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Dorman up pipes

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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 02:56 PM
  #16  
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[QUOTE=natedog37;16238116]You might consider tapping the manifold for a EGT probe. Even if you don't install it, you can plug it and it'll be there when you're ready for it. I've read the write up for doing it with the truck running to blow out any metal shavings, but I like the idea of being able to shop vac out any debris with the up-pipe off. Just a thought, I wish I would have done it.[/QUOTE

I tapped the driver side manifold 10 years ago when first got the truck and installed the gauges.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2016 | 08:26 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by MPannell
Ordered a set from Rudy's I'll have them this week and I'm gonna tear into the truck on Sat.. I bought the lower spider boots and turbo o rings.. Anything else I should look into before I get the turbo out? Nothing in the valley or around the turbo is leaking... I can't add my signature info until I have a few more posts..
Any advice on things to look for or replace?
Mods include..
Wicked wheel
6.0 IC
Air raid intake
6.0 26 plate trans cooler
55psi fuel spring
Banks big head
Full 4" magna flow exh
TonyWildman tuned TS chip
EGT-trans-boost guage on the piller
Zoodad mod
Foil delete
AIH delete
MPannel, I'm not sure if "55 psi return spring" was a type-o, but the 62-65 lb fuel spring keeps these engines in the sweet spot! Also, now would be the time if you wanted to add an Frx (regulated return) from RiffRaff or CNC fabrication, or to rebuild the turbo with the rebuild kit, EBPV delete pedestal, or hpx oil crossover. I would at least rebuild the turbo and pedestal including the pedestal o-rings, because all the factory o-rings are Buna and new Viton from dieselOrings.com will last a long time. Check the passenger side fuel line for rub through damage (where the retainer bracket wraps around it) while it is apart. Mine was not bad but the bolt was loose. Others have had rub through from it.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2016 | 04:52 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by VOODOO7.3
MPannel, I'm not sure if "55 psi return spring" was a type-o, but the 62-65 lb fuel spring keeps these engines in the sweet spot! Also, now would be the time if you wanted to add an Frx (regulated return) from RiffRaff or CNC fabrication, or to rebuild the turbo with the rebuild kit, EBPV delete pedestal, or hpx oil crossover. I would at least rebuild the turbo and pedestal including the pedestal o-rings, because all the factory o-rings are Buna and new Viton from dieselOrings.com will last a long time. Check the passenger side fuel line for rub through damage (where the retainer bracket wraps around it) while it is apart. Mine was not bad but the bolt was loose. Others have had rub through from it.
Good catch, I set fuel pressure at 65psi. Back when I did it I used the tiny SS shim method. Added shims until I was at 65.. Check it periodically to make the factory Spring hasen't collapsed.. She bounces around 62-65 psi..
Also, I rebuilt the turbo about 3 years ago!! But I bought the 4 viton o-rings for the turbo and pedestal.. As well as the RiffRaff reinforcing rings and boots, with new T-bolts to attach them.. On the fence about the FRX... I know I should do it but I've spent so much on the truck lately. New tires, brakes, and all new CAC boots from RR, For the 6.0 IC.... The wife is not happy, might have to wait a couple weeks😀
 
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Old Apr 27, 2016 | 06:43 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by MPannell
Good catch, I set fuel pressure at 65psi. Back when I did it I used the tiny SS shim method. Added shims until I was at 65.. Check it periodically to make the factory Spring hasen't collapsed.. She bounces around 62-65 psi..
Also, I rebuilt the turbo about 3 years ago!! But I bought the 4 viton o-rings for the turbo and pedestal.. As well as the RiffRaff reinforcing rings and boots, with new T-bolts to attach them.. On the fence about the FRX... I know I should do it but I've spent so much on the truck lately. New tires, brakes, and all new CAC boots from RR, For the 6.0 IC.... The wife is not happy, might have to wait a couple weeks😀
I know what you mean! It is great that you rebuilt the turbo and 62-65 is perfect! IMO, doing the Hutch mod and pre-pump filter was still the best $ I ever spent on my ride. All that air removal at once made the Frx less exciting later! You made good choices avoiding both future turbo problems and those pesky o-ring leaks! Cheers!
 
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Old May 9, 2017 | 12:36 PM
  #20  
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can i jump in here?

have you installed the pipes? i need these bad. bought a 350k mile 1 owner truck that has been neglected besides oil changes. long overdue for many things.

i need up pipes, im assuming the turbo is dusted by the looks of the impeller, cant see obvious EBPV oil leaks but engine was DIRTY when i bought it.

i found dormans on amazon for $130 shipped. dont know who to trust for ebpv delete parts. seems like many of these diesel sites jack up prices.

id like some info on who to trust and a who has good prices. i want to do as much as i can while i have it out. rather not take the trans out.
 
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Old May 9, 2017 | 01:28 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by NO_SPRK
can i jump in here?

have you installed the pipes? i need these bad. bought a 350k mile 1 owner truck that has been neglected besides oil changes. long overdue for many things.

i need up pipes, im assuming the turbo is dusted by the looks of the impeller, cant see obvious EBPV oil leaks but engine was DIRTY when i bought it.

i found dormans on amazon for $130 shipped. dont know who to trust for ebpv delete parts. seems like many of these diesel sites jack up prices.

id like some info on who to trust and a who has good prices. i want to do as much as i can while i have it out. rather not take the trans out.
can buy from amazon or rockauto(crossover pipes)... For the rest of the items, hit up riffraff diesel
 
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Old May 9, 2017 | 05:15 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
can buy from amazon or rockauto(crossover pipes)... For the rest of the items, hit up riffraff diesel

Hit up RiffRaff and ask for Clay, they should be able to steer you good, they are also well priced on 99% what they carry
 
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Old May 9, 2017 | 10:26 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
What are fearless warrior Tug would say...soak them up bolts for a week with penetrating oil
Umm, why bother? New up-pipes come with, and require the use of, a new collector. Also, the pipe to manifold bolts are though bolts/nuts. They don't thread into the manifold. So, either snap those bolts, or cut them with a dremel. Replace with stainless from the hardware store.

As for the other end, the only thing I would soak/worry about is the actual collector to turbo connection. You'll probably have to persuade them apart with some hammer/chisel tapping. The pipes into the collector may just fall apart. If not, again, don't bother with the bolts. Just cut the pipes at a convenient location. Its all junk anyway.
 
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Old May 9, 2017 | 10:37 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by NO_SPRK
........
i found dormans on amazon for $130 shipped. dont know who to trust for ebpv delete parts. seems like many of these diesel sites jack up prices.

id like some info on who to trust and a who has good prices. i want to do as much as i can while i have it out. rather not take the trans out.
Rock Auto
"blank" pedestal ROTOMASTER A1382205N $86.79
hi-flow outlet ( ebpv delete) ROTOMASTER A1383801N $62.89

No need to waste money on Garrett branded parts at inflated prices. Given that you are doing a delete, these parts have no moving parts. In other words, not much to screw up or get wrong. I used these with no problem. They have been on my truck for 2 + years with no issues.

Same with the up-pipes. the Dormans are an excellent choice. Great price. No need to waste money on overpriced International ones, for more then 3 times the cost. Yeah sure, the Internationals are stainless, but the Dormans are sufficiently sturdy for most people. Especially if you give them a good hi-temp paint job prior to install.
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 01:01 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by carguy3j
Rock Auto
"blank" pedestal ROTOMASTER A1382205N $86.79
hi-flow outlet ( ebpv delete) ROTOMASTER A1383801N $62.89

No need to waste money on Garrett branded parts at inflated prices. Given that you are doing a delete, these parts have no moving parts. In other words, not much to screw up or get wrong. I used these with no problem. They have been on my truck for 2 + years with no issues.

Same with the up-pipes. the Dormans are an excellent choice. Great price. No need to waste money on overpriced International ones, for more then 3 times the cost. Yeah sure, the Internationals are stainless, but the Dormans are sufficiently sturdy for most people. Especially if you give them a good hi-temp paint job prior to install.
I like it! The voice of reason. Thanks for the Rockauto part numbers.
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 06:38 AM
  #26  
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X3 on dry fit the pipes before install. On my Dorman set the alignment pin for the baby's butt was a bit off, so the "cheeks" did not align perfectly. Blended it in just fine, and leaving it alone would not hurt much, but why not make your truck nice, right?

Pipes on Dormans are also stainless, fwiw.
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 09:36 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by aawlberninf350
X3 on dry fit the pipes before install. On my Dorman set the alignment pin for the baby's butt was a bit off, so the "cheeks" did not align perfectly. Blended it in just fine, and leaving it alone would not hurt much, but why not make your truck nice, right?

Pipes on Dormans are also stainless, fwiw.

This has been debated more then once. They are not stainless. Dorman themselves ( tech line) have said they are not. Dorman says the collector is cast iron and the pipes are mild steel. They are very heavy gauge/wall thickness though.
They MAY be some sort of VERY low grade magnetic stainless, given how little they have rusted so far. But, if that is is the case, it would be an even lower grade then certain oem exhaust, such as older GM pipes, so they(Dorman) probably wouldn't want to claim/market it as a stainless.

Mine do show some very light surface rusting (and hence can't be true stainless), at spots where the paint was scratched off, or got washed off from oil leaks,etc.. But, as I said, its very minor and nothing beyond surface blemishes. With this little bit, after 2 years of NJ roads ( winters/salt), I'm confident they have many years left in them. Particularly since I will re-paint them when everything comes out for my drive train transplant this summer.
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 10:40 AM
  #28  
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I posted this up pipes too see if any body has used them but nope, at the price I wouldn't mind using them, or do any of you want to be the guinea pig lol....
These are supposed to be true polished stainless up pipes.
Ford Super Duty 1999-2003 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel Stainless Turbo Up Y Pipe Kit | eBay
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 10:56 AM
  #29  
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As hard as they are to put in I didn't want to take any chances so I went IH on mine. They went in as well as they could, they're good now and they'll be good later.
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 11:12 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by carguy3j
Rock Auto
"blank" pedestal ROTOMASTER A1382205N $86.79
hi-flow outlet ( ebpv delete) ROTOMASTER A1383801N $62.89

No need to waste money on Garrett branded parts at inflated prices. Given that you are doing a delete, these parts have no moving parts. In other words, not much to screw up or get wrong. I used these with no problem. They have been on my truck for 2 + years with no issues.

Same with the up-pipes. the Dormans are an excellent choice. Great price. No need to waste money on overpriced International ones, for more then 3 times the cost. Yeah sure, the Internationals are stainless, but the Dormans are sufficiently sturdy for most people. Especially if you give them a good hi-temp paint job prior to install.
I am thinking that the outlet is not for Early 99 though. Bummer.
 
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