going to do the work or I'll have to pay out the wazoo for someone else to do it. Being unemployed, I'd prefer to save the cash.

I have a 2000 F250SD 4x4 Super Cab Single Rear Wheels, 5.4L, Gas, Year Code Y (it was built late summer of '99...delivered late Sept early Oct '99). The truck has just under 100,000 miles.

I have three brake issues that need to be addressed.

First...
My parking brake cable broke under the driver seat. Got the replacement. I haven't replaced it yet. I can't seem to figure an easy way to remove the old one and insert the new one. Is it simpler than it seems or am I a retard?

Second...
I wasn't in too much of a hurry to replace the cable because I didn't intend to need the parking brake as the parking brake pads are worn out. They're worn out because I can't seem to figure out how to remove the rear Rotor/Drum assembly. The manual I have says I have to remove the axle shaft and its retaining nut (requiring a special tool). That seems a lot more involved than it should be. By that, I mean this sounds like something I could really screw up. Help. Another description in my manual says that the rotor/drum should just come off...no need to remove the axle. (When they say axle shaft - is that a formal term for the AXLE?). Apparently, in 2000, there were two types of bake combinations or a transition from one setup to another. When replacing the rotors last spring, I was given front rotors that were too big...went back to the store and went round and round until we figured out what the correct rotors were (a day later!).

See here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...00-sd-4x4.html

Third...
Now I have a front brake dragging intermittently. I smelled it, got out and saw the left front smoking a little. Let it cool, pounded on the brake pedal while stopped, drove a mile home and no dragging brake. This is the second time I've noticed it in a couple of days. The last time I wasn't able to isolate it because the wind was blowing 20-30 mph. I'm assuming that the pins the caliper slides on may need cleaning/lubing. Could it be something more involved?

I should be albe to handle all this. I'm by no means an ace mechanic but I have in the past replaced a clutch, rear axles, rebuilt front hubs on another 4x4, rebuilt an engine with a bent connecting rod and tore up piston.

 

Um, I'd vote for parking it until you can afford to fix it. When you have brake issues, you put a lot of people in jeopardy.
Search these forums, find the problems, save the bucks and set aside a couple days to "get 'er done".

 

I second that. Get a repair manual and then go to town.

 

The emer brake cable should be a no brainer. Rotors just come off no axle dealings.
Front brakes check for froze pins . Same as the rear.. Should have no problems with sizes as long as the know its a SRW truck..



Dick

 

First: Cable replacement. https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pu...9/S3O65006.PDF

Second: The rear parking brake pads have a star wheel that adjusts them. Find the hole in the back of the hub assembly that you can insert a suitable flat-blade screwdriver and adjust the star wheel so that the pads back off the inside of the rotor. It may have or should have a rubber plug in it.

Rotors can be a bitch to remove. You may ruin it in the process if you use a BFH. Some guys have used a puller with success.

Third: Remove the calipers and lube the pins. You should also check the rubber boots which go over the pistons. They may have holes in them or have ripped. This can create corrosion which prevents the pistons from retracting properly. Sounds like a a full inspection is needed.

 

Thanks for all the advice. I took some advice from someone who replied to my first post...I got rid of the Chilton manual and got the Haynes manual in stead. Much better.

The Parking brake pads can be removed without pulling axles and axle shaft per the Haynes manual. The Chilton manual was completely wrong on that. That problem solved.

I don't have a proper work bench so overhauling the calipers really wasn't something I wanted to try on the tailgate. I took a bit more time going through the past posts to see how other people trouble shot their problems. That helped a lot. I replaced the one in question. One of the 2 pistons was frozen in place. Problem solved.

I did find a good description (in the new Haynes manual) on replacing the parking brake cable where it comes through the floorboard. Once I pulled back the carpet and removed the kick panel I saw there wasn't much to it at all. A little awkward, grunt...cuss, but got that knocked out.

Thanks for the info and links. They're now saved. For some reason my mac laptop wouldn't work on some of the sites and links I searched. Got em on the home pc now.

Man I have got to take back my garage from the wife and kids!

 

Could also be sticking caliper piston. Why rebuild why not just replace with remanf. Check for the metal piston vs. pheonlic. on the replacment.

I agree if you have a dragging brake that is smoking park it and solve the issue. You are really at risk if the brake is smoking.