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Have a 1954 ford 239 with stock carb. The truck runs great but after I shut it off I have gas that drips at the bottom of the accelerator pump rod onto the intake. I had someone on the forum that said it needed a felt washer at the bottom of the accelerator pump rod but all the diagrams and carb kits are not showing one. Does any body have any thoughts.
If i remember right that early y still uses the same holley 94 as my flatty . never had any problems with mine leaking period except when i first put an electric pump on it set for 7lbs of pressure. Seems those old carbs are much happier at 2 lbs of pressure , oh and an occasional bought with a stuck needle and seat that a bfh would fix . i never once took mine apart even though it had set for 20 plus . .....
There is a felt and retaining washer in the main body, see pics. But there shouldn't be gas there, your float must be set too high, or maybe it's just gas percolating out after shutdown? Still likely because the float is too high.
Seems a lot of folks say that ethanol-laced, modern gasolines needs to have a bit lower float levels than the book calls for. Maybe the 94 is similar to other carbs in that the dry float setting is simply a ballpark figure, and actual fuel level needs checked/adjusted after engine reaches operating temp, and will of course be different for each engine and fuel pump etc
I am having a similar issue with a Holley 847 on a 226. Starts fine, starts fine after shutdown when hot. But give it 10 minutes when hot and it's a bear. I don't think I am leaking around the accelerator pump, rather it's almost like the engine is flooded or the bowl has to refill with the starter first. I run regular gas with lead additive. Has anyone seen fuel weep or percolation improve with pure non-ethanol gas? I keep rebuilding carbs and switching hoping for improvement but it never happens.
Gasoline is different today compared to when these trucks were made. It's my understanding a lot of the percolation has to do with a fuel tendency to vapor lock or what they call a Reid index or somesuch. Gasoline was formulated differently once fuel injection became widespread. Ethanol probably compounds the problem? So the short answer is, yes anyway can watch today's fuel boil in the carburetor and fuel pump.
Carb spacers help. Make sure ignition timing is correct and there aren't any problems with the mechanical or vacuum advance. Manifold vacuum instead of ported at the carb can help keep engine idle temps down. Retarded or slow timing is not good. Might be interesting to research what they did "back in the day" to help prevent vapor lock as far as the refining process or additives.
A lead substitute won't be of much help but maybe a small dose of Diesel, Kero, MMO, Acetone, Seafoam, etc, (who knows) something along those lines whatever works, because it's a big problem with carbureted machinery.
I am having a similar issue with a Holley 847 on a 226. Starts fine, starts fine after shutdown when hot. But give it 10 minutes when hot and it's a bear. I don't think I am leaking around the accelerator pump, rather it's almost like the engine is flooded or the bowl has to refill with the starter first. I run regular gas with lead additive. Has anyone seen fuel weep or percolation improve with pure non-ethanol gas? I keep rebuilding carbs and switching hoping for improvement but it never happens.
3twinridges, My 50 Ford V8 wouldn't start after sitting a while when hot. The power valve was leaking. I replaced it and it starts right away now Patrick
3twinridges, My 50 Ford V8 wouldn't start after sitting a while when hot. The power valve was leaking. I replaced it and it starts right away now Patrick
Thanks for that, I have a NOS power valve and will use it on the core I am rebuilding now. I have a NOS repair kit for the 847 and in the instructions it specifically says to clean everything in solvent except for the power valve. I read that after I soaked it in mineral spirits for 5 days, maybe that's my issue. Sorry to high jack thread.
Thanks for that, I have a NOS power valve and will use it on the core I am rebuilding now. I have a NOS repair kit for the 847 and in the instructions it specifically says to clean everything in solvent except for the power valve. I read that after I soaked it in mineral spirits for 5 days, maybe that's my issue. Sorry to high jack thread.
JB
Does the power valve (not the accelerator plunger) have an o-ring on it? There is a groove towards the spring that looks as though it should have an o-ring. I can't tell by looking at all of my manuals. Two different rebuild kits did not come with an o-ring. Holley 847 carb. Thank you!
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