Okay, bad news. My distributor noise has returned. As you might have seen from another post of mine, I just replaced the power valve in the carburetor, and it works on vacuum. So I have some questions.


First- could the power valve cause a change large enough to the vacuum system to where I need to screw in the vacuum brake some more? This is what I did the first time it made noise and it worked. (Fred said it was the weights moving, and he was right)


Second- Do I go another turn with it? Just how far can you go with that?


Steve

 

I'd do this on a cold engine simply because touching hot parts is no fun.

Loosen the jam nut on the vacuum brake adjustment. Back the vacuum brake adjustment all the way out with your fingers. Now run the adjustment back in and try to feel when the spring contacts the adjuster. Turn 1/2 to 1 turn more and tighten the jam nut. Test run the engine.

If the above doesn't get you where you need, go ahead and adjust the brake down a bit. I don't like to go more than 1/3 down initially. Driving the car will tell you if you need more ignition timing retard when you are pulling power on a hill.

 

Okay, I'll try it. When you say "if I need more ignition timing retard", you are talking about tightening the brake further, not moving the adjustment on the side of the passenger side of the distributor, correct? Moving that side adjustment is when the "timing jig" is needed, right? I hope I can tell when driving it- since its a little on the "tired" side to start with and wasn't a stellar hill climber prior to this dist. swap.

 

Correct, tightening down the vacuum brake helps if your motor pings under load, like driving up a hill.

I don't use a timing jig to set these up. I have the unusual advantage that dad used to have one of the official Hyer-Ford distributor machines. He rebuilt all the distributors for the local Early Ford V8 Club. He got to thinking about it. The machine goes through the same steps in the same order every time. It was setting the distributors the same every time. Dad wrote down the settings and sold the machine.

The advance on the side is usually happy about 4 to 6 degrees advanced, or 2 to 3 marks clockwise of center. On some engines you can run the advance adjustment on the side all the way advanced with good results.

 

The re-man dist. had the advance setting set at the same mark as the original one- I compared them prior to sending it back for the core charge. Unfortunately, I can't remember where it was set. I'll have to look tomorrow to see if its the two or three marks clockwise.


I guess I'm just not familiar enough with these to fully understand the "settings" with the jig and just moving the adjustment up and down. I can move the side adjuster all the way advanced without the use of the jig? What is the jig measuring?


I've timed "modern" engines with a timing light and my Model T's are entirely manual advance and retard! I just can't seem to get my head around the jig procedure.


Which engines can run the advance all the way? Hopped up ones or do stock engines respond okay? Maybe mine is not advanced enough to start with??


I'll let you know where mine is set at.


Steve

 

I checked my timing marks. It appears that I have seven marks for adjustment and it is currently set on the first one below center.


So this dist. is not set at the 4-6 degrees advanced?


Steve

 

I try to avoid using the words "above" and "below" center when talking about front mount Ford V8 distributors. The location of the manual advance changed between the 32-41 helmet distributors and the 42-48 crab distributors. To advance the timing the adjustment is moved clockwise, as viewed from the front of the engine looking back. Your adjustment should be approximately 1-2 notches clockwise of the longer center notch.

There are two factory authorized ways to set these distributors. The preferred method used a large distributor machine, the acceptable method used the manual timing jig. The purpose of these is to set the point gap according to dwell, and if you have the Lincoln-Zephyr unit, the timing between the two sets of points. Since I don't mess with the dual coil Zephyr units I just make sure all bushings are good with no slop, the point cam doesn't have run-out (I had a distributor where this caused problems), the advance mechanism has no wear, everything is properly lubricated, the points are gapped properly, and the advance is about 4 degrees. I typically set the vacuum brake all the way out and adjust it in as required to prevent engine pinging.

 

I ran it today, using the full range of the vacuum brake screw, and I had that noise the whole time. I then called Charlie Schwendler and asked some distributor questions. Something must be wobbling, rubbing, grinding, etc. in there, probably due to a poor rebuild. The bottom line, apparently, is that most re-man stuff is junk. Or, at least the one I got is.







So, so since its a guarantee lately that I have to do everything twice..., I'm going to remove this one tomorrow and buy one of Charlies units. If it was the middle of winter and I had time, I'd take this apart and try to see what was going on with it, if I could. (I would like to learn more about these things.) I don't like paying for things twice either, but since the driving season here in the northeast is a ridiculously short one, I want to drive the thing instead of constantly working on it and getting nowhere. The thing hasn't been much fun as of late.

Hopefully this other unit will get it straightened out. Sometimes some hands-on by somebody else who has more experience is the answer. I appreciate the advice given so far. And since these flat heads are all new to me, I'll have more questions on every other topic I'm sure! -Steve

 

"Have to do everything twice"

Sure seems that way don't it? Bought a "restored" LawnBoy (the older ones are lightweight) a while back cuz I like 'em. It seemed to run OK, but soon started flooding out and fouling plugs so downloaded the manual and "Get Smart" docs and read the forums; needed to rebuild the carburetor and install a new inlet valve and seat. Carburetor float height totally wrong, and was installed upside down.

We'll see about the seals and bushings and the rest of it. Wheels wobbly, etc.

Fuçkers just slap a coat of paint on something these days and call it "restored". No attention to detail, or accepted maintenance practices.

 

I figured I'd update everyone on my dist. problem.

I'm happy to say it appears to be solved. I purchased a rebuilt one from Charlie Shwendler and it makes no noise! I also got a power valve for the carburetor from Charlie and the two items have made all the difference.

Thanks to everyone who offered advice and got me in contact with Charlie.

Steve

 

Good to hear you have resolution. Now we need pictures or video from you driving your V8!

 

Hi Fred,

I'll have to work on some pictures! I'm supposed to be in the local 4th of July parade with it. Stay tuned...

Steve