I took the front end of a 76 to use the disc brakes and all. I cleaned the Ibeams, the spindles and radius arms and painted everything. I bought a king pin set for a 76 at NAPA with metal bushings (because I thought metal sounded better than nylon). Having no experience, I installed the bushings into the spindle and then realized there was no way to pound the king pins in with a hammer. I then took it to a shop and asked to have the king pins pressed in while I went away on business. All week I dreamed of FINALLY putting something ON my 66 - the big swing in the project, the first pieces to go on instead of coming off.... new poly bushings in that beautiful bright red... but to my dismay, the shop owner told me that he can't press the king pins in or else the wheel won't turn - they are too tight. He said I have to take it to a machine shop and have them "fit" the king pins to the bushings. It just seems wrong. It seems like I should have been able to use the NAPA parts and happily been to the next step in my project. Instead, I am still in the exact same place I have been for about 4 weeks and I NEED help!

Is the shop guy right, did I get the wrong parts, or should I just go spend another $50 and get a set of king pins with nylon bushings? Help is greatly appreciated.

 

He is right.
The metal bronze bushings have to be reamed to precisely the exact diameter of the pins, to keep the tolerances very tight.
Take it to a machine shop which can do, it, and you'll be pleased with the result.

 

Just had to have the front end of a '73 donor king pins and axle pivot bushings replace/pressed in. Machine shop did the precise honing for the kingpins and then install. Same here, I'm still looking forward to the day where I actually install something for the big PDB + PS conversion........a never ending song of clean up and sand and repaint and now fix the next item that you hadn't planned on and repeat .

Good luck!

 

Samve your money. You can use a brake hone to hone those bushings (once installed into the spindles) Use plenty of lube and check often. You want the pins to have a friction fit but not have to beat them in. I did mine when I first bought the truck and it worked great.

 

Teflon! This material will last as long as the metal bushings, don't require reaming and can be installed with your fingers.

 

I'm wanting to do the same I found this in the Articles area it goes into detail and may save some $$$ and exclamatories.. BOL, Redmanbob

https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...rd_Trucks.html

 

Redmanbob, There are flaws in that article. There are a couple different paths to follow for the upgrades. I prefer buying a donor truck, one that you have checked out kingpin wear and swapping everything over to your truck. Lift the front wheel off the ground and test for movement with a hand at the top and bottom of the tire. The kingpins are hinge pins and a slight movement will get by.

When you have the donor and swap everything over you can save a lot of headaches trying to do it by the piece. I have read hundreds of posts on this issue, on this forum. There are guys that are mechanicaly inclined that can get by doing the spindle out upgrade, but IMHO isn't for everyone. There are some that feel everything needs to be new and that is ok, but unless there is slop in that area or they are frozen I'd install and run them.

I run a total swap 76 I-beam setup in my 66, that was done about 5 years ago.

John

 

John I'm not going to do this for a little while but I'd be very interested in any advice, picts, etc.... you might have aside from that already given.. This is something Ive never attempted. The truck was purchased as a daily driver for work and groceries 30 miles a week total maybe.. But mot of all for CAMPING!! I have a 1961 Glasspar SeaFair Sedan that will be towed behind her when she's ready approx 1450-1800lbs depending on gas/items load. This will be going through the Kern River mountain side so it has to function or oops..I will glady get you my email ,Redmanbob

 

Bob, My suggestion, You have an opportunity for a complete remake. There are two different paths that you can go down.
1- You can swap all of the nessessary parts under your current truck.
2- You can swap your current sheetmetal over to the donor chassis.

I have 76 donor parts under my 66, and at the time (5 years ago) didn't know what I know now about swap and fit.

First thing for you is to decide how you want your truck to end up (Make a Plan) What kind of engine, tranny, 2wd/4wd do you want to drive when your project is complete. Once you have settled on the project, start looking for your donor truck in the 73-79 model years for direct bolt up or later if your skill level is higher. 76 was the last year for the FE engine, 77-79 used the M engine. I don't know about the new 04 but looked under a 97 once in the showroom and was suprised how simular the mount points looked to the 66.

Take your time looking, you can't do all of the work in a weekend so have a place close by to store your parts and to work in. I would caution if you don't have a place to work on the truck or if your wife or neighbors wont let you bring it home, and store it for the few months that it will take to complete the project look for another truck.

I have a pretty complete truck ready to assemble, chassis upgraded and painted, engine/tranny built, but haven't done anything to it in 4 years or more. (Don't buy a second truck)

Anyway make a plan, and start working it.

my 2 coppers worth

John

 

Camping and dragging a boat! I'd just upgrade the master cylinder to a dual chamber and add a vacuum assist booster. This gets you power drum/drum and the added safety of a dual circuit braking system. Add new rubber lines, a careful inspection of the existing components (drums, cylinders, shoes, return springs, lines) and have at it. As far as king pins go, unless yours are worn out and the tires are showing wear, just grease them. Grease will tighten up a king pin and make steering easier. Later if you decide that this is the truck! Follow John's advice and do the frame swap/restoration and keep the truck for the rest of your life!

 

Being older and a Machinist it is still my opinion you will be more satisified if you use the metal bushings and have them sized at a Machine shop. Just my opinion based upon a few years of experience.

 

Upgrading the single resevoir to a dual and adding a vacuum pump sounds great actually at least for now.. less $$ .. get these new or ? donor ?

 

You need to go to a Junk Yard and get a Ford booster bracket (step bracket), the flat bar pedal to bracket link and a pedal with the wider power brake pedal. You will find these parts on 70's vintage F100's. Shorten the flat link by drilling a new hole about one inch in from the end, then saw off the excess. Buy or snag a 9 inch booster. Buy a dual chamber MC designed for a drum brake system (both chambers will be the same size). Buy a combination valve designed for a drum/drum application (splitter). Install the parts and make a few new brake lines and your in business. Not quite that simple but certainly not a difficult project. I'd suggest you buy the catalog from Master power Brakes. They have a web site at mpbrakesdotcom. Their catalog is actually a nice "how to" manual on these types of after market conversions. You can also buy the parts I mentioned in Kit form from these folks. The kits are a bit spendy but really nice. The catalog is a bargain at 5 bucks. Do a search in this forum for "brakes" for much additional information. Post back we can help!

 

A brake hone someone posted will make for bell mouthed bushings impregnated with grit and not concenrtic to each bushing. that's one step up from a rat tail file MHO. Go to a shop that has a King Pin Reamer and knows how to use one not an automotive shop that stone hones. Done properly you'll have thumb press with full bushing contact that will last over 500K miles. With attention to wheel bearings, beam bend camber correction and alignment, tire balance and a quality shocks you'll be surprised how nice the truck will steer down the road with very few corrections.
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