What to try next?
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What to try next?
Strange noise comming from sounds like front right wheel area. Noise is more of a creak than a squeal. Noise is more noticable at slow speeds and is louder when brakes are being applied. Mecanic has checked brakes and replaced left front axle boot that was cracked. Truck drives, handles, and brakes with no problems--but this noise is making me crazy. Noise does not growl like a bearing, but more of a bushing and seems motion related even driving and stopping straight on level ground. Have read about rust on outer rotors rubbing brake pads, is this familiar? Sorry for long post, but I am very frustrated and open to suggestions. Truck is 2000 F150 4wd 84k miles. Thanks for any help.
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if it happens when you are moving down the road in a striaght line, slightly apply the brakes to get a little drag. if it is in the brakes or pads, the noise will go away, or change pitch. if it is an axle bearing or universal joint type noise, it will not change. i assume you have tried to turn or hit a bump and see if the noise changes any. you have to be moving? this is not a noise that occures at standstill if you bounce the front end up and down?
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Steve--this is a motion related noise that can be heard at slower speeds like when comming to a stop. The pitch of the noise seems to go deeper when the brakes are applied. It is a moving part that seems to have a certian spot that makes this noise faster or slower depending on speed. Sounds like a noise when you push down on the front end, but this has to do with something that is rotating. Thanks
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From: BC, Canada
A bad ball joint or tie rod end can make the same sort of noise. As you apply the brakes it compresses the suspension as well as trying to move it forward or backwards depending on where in the suspension the force is being applied.
Open one of the doors and have someone push up and down on the top of it to rock the suspension and see if you can hear the noise that way.
Open one of the doors and have someone push up and down on the top of it to rock the suspension and see if you can hear the noise that way.
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I wouldn't rule out the bearing. Mine was starting to make noise, and I thought it was the brakes, because of the high pitch, tinny, light grindy sound. No growling/rumbling. If it does it on flat terrain, with no turns, and it's constant, I'd look at the bearing. Rob
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Thanks for info. Put the truck on rack and can not duplicate noise by putting in 4wd and applying brakes. Truck must need to be under load if this info helps. Is the only test for bad ball joints the wiggle wheel test or are there others? How do I examine the tie rod ends for problems? Again thanks for your suggestions and input.
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To check the ball joints, pick up the truck by the frame so the tires come off the ground a couple inches. Get a long bar and put it under the tire so you have plenty of leverage to lift. Lift on the tire while watching the ball joints for movement. Tie rod test is wiggle each tire side to side, feel for play.
BTW, with the tires off the ground, there's no weight on the bearings, and if you didn't hear anything, that should rule out the brakes.
BTW, with the tires off the ground, there's no weight on the bearings, and if you didn't hear anything, that should rule out the brakes.
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Thanks Rob-- is there a way to rule out the bearings or a simple test to do? From the drivers side it sounds like front right, but I can't be for sure with door open and road noise. If it is bearings is is ok to go with salvage yard as I think I've read this is one unit only. Any thoughts? Thanks
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Being that wheel bearings are an easy install and are only 10 to 15 bucks, I'd say the easiest way to rule them out is to change them.
I wonder if it could be the CV joint, but I guess that would probably make a noise wether it was under load or not.
I wonder if it could be the CV joint, but I guess that would probably make a noise wether it was under load or not.
Last edited by mat-helm; Jan 17, 2006 at 05:13 PM.
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matt--replaced left front cv because of torn boot, right front looks fine and does not make a popping noise like I thinking cvs do. The wheel bearings are that simple and inexpesive? I was thinking the bearings and hub were an all in one unit and were not simply replacable on 2000 f-150 4wd. I hope you are correct, can you explain or clear this up? I'm sorry you may have to talk to me like a kid not holding the flashlight still for his dad.
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I've replaced many a wheel bearing, but I havn't had to do it on a 97 or newer F150. It looks like just a regular hub to me and I know advance sells bearing sets for them ( 10 to 15 bucks). If you decide to change the bearings (it's easy) just say the word and myself or someone will go into more detail on it.
I have to confess that I havn't read every word in this thread, but did you mention before that you just changed the cv joint? If not, was the noise there before you changed it?
I have to confess that I havn't read every word in this thread, but did you mention before that you just changed the cv joint? If not, was the noise there before you changed it?
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Thanks matt--Yes I replaced left front cv because of torn boot and was thinking that might take care of noise problem also, but the noise is still there. Could the right cv look good but be bad even though everything is sealed up? If I search for bearings on a parts website it takes me to a hub assembly($150-$190) whats the deal? I don't have a problem with easy cheap replacement to try and fix noise, but for big bucks can I rule this possible bearing noise out some way?
Hotshot
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the front wheels bearings on a new 4 x 4 are sealed units. if you replaced the CV joint you saw that. you take the tire and wheel off, remove the 3 of 15 mm bolts on the backside of the upright and pull the hub and bearing unit out. the bearaings are inside and part of the hub. look around, i think about $250 is the going price. the inside is splined and the alxe shaft slides into it. i dont think i would get one at junk yard. you might get just a year or two and same trouble.?????
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with tire off gound, you might be able to turn wheel by hand and test the bearing and CV joint, depending on how bad it is. listen for little noises.. also the splinged shaft slides into the hub, did you put anti sieze on the splines, maybe some noise in that?
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I'll have to bow to steve here. But Advance list the hub assembly for $153 ( would defently check the ball joints before I spent that kind of money ). It's against the "terms of service" to post links here, even if sent through e mail or private message ( I just got a warning e mail ) but I think I can say that all the major parts houses have web sites..