clearance light problems
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clearance light problems
hi
im replacing the clearance lights on my '79 f-250
i have it all hooked up through an option the new lights instructions gave me where i run a wire from the battery into the cab to a switch, ground the switch and run a lead up to the lights which are all connected
the problem is that the inline glass fuse supplied for the wire from the battery to switch keeps blowing once the voltage is applied and i cant think of a solution
if anyone could help that would be great
thanks
p.s i did a fourm search and none of the threads answered my question
im replacing the clearance lights on my '79 f-250
i have it all hooked up through an option the new lights instructions gave me where i run a wire from the battery into the cab to a switch, ground the switch and run a lead up to the lights which are all connected
the problem is that the inline glass fuse supplied for the wire from the battery to switch keeps blowing once the voltage is applied and i cant think of a solution
if anyone could help that would be great
thanks
p.s i did a fourm search and none of the threads answered my question
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: H/Lk. & S.E. Michigan
I'd say you have one of the white neutral/ground wires crossed. You definately have a short. If those are correct, then check your supply side (black) + wires closely to see if there is a nick in one of them causing the short.
Battery + terminal (black or red) wire to switch-switch to black wire on light(s)- white(s) to a ground. No need to ground the switch, most likely your problem.
Good Luck, H
Battery + terminal (black or red) wire to switch-switch to black wire on light(s)- white(s) to a ground. No need to ground the switch, most likely your problem.
Good Luck, H
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
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From: Northern California
I'd say you have one of the white neutral/ground wires crossed. You definately have a short. If those are correct, then check your supply side (black) + wires closely to see if there is a nick in one of them causing the short.
Battery + terminal (black or red) wire to switch-switch to black wire on light(s)- white(s) to a ground. No need to ground the switch, most likely your problem.
Good Luck, H
Battery + terminal (black or red) wire to switch-switch to black wire on light(s)- white(s) to a ground. No need to ground the switch, most likely your problem.
Good Luck, H
Um, Automotive wiring is different than House wiring.
Most Comon Colors of house wiring is:
- Black (Hot Wire)
- Red (Switched Hot)
- White (Neutral)
- Green or bare (Ground)
- The Ground Wires on Ford electrical systems is ALWAYS Black. (Only exception is the main battery cables)
- 12 volt power supply wires can be any color of the rainbow, with identifying stripes, hashes, or dots.
- Hot 12 volt from headlamp switch. Brown Wire
- Black (ground)
The most accepted colors for aftermarket automotive wiring: and there are exceptions to even these...
- RED: 12 Volt Hot
- Black: Ground
- White: Ground (Trailer wiring)
- Green: (Turn Signal and brake)
- Yellow: (Turn Signal and brake)
- Brown: (Clearance)
- Blue: 12 volt switched, or trailer brake controler
- Wire from battery Plus side to one side of togle switch.
- Wire from other side of togel switch to one end of light bulb
- other end of light bulb to chassis (ground)
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i worked on the wiring more and i made sure the switch was hooked up right, once it was it only worked to a certain degree and im pretty sure the switch is faulty because it only worked when i held it a certain way
so i went the other route and im using a single action switch with the (unknicked) power wire with an inline fuse holder i put in-- to the switch and a wire from the switch running to the lights with a ground wire fused into the circut at the last light
problem is the same now, the fuse keeps blowing and i am positive there are no shorts its all new wire and i checked it over.
im wondering if i should possibly run it without a fuse in line or if i should ground it somewhere else
any suggestions would be greatly appritiated
thanks
so i went the other route and im using a single action switch with the (unknicked) power wire with an inline fuse holder i put in-- to the switch and a wire from the switch running to the lights with a ground wire fused into the circut at the last light
problem is the same now, the fuse keeps blowing and i am positive there are no shorts its all new wire and i checked it over.
im wondering if i should possibly run it without a fuse in line or if i should ground it somewhere else
any suggestions would be greatly appritiated
thanks
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
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In my experience aftermarket lights use the case to ground to the metal so there is usually no need for a ground wire, unless the light is all plastic and in which case you would need a ground wire.
It sounds like to me you are running a wire from the battery, to the switch, to the lights and then this SAME wire you then grounding at the end of the line.
Closed circuit, and bang goes the fuse.
Do you happen to have link to the style of lights you used?
Josh
It sounds like to me you are running a wire from the battery, to the switch, to the lights and then this SAME wire you then grounding at the end of the line.
Closed circuit, and bang goes the fuse.
Do you happen to have link to the style of lights you used?
Josh
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yeah the switch is all plastic and in on the original switch it had a third prong to ground seperately to metal, but the original switch is faulty.
i went and tried to go without the fuse and the wire couldnt handle the voltage or amperage because it started to melt the insulation
and i am running one wire from the battery to switch and a seperate wire from the switch up to the lights and where the 4th and fifth light meet i fused a seperate wire into the circut and ran it to the cab metal
is it possible im grounding in the wrong place im really lost on this one
electricity is not my specialty
and i dont have a link i bought these lights at an advance auto parts..universals
i went and tried to go without the fuse and the wire couldnt handle the voltage or amperage because it started to melt the insulation
and i am running one wire from the battery to switch and a seperate wire from the switch up to the lights and where the 4th and fifth light meet i fused a seperate wire into the circut and ran it to the cab metal
is it possible im grounding in the wrong place im really lost on this one
electricity is not my specialty
and i dont have a link i bought these lights at an advance auto parts..universals
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern California
This is one of your problems.
It sounds like you are hooking up the lights in series, and they should be hooked up in parallel. Or you are hooking your ground wire into the HOT wire, creating your short.
Here is how it should be wired up...
If it isn't wired like this diagram, then this could be you problem.
.... and a wire from the switch running to the lights with a ground wire fused into the circut at the last light
Here is how it should be wired up...
If it isn't wired like this diagram, then this could be you problem.
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ive discussed the issue with a few more people and this is what i think is going on, its basically a ground issue
from the lights on the top of the cab come only one wire down, that being for the hot wire to connect, basically what ive been doing is creating a direct ground for my wire by bringing my grounds into the hot wire as said before (im not sure by who)
so what i think im going to do is take a look directly at the lights and see how they are grounding im not sure if they are using the lights themselves mounted to the cab to ground or not, but the lights housings are all plastic
i may go ahead and try to match the original switch that was faulty and try and re-wire it in the same way with the three prong switch that 1.has wire from battery with fuse running into switch 2. has ground off second prong to body right next to switch 3. has wire from switch up to the light leads
if you guys have anymore help or ideas give me a shout
thanks for all your help so far....makes it easier than shooting in the dark
from the lights on the top of the cab come only one wire down, that being for the hot wire to connect, basically what ive been doing is creating a direct ground for my wire by bringing my grounds into the hot wire as said before (im not sure by who)
so what i think im going to do is take a look directly at the lights and see how they are grounding im not sure if they are using the lights themselves mounted to the cab to ground or not, but the lights housings are all plastic
i may go ahead and try to match the original switch that was faulty and try and re-wire it in the same way with the three prong switch that 1.has wire from battery with fuse running into switch 2. has ground off second prong to body right next to switch 3. has wire from switch up to the light leads
if you guys have anymore help or ideas give me a shout
thanks for all your help so far....makes it easier than shooting in the dark
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
from the lights on the top of the cab come only one wire down, that being for the hot wire to connect, basically what ive been doing is creating a direct ground for my wire by bringing my grounds into the hot wire as said before (im not sure by who)
You need to hook the hot wire from the switch directly to one side of the light bulbs. Do not ground this wire at all.
You hook your ground wires to the other side of the light Bulbs.
Power goes directly to the bulbs, goes through the bulb, and grounds on the other side.
The diagram in my previous post shows this clearly.
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peckhamjusten
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