Dorman up pipes

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May 10, 2017 | 11:14 AM

#31

aawlberninf350

It's a Van Gogh

Joined: Feb 2010

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From: Elk Grove, CA

Quote:

Originally Posted by carguy3j

This has been debated more then once. They are not stainless. Dorman themselves ( tech line) have said they are not. Dorman says the collector is cast iron and the pipes are mild steel. They are very heavy gauge/wall thickness though.
They MAY be some sort of VERY low grade magnetic stainless, given how little they have rusted so far. But, if that is is the case, it would be an even lower grade then certain oem exhaust, such as older GM pipes, so they(Dorman) probably wouldn't want to claim/market it as a stainless.

Mine do show some very light surface rusting (and hence can't be true stainless), at spots where the paint was scratched off, or got washed off from oil leaks,etc.. But, as I said, its very minor and nothing beyond surface blemishes. With this little bit, after 2 years of NJ roads ( winters/salt), I'm confident they have many years left in them. Particularly since I will re-paint them when everything comes out for my drive train transplant this summer.

I reject your reality and substitute my own.

The Dorman pipes are indeed stainless, a similar grade to the OE exhaust system. Collector is cast iron, but pipes are ss. I believe this for several reasons; first, it says so on their website. Also I tested the pipes that came with my kit. I did not cut it up and throw it on the spectrometer to get a reading of all the constituent elements, but I did the ghetto tests; a magnet did not stick, swabbed with acid it did not stain, and very few sparks flew when I hit it with the grinding wheel. Not conclusive proof like a real chemistry to show percentage of alloys, but these are DIY ways to characterize stainless vs mild steel.

Almost forgot; due to the confusion back then I contacted Dorman and got the response below on 11/19/15 before purchasing:

The pipes are made of 409 stainless

Thank you

Jim S**********
Dorman Products
Asst Product Manager/Tech Services
215-712-**** Desk
215-712-**** Fax
Or Toll Free
1-800-868-5777 ext.****

So that's why I think they are stainless. Not the quality of workmanship of the IH version fer shure, but the materials are comparable.

To OP: the wicked wheel is obsolete compared to the newer billet jobbies. Much lighter so they spool faster, plus make more boost. Great time to upgrade! Riff Raff, Dieselsite, SP Turbo come to mind.

May 10, 2017 | 11:16 AM

#32

z31freakify

Hotshot

Joined: Dec 2012

Posts: 11,271

Likes: 1,654

From: Las Cruces New Mexico

Just delete yours Byron, a rounded head bolt a nut and a pressure washer is all that's needed to delete the flap.

May 10, 2017 | 11:20 AM

#33

SaintITC

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Jul 2003

Posts: 1,614

Likes: 22

From: Springfield, PA

It looks exactly like the baby's butt on my Mar '98 e99. Per Riffraff one of the up-pipes is different from the e99 to the 99.5+ up-pipes, but I forget which. Hence why I got mine from him. I'd bet you could probably stretch the bellows to make it fit, but that would be easier with the engine out rather than installed.

Another difference between these and IH / RR (and even Dorman) up-pipes might be the length of the bellows, which would affect amount of expansion allowed. IDK really, just a supposition.

May 10, 2017 | 11:20 AM

#34

carguy3j

Elder User

Joined: Jul 2015

Posts: 914

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Quote:

Originally Posted by z31freakify

I posted this up pipes too see if any body has used them but nope, at the price I wouldn't mind using them, or do any of you want to be the guinea pig lol....
These are supposed to be true polished stainless up pipes.
Ford Super Duty 1999-2003 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel Stainless Turbo Up Y Pipe Kit | eBay

Seems a bit fishy. That's TOO cheap for real true stainless. Unless the wall thickness is paper thin? In any case, look close. I swear I see some rust discoloration already forming on the pipes in the picture. Maybe not? Buy them and let us know. I doubt I will be needing another set anytime soon, but others might want them.

Careful though, a power hungry blowhard moderator might get all butt-hurt and slap you for daring to post a link to a product that isn't sold by one of "our" almighty sponsors........

May 10, 2017 | 11:30 AM

#35

carguy3j

Elder User

Joined: Jul 2015

Posts: 914

Likes: 4

Quote:

Originally Posted by aawlberninf350

I reject your reality and substitute my own.

Interesting..... I wonder if they have changed the composition then? When I called Dorman, they were adamant the pipes were not stainless. At the time (this was a couple of years ago I guess), I could swear their website listed them as mild steel. In fact, I think that's why I looked into, because many online vendors showed them as stainless, whereas Dorman did not.

I am also pretty sure my magnet stuck to the pipes. Most OEM grade stainless exhaust I have encountered is magnetic, being a lower grade stainless ( 409 I think?) It seems rather odd Dorman would use a non-magnetic high end stainless(304/316?) when even the oem's don't.

Either way, the Dormans are a good value for the money, and probably the "best" choice for most people ( unless you plan to build an amphibious ocean going SuperDuty).

May 10, 2017 | 11:43 AM

#36

Dan V

Lead Driver

Joined: Jun 2013

Posts: 5,647

Likes: 891

From: north of Minneapolis, MN

Quote:

Originally Posted by carguy3j

Seems a bit fishy. That's TOO cheap for real true stainless. Unless the wall thickness is paper thin?

Look, you should stop using the term "real true stainless" when you have no idea of the variety of stainless steels out in the market....and I'm not talking about aftermarket up-pipes. You seem to correlate "real true stainless" with one of the 300 series, T-303, T-304, T-316. When in fact there is a 400 series of stainless steels as well, T-409, T-416, T-420, T440.

Then there are the precipitation hardening stainless steels like 15-5, 17-4.

There...rant over.

May 10, 2017 | 11:45 AM

#37

carguy3j

Elder User

Joined: Jul 2015

Posts: 914

Likes: 4

Quote:

Originally Posted by BBslider001

I am thinking that the outlet is not for Early 99 though. Bummer.

Pedestal no. Obviously that's different. However, Rock does have a re-man E99 pedestal, with the EBPV though, for $142 + core. I don't know, as I haven't shopped for an e99 part, but I would imagine thats still cheaper then many other options, for the E99

As for the exhaust outlet, aren't they the same? I know the VAN turbo has a different turbine housing/outlet, but I'm fairly certain the E99 and 99.5+ TRUCK turbos use the same exhaust side/turbine. Only the compressor side is "smaller". Therefor, you should still be able to use the outlet adapter I mentioned. Or am I missing something?

If you need a whole E99 turbo, I have a really clean complete one ( with pedestal) I'm trying to find a new home for. PM me if you want.

May 10, 2017 | 11:52 AM

#38

carguy3j

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Joined: Jul 2015

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan V

Ok. I will admit, I don't really have any metallurgical expertise. I am posting from the perspective of someone using these materials in their finished form/product and my experience with them. Also, I have the perspective of someone in the scrap metal business.

Here's how I see it. 1.) If it rusts, AT ALL, its not "really" stainless. 2.)If a magnet sticks to it, its not "really" stainless.

1.) is for practical considerations. If I am looking for something "stainless" its probably because my main concern is that it doesn't rust/corrode, and stays shiny. So, if it doesn't meet that criteria, its not "stainless" in my mind, as well as probably the mind of many other consumers.

2.) From a scrap perspective, if its magnetic, its junk. In order for a metal to be classed/graded as "stainless", and paid for at a higher price per LB, then it MUST be non-magnetic. If the magnet sticks, its worth no more then your old bed frame or washing machine, and gets tossed in the same pile.

While I realize these criteria aren't scientifically "correct", that is my perspective, from a practical day-to-day point of view.