65 F-600 Brake problems
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: North east Georgia
65 F-600 Brake problems
I have been working on these brakes for some time. I'm pulling my hair out.
The right rear wheel is locking up. I have replace wheel cylinders, linings, sanded the ridge off of the backing plate lubed all moving parts, all brake lines both steel and rubber have been replaced evan the springs have been replaced. also the hydrovac and master cylinder have been replaced.
Please I'm at a loss as to what to do next.
Can someone plaese Help
The right rear wheel is locking up. I have replace wheel cylinders, linings, sanded the ridge off of the backing plate lubed all moving parts, all brake lines both steel and rubber have been replaced evan the springs have been replaced. also the hydrovac and master cylinder have been replaced.
Please I'm at a loss as to what to do next.
Can someone plaese Help
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 8,402
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If you mean that the brake locks up and does not release (drags) then could be incorrect shoe adjustment or restricted brake line or loose wheel bearing or brake shoe binding on back plate or out of round drum.
If you mean that the brake locks up and then releases (grabs) then could be loose wheel bearing or loose back plate or primary abd secondary shoes reversed.
Hopefully others will chime in.
If you mean that the brake locks up and then releases (grabs) then could be loose wheel bearing or loose back plate or primary abd secondary shoes reversed.
Hopefully others will chime in.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: North east Georgia
Wheel bearings and seals are new the backing plate has been checked and cleaned. I found two very small ridges they have been sanded off the adjusters and keepers have been cleaned and lightly lubed.
Here is what’s happening, while bleeding the brakes I could tell more about what was going on while the truck was up on jack stands. I noticed the right would not release but would slowly release just a little to the point that I was able to turn the wheel with a lot of drag. However, if I opened the bleeder the break would release. To me it acts as though there is some sort of blockage or defective wheel cylinder. The problem is I've replace everything to include finding one of the new wheel cylinders to have pits and leaking so the parts store replaced it no charge.......
I really need some help at this point.
Here is what’s happening, while bleeding the brakes I could tell more about what was going on while the truck was up on jack stands. I noticed the right would not release but would slowly release just a little to the point that I was able to turn the wheel with a lot of drag. However, if I opened the bleeder the break would release. To me it acts as though there is some sort of blockage or defective wheel cylinder. The problem is I've replace everything to include finding one of the new wheel cylinders to have pits and leaking so the parts store replaced it no charge.......
I really need some help at this point.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
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Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
if it releases when you crack the bleeder you must have a restriction. Since it is only holding pressure on one wheel it would have to be in the line from the T on the rear and the wheel cyl. try loosening the line to the rr wheel at the T and see if it releases.
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Freshman User
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From: North east Georgia
Thanks for everyone's help. I'm going to Take it all apart agian tonight. I'm getting good at that, at least I can say I know how it goes together evan if I'm not able to repair it.
I sure hope I'm able to find out whats going on with this thing this time........
I sure hope I'm able to find out whats going on with this thing this time........
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Freshman User
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From: North east Georgia
I've pulled the right rear apart again. with everything off the backing plate except the wheel cylinders and the brake lines still hooked up with only minimal fluid pressure, I tried to move the wheel cylinders back and forth (that is to say side to side). The top cylinder seemed to be slightly stuck and hard to move at first and then it seemed to free up. The bottom one feels like it has some chatter or roughness and was hard to push back and forth.
The cylinders are new and one was bad and was already replaced. What if I was to run a hone through it? How far would you hone the cylinder?????????? Or is there some other reason they are acting like this or maybe this is normal??????????
Anyone have any thoughts
The cylinders are new and one was bad and was already replaced. What if I was to run a hone through it? How far would you hone the cylinder?????????? Or is there some other reason they are acting like this or maybe this is normal??????????
Anyone have any thoughts
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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The wheel cyl pistons can be quite hard to move in the bore but should not be stuck. A light hone would do no harm but if the problem is the piston wobbling in the bore (due to bad manufacture) honing will not help. Worth a try however.
I think the key was when you said that the brake freed up when you opened the bleed screw. There must be a restriction in a brake pipe feeding that brake. This is most common in rubber brake hoses but not impossible in steel lines.
I assume that on that truck a brake line runs down the frame to a rubber hose above the axle and a hard line runs from there to each wheel, right?
If so the rubber hose can be rulled out as the other wheel is not dragging. So the restriction is either in the line across the axle to that brake or in the line joining the two wheel cylinders.
If you get the brake to lock again, instead of opening the bleed screw you loosen the pipe that runs along the axle where it connects to the wheel cylinder. If the brake then frees up I would replace that pipe. If it doesn`t free up then replace the pipe joining the two wheel cylinders.
I am sort of working blind here and assuming that is what you have.
I think the key was when you said that the brake freed up when you opened the bleed screw. There must be a restriction in a brake pipe feeding that brake. This is most common in rubber brake hoses but not impossible in steel lines.
I assume that on that truck a brake line runs down the frame to a rubber hose above the axle and a hard line runs from there to each wheel, right?
If so the rubber hose can be rulled out as the other wheel is not dragging. So the restriction is either in the line across the axle to that brake or in the line joining the two wheel cylinders.
If you get the brake to lock again, instead of opening the bleed screw you loosen the pipe that runs along the axle where it connects to the wheel cylinder. If the brake then frees up I would replace that pipe. If it doesn`t free up then replace the pipe joining the two wheel cylinders.
I am sort of working blind here and assuming that is what you have.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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Great post.
The key here: looks like the lines are "self made" from bulk lines.
That almost instantly suggest a kink / excessive bend that closed the steel hose.
That is if it is not in rubber.
Work backwards from the wheel cylinder, until it is found.
Sometimes, a constricted steel line does not look constricted until you look real close.. especially if the lines disappear into difficult to see areas.
It may be easier to disconnect the line at both ends, then check for blockage by seeing how much pressure is required to get fluid to flow...
If it doesn't flow freely.. there is your answer.
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