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Your idle pressures are about 30 PSI. Stall pressures were low, but barely acceptable in all except 1, where they were clearly below spec, and it looked like it dropped before I heard the engine speed change. I think there is a leak in the forward clutch circuit. Usually this is from a seal failure inside the clutch.
That attachment also has EPC pressures and shows the EPC tap. That would be another good test to do. If the EPC is wrong all the pressure will be wrong, and that can be fixed with a new solenoid.
And you were right I did not hold the throttle open long enough
Line pressure at idle 30 PSI Park and Neutral which is on the low side of the specification
WOT
Reverse 250 PSI within specification
Drive, 2, and 1 200 PSI on the lower side of 190 to 230 PSI
The pressure at one was not stable but fluttered between say 180 and 200 PSI
Delay on engagement happens when moving from N to D.
Does not happen when going from N to 2
Does not happen when you release the brake from a stop and the depress the gas.
I can tell when it will not engage as the gage flutters and is not stable. So if I move from Neutral to drive, gauge goes up to 75, but rises and falls below the nominal pressure rapidly. Once it settles the transmission engages. Settling generally can be achieve by giving it gas.
Sometimes is it is stable, but will not engage and a tap on the throttle will cause the gauge to jump and then engage.
Need to let it cool down for the EPC test I will update later today
After following this thread I can safely say the days of throwing in a "master overhaul kit" to resolve all problems are gone. I'm referring to C-4's, FMX's and C-6's in the Fords. Until I reviewed the troubleshooting pdf's that Mark shared I had no idea of how much control has been turned over to electronics. Way more than a TV rod and a vacuum modulator. I'm sure there are certifications for technicians to stay abreast of technology. Can privately owned shops access training and support equal to dealership level? Just curious.