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upper hood nut is stripped

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Old 05-02-2016, 02:37 PM
jerryst jerryst is offline
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upper hood nut is stripped

I have a 1955 Ford F100. My problem is the upper hood nut on the driver side is stripped. I called mid fifty to ask about their captive hood nut repair kit. I was advised that this kit may not repair my problem. I know its very difficult to get to the nut behind the brace. My only options are to try and retap the nut, or heli coil it. Any one know any tricks or if the captive nut kit works and how to do it. the instructions on mid fifty confuse my simple mind .

Thanks

Jerry
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Old 05-02-2016, 03:09 PM
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I had a mate mill up a bit of round bar, tapped a thread into it and tacked it on. worked fine. Might be an option?
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:38 AM
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petemcl petemcl is offline
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I assume that this is a caged nut? Usually when I have tried to tap them the cage breaks the the nut just spins. But you should at least gently try that with plenty of lube.

Your other alternative is to drill a hole large enough to get the old cage nut out beside the current nut. Then drill out the welds (2 or 3) with a smaller bit. Buy the correct size replacement caged nut (just Google it for your closest source). Fish it into the large hole. Align it and tack weld it in place through the smaller holes you drilled. Grind the surface smooth and repaint it. You might want to use anti-seize compound on the bolts when you put it back in.
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Old 05-05-2016, 12:13 PM
1956_F100 1956_F100 is offline
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I haven't taken a close look. If your idea of a heli-coil doesn't work, I would think a new Rivnut would work.
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Old 05-05-2016, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1956_F100 View Post
I haven't taken a close look. If your idea of a heli-coil doesn't work, I would think a new Rivnut would work.
Good idea if you can drill out that old caged nut but usually they spin.
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Old 05-05-2016, 02:11 PM
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First off this is not a caged nut...the nut is tacked in place. Easiest way to repair is to drill and tap existing nut to the next larger size. Any repair while the hood is installed is more difficult. My preference is to remove the hood, remove the stripped nut and weld a new one in its place. Any heat damage to the paint is easily repaired since the nut is located on a bracket which is relatively isolated from the skin of the hood.
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Old 05-05-2016, 06:20 PM
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You could used a threaded insert, not sure if they are available in fine thread, but they do work well. I just installed some today for my tailgate supports and have used them in other places as well..
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Old 05-06-2016, 01:26 PM
jerryst jerryst is offline
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The problem is that the nut on the top of the hood cant be reached. Mid Fifty sells a nut sert that goes into the hole after you take off the nut. I tried to retap the nut but it wont work. Looks like I have to chisel out nut and buy the kit from mid fifty. Anyone know if the 56 and up hood bolt is a larger theread then the 55 hood bolts? Reason is if the thread is larger I can try tapping the hood nut and replace it with a 56 bolt.

Thanks

Jerry
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Old 05-06-2016, 01:30 PM
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Drill out the nut and weld in a new one. Done correctly this will not damage the paint too much and should be easily touched up.
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Old 05-06-2016, 03:23 PM
truckeemtnfords truckeemtnfords is offline
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For my missing nuts on the hood I made small spacers that mimic the shoulder on the original bolts. These were placed in the hinge holes and the hood was bolted on using regular bolts and nuts. The hinge then pivoted around these spacers just like it does on the original shoulder bolt. The new bolts could be tightened as tight as you you wanted because the spacer allowed the hood to pivot without issue. No welding and the spacer rotated on the new bolt and the hinge (two places as opposed to the one on the shoulder of the original bolt) so the hood moved smother than factory.
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Old 05-08-2016, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truckeemtnfords View Post
For my missing nuts on the hood I made small spacers that mimic the shoulder on the original bolts. These were placed in the hinge holes and the hood was bolted on using regular bolts and nuts. The hinge then pivoted around these spacers just like it does on the original shoulder bolt. The new bolts could be tightened as tight as you you wanted because the spacer allowed the hood to pivot without issue. No welding and the spacer rotated on the new bolt and the hinge (two places as opposed to the one on the shoulder of the original bolt) so the hood moved smother than factory.
I have done this too and it works very well.
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Old 05-10-2016, 01:56 AM
jerryst jerryst is offline
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Thanks for all the information on my hood bolt problem. I am going to take the hood off and see if I can either retap the nut or take it off. I will probably use the hood nut repair kit from mid fifty if the tapping does not work.

Thanks
Jerry
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