When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That is a good point about the machine shops . we got one fella in town who knows his way around a flatty and he is battling cancer so we have a long wait for work here abouts ...... A nightmare story .... I sold two early flatty blocks and cranks to a fella here that had been magnafluxed, hot tanked , the whole nine yards by a shop in the st . louis area . reason he needed them . wilkersons ( yes the shop owned by funny car driver Tim Wilkerson ) took his flatty block in for his 40 coupe . they done the usual and with luck got it all right .... Then they put the head studs in and ran the long studs in in a few places where they were 'sposed to be short ( late model block ) and busted through the water jackets . he put it all together in the car , fired it up and had coolant running out the exhaust ports .... It pays to find someone who knows and does old school stuff or it could cost you more ! Oh and yeah wilkersons claimed they did not do the damage and eventually did not have to pay for it ......
Thanks everyone for your input..yes I will spend the money to have the block checked out as some have suggested and I've decided new valves are the way to go so I'll probably buy the set of valves and related parts and give to the machine shop for proper fitting etc..I guess this is the right way to go with this part of it. Haven't decided on the pistons yet but I'm hoping to reuse them and replace rings and maybe even the bearings..take a look of bearing and piston pics below they seem to look ok?
In the meantime I'm having a hell of a time getting these valves out. Got the first on out fairly easy and spent nearly the entire day today trying to get the second one out..so I've decided to ask for help (again).
Please take a look at the pic below to try to see what I'm doing wrong..I can't get that retainer(horse shoe clip) to come out with a fully compressed valve spring..I'm losing this battle. Please help. Thanks
Last edited by F-1; May 19, 2016 at 03:49 PM.
Reason: made addition
First thing is to get her cleaned and MPI'd. I don't want to scare you, but the #6 cylinder appears to have an indication from the cylinder to the intake valve. It has to be cleaned, maybe it is just the carbon.
If you want her to run cool, getting the water passages cleaned is paramount. Four ring pistons are what it came with, but 3 ring Pistons have less friction heat.
I recommend you get an engine stand support bracket from Stumpys Fab Works that supports the block at the exhaust manifold bolt holes. It will make life a lot easier.
It appears you have the bearing shells mixed up (not with the rod/cap they came out of), so you have to replace them. They don't look awful, but clearly worn too. What was your oil pressure before? What U/S is marked on the backs of the shells? Is there a date on them too?
The other bearings not mentioned yet, how are your cam bearings? In a stock engine with frequently changed oil they last forever. In an abused or neglected engine they are shot. Since oil goes through the cam bearings before it goes to the crank and rods, if your cam bearings are worn you have low oil pressure. Be careful about just pulling out and trashing the existing cam bearings, occasionally oversize OD cam bearings are found in a block and replacements are not available. In that case you hope the ID is good and you reuse the old bearings. Actually anytime the ID is good and no issues are noted you can reuse the old cam bearings.
Yeah..my oil pressure always sat around a low 30 psi..bothered me since I read it should be around 50 psi..temp always a problem but assumed there was an issue with the senders.
Hey guys..you're throwing a lot at me and I appreciate it..believe me if I don't understand all the jargon..ie: "clogs in the throws" or something like that I research it usually that same evening..just be patient with me I really want to understand this stuff..I'm having a blast!!!
I'm going to replace those bearings and rings..but I'm hoping to salvage the pistons so i don't have to spend $$ on piston cylinder rework. This truck is a driver. I drove it for 2 years until my wiring harness burned up. I decided then it was time to begin my restoration project. So here I am a.. "first timer"" appreciate your support. Thanks.
BTW..how do you get that cam out?? looks complicated.
Getting the cam out is the easy part, it slides out the front of the engine. Removing everything else so you can get the cam out is the hard part. You need to remove all the other parts of the valve train first. Basically when tearing the engine down the cam is the last thing your remove.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
