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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Tailight problems 65'

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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 12:14 PM
  #16  
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Hello and thanks all. Went to schucks yesterday. Asked for the coil and the bending/flaring tools. The dude laughed at me and said if i dont have the mc line identical to the old one my pressure will be off in the front. I knew about this but thought that i could get it identical enough... Anyways he told me about haggens in puyallup. I guess they have the complete pre bent front brake line set. I guess ill replace em all while im at it.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 12:16 PM
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Also have power at the fuse block on both ends of the fuse for taillights. I guess next step is the column?..
 
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Seahawks24
Hello and thanks all. Went to schucks yesterday. Asked for the coil and the bending/flaring tools. The dude laughed at me and said if i dont have the mc line identical to the old one my pressure will be off in the front.
You're replacing ALL of the brake line, right?? Nod your head "Yes...."

Use the same size that's on there now. Tell the goober behind the counter to STFU and fill your order.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Seahawks24
Hello and thanks all. Went to schucks yesterday. Asked for the coil and the bending/flaring tools. The dude laughed at me and said if i dont have the mc line identical to the old one my pressure will be off in the front. I knew about this but thought that i could get it identical enough... Anyways he told me about haggens in puyallup. I guess they have the complete pre bent front brake line set. I guess ill replace em all while im at it.
I have no idea what the parts guy was talking about...made no sense to me, but do go ahead and replace all brake lines and hoses....it ain't that big of a job. I have a '65 F250 and it's all 3/16 brake line. The distribution block is on the frame rail under the driver's door. It's designed to give all four wheels equal brake pressure no matter how long you cut the new lines.

If you're flaring line for the first time then practice a couple times before you get under the truck. If you end up getting the pre-bent and it turns out to be stainless then you might need to read up on how to tighten the fittings so they don't leak. And if it is stainless then I recommend you do not make your own flares. Flaring stainless can be tricky and split if not done right.
 
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Old May 1, 2016 | 09:20 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Seahawks24
Also have power at the fuse block on both ends of the fuse for taillights. I guess next step is the column?..
A fuse in good shape is like a piece of wire. No matter where you check a piece of wire along it's length - at any given moment voltage should be the same anywhere along that wire with respect to ground. So, in my mind having a similar/same voltage reading on both ends of a fuse seems like it would be 100% correct. But, I may be misunderstanding what test you are running.

I'm not saying it is or isn't the column switch or a short inside of the column, but what you described above sounds OK to me. And maybe that's what you meant, that tests OK, so moving on to the column. I went to the ER yesterday (non injury, non life-threatening) so was probably not thinking clearly. Lol

.
 
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Old May 3, 2016 | 11:32 AM
  #21  
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�� I grabbed the bull by the horns and told the dude to just sell me the roll of brake line. I was surprised how easy it is to bend. Almost didnt need the bender.. So i installed my mc brake line but havent been able to break the bleeder screws loose to bleed the breaks yet. I dont think anyone has bleed them yet. Im surprised at how well it brakes regardless. Also cleaned up all my connections heading to my taillights. In the end was reearded with drivers side tails and blinker. Still cant figure out passenger side. Think i need that switch in the column. Anyways.. Making progress
 
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Old May 3, 2016 | 11:33 AM
  #22  
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Anyone know how to test that passenger side switch or how to get to it? Ha thanks all & have a good one
 
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Old May 3, 2016 | 01:54 PM
  #23  
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I don't think there is a separate switch for driver side vs passenger side. The only switch is in the column and the only flasher is under the dash...not far from the steering column.


Agree with you on strength of brakes on a '65 F250. People talk down about manual drum brakes and yes you have to press a little harder but it's not a huge difference. If you put on new shoes they'll be a little weak the first couple times unless you get them "pre-arched". All my other cars ('02 3/4 ton truck, '07 police interceptor, and '00 mustang) have four corner disk brakes. Using those cars for comparison, I've never felt under-braked in my '65 F250.
 
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Old May 3, 2016 | 09:36 PM
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Ya i swear they can brake without fluid ha. When i first un seized my mc cap and looked in there it was dry
 
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Old May 3, 2016 | 11:00 PM
  #25  
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Just got through snaking new tailight wiring in my 64 (this runs from the connector right near the M/C, all the way back to the tail-light harness connectors.) About $50 from Mac's. It's a "new item". Good thing too, cuz it sure needed it. Fits 61-66 #48-370967-1

Was checking lighting last week and noticed the pass side running light was inop. Must be a bulb, right? Plugged around with the tailight assy and connectors for a little while. No such luck. €%#$!!!

What the problem was, though was more serious the wire itself in the harness had become brittle in spots near the tail and had broken right before the SAE connector. Wire corroded, falling apart. Tried splicing it as a temp repair but could tell that was a mickey mouse deal, and it kept blowing 14 amp fuses anyway. Almost seems like there might have been some low level "leakage" or short going on elsewhere too. Somethin'.

Dash lights are noticeably brighter with the new harness and the blinkers are nice and zippy. Must have been LOTS of voltage drop lol. Not saying this is your problem, but fresh wiring sure keeps them electrons happy. Swear it even runs better.
 
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