Tailight problems 65'
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Tailight problems 65'
Does anyone have experience with there tailight wiring might be able to shoot me a few pointers?
I just brought a 65 f250 home. Tailights dont work. Bulbs are good. Running lights are good front and back. Blinkers are good in front but passenger side rear is out. So i have power from 1 wire at the mc pressure switch. When i bridge the wires there and touch to the contact with the key on 1 tailight comes on... I hate wiring..
I just brought a 65 f250 home. Tailights dont work. Bulbs are good. Running lights are good front and back. Blinkers are good in front but passenger side rear is out. So i have power from 1 wire at the mc pressure switch. When i bridge the wires there and touch to the contact with the key on 1 tailight comes on... I hate wiring..
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,066
Likes: 1,616
From: Seattle
The ground for the taillights comes through the body of the truck and the screws that hold the taillight housing to the truck. What I sometimes do is hook a wire to the negative terminal of the battery that is long enough to reach the taillights and use it as a temporary ground to see if that is it. I'll also use my multi-meter to see if I have at or near zero ohms of resistance between that wire and the housing. If it's more than a scant ohm or two then you know it's a weak ground.
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Ok thanks. Im just wondering why both tailights didnt come on when i bridged the wires at the mc switch. You think that might be from a bad ground? I also read that the taillights and blinkers run thru the same switch in the steering column.. Maybe thats why my passenger side taillight didnt come on.. Cuz the blinker is out? I dunno
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Seahawks24 Welcome to 
and the Slicks Forum. 
There are 3 wires that go to the rear of the truck. One is the tails and the other are the turn signals that share with the brakes. There is a factory plug just off the rear of the drivers side frame rail. I recommend unplugging the connection and while using a test light see if they have power. If yes then start heading down hill. Many times a trailer light connection has been wired in and it can become a concern. Many times it is dirty sockets.
It can take a few minutes but is not rocket science.
Guluk
John
and the Slicks Forum. There are 3 wires that go to the rear of the truck. One is the tails and the other are the turn signals that share with the brakes. There is a factory plug just off the rear of the drivers side frame rail. I recommend unplugging the connection and while using a test light see if they have power. If yes then start heading down hill. Many times a trailer light connection has been wired in and it can become a concern. Many times it is dirty sockets.
It can take a few minutes but is not rocket science.
Guluk
John
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,066
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From: Seattle
To me, this sounds like a similar issue. It costs nothing to run the test, provided you have a multimeter available. In addition to what John said.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ght-issue.html
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ght-issue.html
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Thanks guys. I found a few minutes yesterday to dink around with my multimeter. I went to the mc switch again. Am i only suppose to have power from one red wire? I assume the other one heats up once the pressure is there in the mc and trips the switch?
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Migrane
Thanks guys for the help. I seem to be going backwards though with the restoration. I noticed my brake line leaking a lil at the mc. So naturally i tried to tighten a little... Bad idea. It twisted off. I shouldve used my brain and realized 50 year old brake lines are delicate. Does anyone know were to get a hold of the mc brake line with the fitting for the mc.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Probably the easiest way is to buy a coil of line at NAPA and "roll yer own", rent a flaring tool. Replace the hoses and cylinders while you are at it.
You might find a new brake wire harness a beautiful thing too. Mac's (and others probably) sells one that connects from the firewall to the back of the truck for about 50 bucks. The problem is the wiring itself and connectors get corroded and brittle and start breaking if you look at them sideways.
You might find a new brake wire harness a beautiful thing too. Mac's (and others probably) sells one that connects from the firewall to the back of the truck for about 50 bucks. The problem is the wiring itself and connectors get corroded and brittle and start breaking if you look at them sideways.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,672
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X2 on getting a roll of bulk line from Napa. Their "EZ bend" is pretty easy to work with...can dang near wrap it around your finger. It's a lot more corrosion resistant than what they sold just a few years ago too. As you run line from the MC, make a couple loops (like you wrapped it around a soup can) to handle any flex from the cab to the frame. Get all new hoses while you're at it.
For the fittings, take what's left of your old one to Napa and find a new one...preferably steel....not brass.
For the fittings, take what's left of your old one to Napa and find a new one...preferably steel....not brass.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Suggest check for grounded circuit on the tail light that's not working, on 1 occasion found the contact pins in the bulb socket was corroded and was grounding out the circuit.
Yes, tracing electrical gremlins on 50 plus year wiring harness can be a major pain in the backside, majority of the Ford part supplier's offer the wiring manual, if more than $10 suggest purchase from source; Jim Osborn Reproductions, Inc. for $7 plus shipping. There's also the laminated variety, I do not care for them cumbersome?
Once the brake line has been repaired, make sure to bleed the system, with the pressure switch imagine air bubble possibly effect the circuit?
Yes, tracing electrical gremlins on 50 plus year wiring harness can be a major pain in the backside, majority of the Ford part supplier's offer the wiring manual, if more than $10 suggest purchase from source; Jim Osborn Reproductions, Inc. for $7 plus shipping. There's also the laminated variety, I do not care for them cumbersome?
Once the brake line has been repaired, make sure to bleed the system, with the pressure switch imagine air bubble possibly effect the circuit?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
I wondered about that, but found this not to be the case in practice. Had a replacement on hand and while waiting for the original to fail, noticed one day it took some serious braking effort for the lights. So I just swapped it out. They work great now.