King pin replacement
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 206
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From: Eastern NC
King pin replacement
Some searching has turned up more questions than answers. I've never done this type of mechanical work as this is the oldest vehicle I've ever worked on.
Found a couple of kits on Amazon, but unsure of the differences besides price.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=...-----------6-1
Seems like a straight forward procedure. But then I see there are different methods people have used for reaming the bushings. Some have bought a chucking reamer and done at home, some have used brake hones, some say not to use flex hones and use sunnen hones instead, and some have left the job to machinists in their areas. One big advantage(anecdotal?) of honing over reaming is the longevity of the bushing afterward.
I like doing the work myself if I can. And if buying a tool that gets the job done costs the same or less than having a shop do it, I'm usually all for it. That being said, I can't find the diameter of the pins, so I don't even know what size reamer to get if that's the way to go.
Thanks for any help.
Found a couple of kits on Amazon, but unsure of the differences besides price.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=...-----------6-1
Seems like a straight forward procedure. But then I see there are different methods people have used for reaming the bushings. Some have bought a chucking reamer and done at home, some have used brake hones, some say not to use flex hones and use sunnen hones instead, and some have left the job to machinists in their areas. One big advantage(anecdotal?) of honing over reaming is the longevity of the bushing afterward.
I like doing the work myself if I can. And if buying a tool that gets the job done costs the same or less than having a shop do it, I'm usually all for it. That being said, I can't find the diameter of the pins, so I don't even know what size reamer to get if that's the way to go.
Thanks for any help.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 367
Likes: 2
From: summerfield florida
Have a machine shop hone them to fit. They can make them fit perfectly. Probably for a price less than a reamer. Also the hone will leave a perfectly smooth bushing for the pin to pivot on. Just my opinion.,...jack
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 791
Likes: 11
From: Louisville
While there are many varieties of metals used to make bushings for various applications, to my knowledge neither king pin nor spring pin bushings are to be honed - ream only. The abrasives left behind by a hone (and embedded in the pores of the metal) will be detrimental to the life of the bushings. You'll need a reamer that has a tapered guide to ensure both bushings are on a common center.
To be frank, I've done hundreds of king pins over the years and have found that most often the bushings are in good shape, it's typically the the thrust bearings that are worn (they carry the weight of the vehicle.) Typically, lateral movement of either bushing should be less than .008" . Vertical play normally .001" - .012" . When assembling it is important that the seam of the bushings be installed to either the front or rear quadrant of the knuckle's bore (as seen with the spindle parallel to the axle.) Also, the shims are never installed below the axle, and the bearing always is. The draw pin (the cross bolt that secures the pin) is installed with a hammer, torqued to spec, then hammered again and final torque checked once again.
To be frank, I've done hundreds of king pins over the years and have found that most often the bushings are in good shape, it's typically the the thrust bearings that are worn (they carry the weight of the vehicle.) Typically, lateral movement of either bushing should be less than .008" . Vertical play normally .001" - .012" . When assembling it is important that the seam of the bushings be installed to either the front or rear quadrant of the knuckle's bore (as seen with the spindle parallel to the axle.) Also, the shims are never installed below the axle, and the bearing always is. The draw pin (the cross bolt that secures the pin) is installed with a hammer, torqued to spec, then hammered again and final torque checked once again.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 215
Likes: 2
Thanks for the voice of experience, CBeav, very helpful -- I'm doing mine now. And yes, the bushings were in good shape. Only one -- lower passenger side -- had any observable play, and that was just barely enough to make it worthwhile doing the job. But I'm putting in disc brakes, so might as well go through it all while you're there. BUT, when it came to the bearings, there were no ***** in the races, on either side! ?? The shims were installed wrong on one side but not the other. I didn't find any ground-up metal in either bearing, so, pardon my French, but I said a quiet w.t.f.? Whatever, I got a precision kit from CPP with ***** in the bearings and it's going together right this time -- expecting a considerable improvement when all is righteous. Maybe this belongs in the 'previous owner' thread....
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 791
Likes: 11
From: Louisville
Yeah, I've seen what must have been some el cheapo king pin sets that relied on a babbited washer instead of ball bearings. I dunno, maybe they were more prevalent before ball bearings became inexpensive enough for common use? It's been a long time though, if you hadn't mentioned it I doubt I would ever have recalled them on my own.
The shims against the bearings isn't a huge issue but the thin metal can't take that much load for very long before squashing and allowing increased clearance. #1 cause for king pin wear is contamination - same for spring pins. When greasing don't be cheap - pump grease in them until fresh grease comes out.
The shims against the bearings isn't a huge issue but the thin metal can't take that much load for very long before squashing and allowing increased clearance. #1 cause for king pin wear is contamination - same for spring pins. When greasing don't be cheap - pump grease in them until fresh grease comes out.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 206
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From: Eastern NC
Thanks for the info!
I jacked up the truck a couple of months ago and quickly grabbed the tire trying to check for play. WOAH!! It was a lot. Explains why it's a handful on the road. Hopefully this will help restore the stock ride. But I'll try to differentiate between the bushing, and bearing to see if I don't need the whole kit.
I jacked up the truck a couple of months ago and quickly grabbed the tire trying to check for play. WOAH!! It was a lot. Explains why it's a handful on the road. Hopefully this will help restore the stock ride. But I'll try to differentiate between the bushing, and bearing to see if I don't need the whole kit.
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 555
Likes: 5
From: Marysville, WA
I did my own king pins, bought the reamer from Speedway I think which was expensive but I am younger and should have it forever.
One shop I called in Everett WA wanted $600 to do the king pins!!!! I asked if it would be cheaper for me to bring the pieces in and they said it would be the same price!!!!
Another off road shop in Marysville said $300!!!
One shop I called in Everett WA wanted $600 to do the king pins!!!! I asked if it would be cheaper for me to bring the pieces in and they said it would be the same price!!!!
Another off road shop in Marysville said $300!!!
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Rockingham, VA
I took my spindles, new king pins and bushings to a local shop. He charged me $80, which I thought was high, but the job was done perfectly so the pins fit right.
Mine were badly worn, both spindles and bushings. The new parts corrected my steering problems (along with new front tires).
Mine were badly worn, both spindles and bushings. The new parts corrected my steering problems (along with new front tires).
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 111
From: southwest missouri
Try your local farm tractor shop or something in that order I have a customer that is a tractor shop and they did them with tractors they do them all the time. Oh Yh !!! cbeav I did finally find a torque hammer 
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