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And what type of viewing equipment would be required to be able to "see" this imperfection, if such equipment exists? You have me extremely curious. Also, which cam lobe is the one that fails most frequently in your experience. I have an idea which one it is, but I will wait for your response before I comment.
A good machine shop or a cam shop will find it if you need them to. It's been a few years since we diagnosed it and I'm not "hands on" in the shop for almost 3 years now but if I remember correctly the defect is on the second lobe from the front. I could be wrong about that though because, like I said, it's been a while...and I've got CRS disease. I Can't Remember Shit because I've got way too much going on up there.
I'm now installing rings onto the pistons and I can't figure out the orientation of the intermediate ring. The old ring has a simple square profile while the new one had a bevel and the word "top". I'd just like a confirmation from someone who's gotten these updated rings before I proceed. Thanks ahead of time!
The interior bevel faces down with the word top facing up.
Part of the reason why my machinist pissed me off was because he neglected my warning about the flange bolts and pulled the flange anyway, without admitting it either. I opted to ask the Ford diesel rebuild shop down the street who had one pulled and was able to give me a confirmation on what I was able to observe on the flange upon inspecting it further. Diesel tech ron (RIP good sir) has been my third confirmation, so I rest easy knowing that this thing is actually going back together correctly. I'm also putting a dab of thread lock on it to replace the factory goo that I've scraped off.
Unflanged
That square dab of residue on the raised circular surface, according to ron is the crank gear square slot that should be parallel to the hole in the flange. There is also a dot at 1 o clock in the photo that lines up with the hole in the crank gear. The hole also lined up, per the confirmation of the shop, with the dowel (not shown on this pic) on the back of the flange for the flywheel.
I'd feel confident you got it. The tell tales are definitely there.
For the rings, top faces up towards the top of the piston. Did you check ring gap before assembly? Also make sure you stagard the ring gaps correctly per manual.
I discovered that the machinist had lost one of the "unique patch bolts" which cannot be substituted for the piston cooling jets, which infuriated me even further. I don't want to trash on his shop, but I'm coming across way too many of his little mistakes. It's was too late to call around, and I'm completely lost as to where I should look now, other than some core at a shop. Let me know if you guys know what I should do. So I went ahead and timed the crank and cam, along with the bed plate which took the rest of my energy to torque, I think I'm done for the day.
I'd feel confident you got it. The tell tales are definitely there.
For the rings, top faces up towards the top of the piston. Did you check ring gap before assembly? Also make sure you stagard the ring gaps correctly per manual.
I'll be sure to check ring gap today. I've forgotten how to do it though, would I need to compress them with a regular ring compressor and then use a feeler gauge?
Ok, sorry that was a stupid question, I'm pretty sure they just slide in with some oil. Now that I've refreshed myself on the procedure, I'm curious why the manual didn't list that step in the assembly procedures. I'm also not too sure about how far down the bore to test them at. I guess I'll eyeball it, unless someone can give me some insight. I did find the end gap values though, so I appreciate the advice crew dually and I will report back on what I find with these new rings.
Maybe someone else will also find this chart to be useful, so I'm posting it.
Make sure the ring goes in square. Lube it with fresh oil, slide the ring into the bore and push it down with a piston turned upside down. That applies even pressure to the ring surface. Not sure how far, but in past motors I've worked, the distance of piston travel was about equal to piston height. With the piston upside down, ring in the bore, push down until the piston skirts level with the block.... that should be close.
But I've not done a 6.0 Motor. That may be better than an eyeball? You can also try using the stroke as reference. Pull the piston, measure the gap.
Make sure the ring goes in square. Lube it with fresh oil, slide the ring into the bore and push it down with a piston turned upside down. That applies even pressure to the ring surface. Not sure how far, but in past motors I've worked, the distance of piston travel was about equal to piston height. With the piston upside down, ring in the bore, push down until the piston skirts level with the block.... that should be close.
But I've not done a 6.0 Motor. That may be better than an eyeball? You can also try using the stroke as reference. Pull the piston, measure the gap.
That's definitely a more logical way of doing it. Thanks man!
Just be careful. Use plentry of fresh oil, don't force anything, rings are normally cast and will snap. Use an old piston if you have one to avoid scratching a new one.
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