Loud grinding coming from driver side
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Loud grinding coming from driver side
I have a 86 f250 4x4 7.5 xl
I've been hearing a noise coming from the drive side area you can feel it though the floor boards. It starts to make noise around 25-30 mile an hour.
I've read post but it all talks about turning it makes the noise go driving forward with no turns.
I've check out the ball joint checked out the front axle not sure if anyone has more ideals thanks for reading
I've been hearing a noise coming from the drive side area you can feel it though the floor boards. It starts to make noise around 25-30 mile an hour.
I've read post but it all talks about turning it makes the noise go driving forward with no turns.
I've check out the ball joint checked out the front axle not sure if anyone has more ideals thanks for reading
pedant
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Posting Guru
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Unless both front rim/tire assemblies have been recently balanced, switching them really wouldn't be a good indicator as each of them may have individual issues respectfully. I would have to agree with the responses that it points to the wheel bearing(s). If you replace one side...replace the other side also. Keep the front end symmetrical.
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I've run down brake pads too far and caused a horrible racket. Severely worn pads generally make more noise when the brakes are applied, but who knows. Debris trapped under brake pads can also cause lots of noise. Do you happen to have aftermarket GM-style pads with the wear limit squealers? Wouldn't cost anything to inspect the pads, and they've got to come off anyway to access the wheel bearings.
I've had wheel bearings fail, but that was more of a low rumbling noise. Slop in the steering (especially on freeway ruts) was more apparent than the noise. That's what had me leaning more towards the brakes.
Posting Guru
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When you apply the brake, the noise will slow down because the brake caliper is
"truing up" the rotor and bearing(s) to be in-line. Like a horse with blinders on. The caliper, with pad is "fixed", compressing the rotor, causing it to run "true", therefore causing the bearing to run the same. Without compression, the worn bearing is allowed to falter at will. Wow....I hope this makes sense.
"truing up" the rotor and bearing(s) to be in-line. Like a horse with blinders on. The caliper, with pad is "fixed", compressing the rotor, causing it to run "true", therefore causing the bearing to run the same. Without compression, the worn bearing is allowed to falter at will. Wow....I hope this makes sense.
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From: Angier, NC
When you apply the brake, the noise will slow down because the brake caliper is
"truing up" the rotor and bearing(s) to be in-line. Like a horse with blinders on. The caliper, with pad is "fixed", compressing the rotor, causing it to run "true", therefore causing the bearing to run the same. Without compression, the worn bearing is allowed to falter at will. Wow....I hope this makes sense.
"truing up" the rotor and bearing(s) to be in-line. Like a horse with blinders on. The caliper, with pad is "fixed", compressing the rotor, causing it to run "true", therefore causing the bearing to run the same. Without compression, the worn bearing is allowed to falter at will. Wow....I hope this makes sense.
To me it does: brakes applied act as aguide to make the rotor run true as you said.
No brakes applied the rotor & wheelbearing run willie nillie and make noise.
Dave ----
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