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Ordered a set from Rudy's I'll have them this week and I'm gonna tear into the truck on Sat.. I bought the lower spider boots and turbo o rings.. Anything else I should look into before I get the turbo out? Nothing in the valley or around the turbo is leaking... I can't add my signature info until I have a few more posts..
Any advice on things to look for or replace?
Mods include..
Wicked wheel
6.0 IC
Air raid intake
6.0 26 plate trans cooler
55psi fuel spring
Banks big head
Full 4" magna flow exh
TonyWildman tuned TS chip
EGT-trans-boost guage on the piller
Zoodad mod
Foil delete
AIH delete
Forgot to mention the factory up pipes are leaking BAD... Been putting off doing them for way to long.. I'm ready to have the truck run like it did before the up pipes started leaking!! Also, did a boost leak test and I'm good there!!
Forgot to mention the factory up pipes are leaking BAD... Been putting off doing them for way to long.. I'm ready to have the truck run like it did before the up pipes started leaking!! Also, did a boost leak test and I'm good there!!
What are fearless warrior Tug would say...soak them up bolts for a week with penetrating oil
What are fearless warrior Tug would say...soak them up bolts for a week with penetrating oil
Cleaned up the motor and around the trans this last weekend and started the Kroil soaking..... I'll continue the do so all week..
Thanks for the heads up
Check the passenger side fuel line at the support bracket under the turbo. Can wear thru and spring a leak.
Plenum reinforcers so you can use t bolt clamps down there and never worry about losing boost there again.
The newer billet turbo wheels are better than the WW, spool faster plus flow more. Riff Raff has a nice one but the current crop from other makers are pretty comparable, from what I hear.
Check the passenger side fuel line at the support bracket under the turbo. Can wear thru and spring a leak.
Plenum reinforcers so you can use t bolt clamps down there and never worry about losing boost there again.
The newer billet turbo wheels are better than the WW, spool faster plus flow more. Riff Raff has a nice one but the current crop from other makers are pretty comparable, from what I hear.
Happy wrenching!
Going on RiffRaff now and getting rings... Thank you..
Pre assemble the up pipe assembly on the bench. It's supposedly been taken care of but some sets of up pipes came with too long of bolts so they would bottom out before seating the gasket. It's a simple fix if so just cut a little off the end of the bolts.
Pre assemble the up pipe assembly on the bench. It's supposedly been taken care of but some sets of up pipes came with too long of bolts so they would bottom out before seating the gasket. It's a simple fix if so just cut a little off the end of the bolts.
I'll have them today once the brown man shows up.. I'll assemble ad check for sure.. Also thought about trying to clean up the casting inside the babies butt... Couldn't hurt to smooth it out as much as I can..,
If you're planning on removing the turbo and pedestal, you can remove & install the collector and up-pipes together as a set from above, as well as the downpipe. To get the downpipe in & out from below the trans cross member needs to come out.
I did a short write up for my install here. Take your time and it'll be an easy job.
If you're planning on removing the turbo and pedestal, you can remove & install the collector and up-pipes together as a set from above, as well as the downpipe. To get the downpipe in & out from below the trans cross member needs to come out.
I did a short write up for my install here. Take your time and it'll be an easy job.
I've had the turbo out twice since I've owned the truck so I'm comfortable pulling it.. I will try too assemble and drop them as you recommended.. Thank you for the link to the write up... Actually looking forward to getting them in there.. It'll be nice to have the truck back to running right...
If you are considering cleaning up the casting for flow, then I would recommend wrapping your up pipes with 2 layers header wrap and paint with high heat silicone paint. Turns it from a leak repair to a performance upgrade! Cheers!
If you are considering cleaning up the casting for flow, then I would recommend wrapping your up pipes with 2 layers header wrap and paint with high heat silicone paint. Turns it from a leak repair to a performance upgrade! Cheers!
Are you saying wrap first, then paint or visce versa? I wrapped the exhaust on my Harley and it rusted the header in 6 months!! Took it off and ceramic coated them!!! Pricey!! But it was a better setup for sure.. Don't really have the time to have the up pipes ceramic coated, but I could paint em up and wrap them pretty quik!!
You might consider tapping the manifold for a EGT probe. Even if you don't install it, you can plug it and it'll be there when you're ready for it. I've read the write up for doing it with the truck running to blow out any metal shavings, but I like the idea of being able to shop vac out any debris with the up-pipe off. Just a thought, I wish I would have done it.
Are you saying wrap first, then paint or visce versa? I wrapped the exhaust on my Harley and it rusted the header in 6 months!! Took it off and ceramic coated them!!! Pricey!! But it was a better setup for sure.. Don't really have the time to have the up pipes ceramic coated, but I could paint em up and wrap them pretty quik!!
Stainless bellowed up pipes are also available if you are worried about rust/live in the rust belt. I used the Dorman bellowed up pipes, wet and wrapped with two layers of 2" header wrap and stainless ties. Then I dried them in the oven at 350* for a couple hours. After that, I sprayed several coats of high temp silicone coating spray to protect the wrap, using a heat gun to cure the paint between coats. I would have returned them to the oven but my wife had enough of the drying fumes! I thought the kitchen was fair game while motorhead operations were under way!
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