I finally got around to replacing the brakes on my 69 F250. I started on the Pass. side. The automatic adj. cable was hanging loose. It was still intact, just not connected to the adj. lever at the star wheel. The wheel bearings looked almost brand new, so I decided to just grease them. Before I went for a parts run I took the drivers side wheel off. The inner hub seal was loose inside of the brake drum! Grease was everywhere. Now I knew why the Pass side brake pulled when applied. The left side wasn't doing anything, just sliding along. I bought new brakes, wheel cylinders, speed bleeders, and wheel seals. The hardware looked good.Here is the wheel cyl:


This is the wheel cyl that was sorta working. This end was rusted solid!

 

This is the end that was working-a little.

 

This is the seal from the good side. Ford blue, with the Ford logo and part number. It was leaking a little.

 

ewww crusty

 

Good thing you tore into it and found this. Looks like you might have only been running on the front brakes.

 

Yes, and only one side on the front!

 

rock auto has Raybestos & Napa version, master cylinders on sale for $16.65!! I just ordered one. No rush to install, since it suppose to rain most of next week.

 

When I converted my '69 F250 to front discs, I found this:

 

What's the importance of "bore size" with the masters? I don't know my bore size. There's one there from NAPA that doesn't note what the front brakes are for 16.95 and there's one from

A-1 CARDONE 101529 {#C9TZ2140G, D5UZ2140B} Reman. w/ Reservoir Info
Front Disc brakes; Rear Drum brakes; Power brakes; without Bendix Casting 31.79

Another from:

RAYBESTOS RMC36352 Reman Info
Master Cylinder (Remanufactured); 3/4 TON and w/FT DISC/RR DRUM,1-1/4" - w/Power Brakes 35.20

Another:

RAYBESTOS MC36352 Professional Grade; Bore Size=1-1/4" Info One of our most popular parts
Front Disc Brakes; Rear Drum Brakes 39.79

So, just making a educated guess but I'm thinking that I probably have a 1 1/4" bore.

Odd that there are a couple that don't mention bore size or if it is F disc?

:I'm thinking I'm better off just getting the complete remans. Opinions?

 

I looked at a photo in one of your other threads. The angle is looking head on towards the MC and booster. I can't tell from the angle of the photo if your booster is a single or dual diaphragm unit (no photo shot from the side). The MC looks tall though which would make me think it has a 1-1/4" bore. A 1.00" bore MC is shorter in height.

Personally, I would not buy a rebuilt MC.

Here's an example of a 1-1/4" bore (brand new) MC for a '72 F250 with front discs/rear drums and power brakes.

BrakeBest Brakes Select NMC1529 - Master Cylinder | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

Thanks Steve. So, I believe I will purchase the new ones. It'll put a dent in my budget but it isn't an area I will compromise on. I wanted to rebuild mine but by the looks of things it would cost me more to do that than buy new??? Crazy.

 

See post #7

 

1190's are actually front seals normally. So I have no clue why Ford used this engineering number for a rear seal kit. D1TA1190AA does not show in any of my cross reference slides. But since the engineering numbers usually went hand in hand with part numbers back then I am assuming it is part number D1TZ1190A. D1TZ1190A was a kit that included kit specific hub seal number D1TZ1175B. Then this number disappears. If your rear axle is the one that your rig came from the factory with, We would need to know brake size and before or after ser number F30,001. Recently it was figured out someone in the Kingdom has a 68ish rear end under his 1969. I don't remember if that was you Gary or not.

F250 4X2:

12 1/8" X 2"......before ser F30,001....seal A8TZ1175B (replaced A8TZ1175A)
12 1/8" x 2"......after F30,001 through to 1972............seal C9TZ1175A.
12" x 2 1/2"......before ser F30,001....seal C6TZ1175B (replaced C6TZ1175A)
12" X 2 1/2".....after F30,001 to 1972............seal C9TZ1175A.

 

You are correct- that is the front seal. I will try to finish up the driver's side on tuesday(weather has been crappy-nothing but drizzle). I'll replace the rear wheel cyl. for sure, but I have to look to see what else the rear system needs. I hate to go to the parts places time after time.