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New FICM issues.

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Old May 7, 2016 | 09:07 PM
  #46  
CircuitBoardMedics's Avatar
CircuitBoardMedics
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From: Greenville, SC
Originally Posted by Yahiko
I have not been keeping up with this thread till tonight so I am a bit late.

Ok so I am going to put you on the spot on this one. You said that you have
changed the procedure and now test before they go out the door. Why was
this not already in place? Before I got in to aviation I would test before return
to service just for my peace of mind. Now that I have trained in that field I
would never think to release anything without a final service test before I ever
thought to return to service. The fact that you have changed this is good.
Hindsight is certainly 20/20!
We build exchange clusters to inventory, and the past process was to test as a "final" step before putting them on the shelf. This wasn't always the final step though if we loaded a PHP tune into the FICM once an order was placed. This was the first time we ever had a problem with a tune not loading properly. Our process for R&R naturally followed the same sequence - the repair technician did the bench test before and after repair along with a truck test as a "final" test before sending it to shipping. When this happened, we quickly realized that there had to be another run on a truck after any programming was performed.
 
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Old May 8, 2016 | 01:59 AM
  #47  
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From: Spanaway
Thanks for responding to that question.

I think it will more that pay for it's self even if it never happens again.
Because you know that it's been tested after all work was done.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder
 
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Old May 8, 2016 | 03:22 PM
  #48  
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From: Kansas City MO
Wish I could discipline myself with the atlas 40,,, mainly by using it. I have been running the Hercules for a couple months and can't keep from grinning. Lol
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 01:16 AM
  #49  
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P0611

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#56
Carlosfj80's AvatarCarlosfj80 , Today 11:12 PM
P0611
I'm new to Fords and new to the forum, been a Toyota guy all my life. Been getting a P0611 code when I run a scan with my SCT3015. I have not noticed any power loss or starting issues. All though it takes a 1.5 seconds to start. Truck runs great, fuel mileage is no better than 14 Mpg even with a "Canned" street tune from my SCT. No CEL by the way, only reason I noticed is before I updated my tuner I ran a DTC scan and the code came up.I had a friend plug his CPU in and I was getting 48v when the truck was warm, it did drop to 46-47 for a second or 2. I clear the code and everyday it comes back. What am I looking at here? I hear the injector chatter every morning before it starts. Will check the relays tomorrow. I have a local mechanic who will rebuild and remove/install for $435 with a 2 yr warranty.

What do you guys suggest, what should I be looking for?

Thanks in advance!
Edit Reply

Originally Posted by CircuitBoardMedics
Hindsight is certainly 20/20!
We build exchange clusters to inventory, and the past process was to test as a "final" step before putting them on the shelf. This wasn't always the final step though if we loaded a PHP tune into the FICM once an order was placed. This was the first time we ever had a problem with a tune not loading properly. Our process for R&R naturally followed the same sequence - the repair technician did the bench test before and after repair along with a truck test as a "final" test before sending it to shipping. When this happened, we quickly realized that there had to be another run on a truck after any programming was performed.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 01:20 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Carlosfj80
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#56
Carlosfj80's AvatarCarlosfj80 , Today 11:12 PM
P0611
I'm new to Fords and new to the forum, been a Toyota guy all my life. Been getting a P0611 code when I run a scan with my SCT3015. I have not noticed any power loss or starting issues. All though it takes a 1.5 seconds to start. Truck runs great, fuel mileage is no better than 14 Mpg even with a "Canned" street tune from my SCT. No CEL by the way, only reason I noticed is before I updated my tuner I ran a DTC scan and the code came up.I had a friend plug his CPU in and I was getting 48v when the truck was warm, it did drop to 46-47 for a second or 2. I clear the code and everyday it comes back. What am I looking at here? I hear the injector chatter every morning before it starts. Will check the relays tomorrow. I have a local mechanic who will rebuild and remove/install for $435 with a 2 yr warranty.

What do you guys suggest, what should I be looking for?

Thanks in advance!
Edit Reply
Your FICM needs rebuilding. The P0611 is the first indicator, after that you'll begin to get codes concerning cylinder balance or contribution along with the P0611.

These guys at CBM made my FICM great. Consistent 48V, tune works great and it came back to me looking like it was new.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 03:00 AM
  #51  
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From: Spanaway
FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts
is who I would go with for a FICM.
Cluster or overhead display then CBM.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 07:30 AM
  #52  
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CircuitBoardMedics
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From: Greenville, SC
Originally Posted by Carlosfj80
Originally Posted by Carlosfj80 View Post
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#56
I'm new to Fords and new to the forum, been a Toyota guy all my life. Been getting a P0611 code when I run a scan with my SCT3015. I have not noticed any power loss or starting issues. All though it takes a 1.5 seconds to start. Truck runs great, fuel mileage is no better than 14 Mpg even with a "Canned" street tune from my SCT. No CEL by the way, only reason I noticed is before I updated my tuner I ran a DTC scan and the code came up.I had a friend plug his CPU in and I was getting 48v when the truck was warm, it did drop to 46-47 for a second or 2. I clear the code and everyday it comes back. What am I looking at here? I hear the injector chatter every morning before it starts. Will check the relays tomorrow. I have a local mechanic who will rebuild and remove/install for $435 with a 2 yr warranty.

What do you guys suggest, what should I be looking for?

Thanks in advance!
Edit Reply
We'd love to help with your FICM issues. If you are checking the voltage on the FICM, you really need to monitor the voltage when cranking. If it drops below 45 volts, it needs a rebuild.

We offer a rebuild service as well as an exchange service on those FICMs. We give a 5 year warranty and offer the PHP tune upgrade. They are a great option.

6.0 Powerstroke FICM Repair - FICM Programming Upgrade

If you are new on the Powerstroke scene, spend some time digging through these forums. It's well worth the time. Lots of good information passed along.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 09:17 AM
  #53  
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I appreciate all the quick responses, I did some digging through the forum last night. How do I know if it's the FICM and not one of the 3 the plugs(power loom). I have read the plugs under the hood can go bad as well? I am going to use one of the services from this site b/c the price is reasonable and the atlas 40 tune is probably want I need for mileage. The only part that make me nervous is unplugging the plugs, looks easy on the videos from CBM and DieseltechRon. But all I have read is that it's a pain. Before I read this forum I thought the after market alarm/autostart was causing an issue. So much knowledge here!

I am studded(bought it this way with records), apr studs with newer oil cooler, egr delete, coolant filter, basic bulletproof. I did all the oil and fuel filters using motorcraft brand and rotella t6 5w40 2 weeks ago.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 03:54 PM
  #54  
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Yahiko
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From: Spanaway
It's not really that hard.
Reach under the unit and push up on the first plug.
Squeeze the locking table and then pull down.
Be gentle and it if hangs you need to push back up and try again.

Where is can became a PITA is installing after you have moved the
harness around and that is a given for most work. Before you drop
the FICM back down take a little time to settle the plugs and get them
lined up. That will help a lot. Then start each plug and push. You want
to hear a "CLICK" as they slide home. Take the time to tug back down to
make sure that they really have locked into place and that one step will
save you some diagnostics headaches down the road.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder
 
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Old May 20, 2016 | 09:48 PM
  #55  
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I checked the FICM relay, passes the eyeball test, looks newer than all the other relays/fuses. I am going to pull the FICM and send it off. Hope it goes well, I will report back. I like the idea of a 5yr warranty, I plan to keep the truck for a while so it's worth it. Looks like the dorman is only a year. And the atlas 40 tune is just what I need for mileage. I thought these rigs we're supposed to get 16 in town. I barely get 13.5, but shoot it's a freaking HD truck.
 
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Old May 20, 2016 | 11:55 PM
  #56  
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From: Spanaway
The 'Eyeball" test won't tell you anything. You have to
cut it open and take a magnifying glass and check for craters
and burns.

Best way to test is to put it under a load and see how much
voltage drop it has. The switched side of that relay has a 50A
fuse so a draw of 45A should give you the amount of drop that
you might see when installed into the truck.
50A X 12V = 600 Watt. You would think it more but that is what
you get. A 0.24 Ω 100 Watt resistor will give you the needed current
to verify the drop of the relay contacts.

You can also use this test found here >>> How to Test the Voltage Drop of a Relay Contact - Diagnostic News

The easiest option is to just replace the thing.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder
 
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Old May 21, 2016 | 09:50 PM
  #57  
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Your right, I'm just going to replace it. But thanks for the instructions on how to check it. Hope to pull it tomorrow and get the FICM sent off.


Originally Posted by Yahiko
The 'Eyeball" test won't tell you anything. You have to
cut it open and take a magnifying glass and check for craters
and burns.

Best way to test is to put it under a load and see how much
voltage drop it has. The switched side of that relay has a 50A
fuse so a draw of 45A should give you the amount of drop that
you might see when installed into the truck.
50A X 12V = 600 Watt. You would think it more but that is what
you get. A 0.24 Ω 100 Watt resistor will give you the needed current
to verify the drop of the relay contacts.

You can also use this test found here >>> How to Test the Voltage Drop of a Relay Contact - Diagnostic News

The easiest option is to just replace the thing.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder
 
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 11:18 PM
  #58  
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Carlosfj80
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I am at a crossroad, my local mechanic will rebuild my FICM for $435 and that includes a two year 24,000 mile warranty, removal and installation. He says $140 of that is in parts. Everyone on the site, has suggested ficmrepair.com or circuit board medics. Please help me make a decision, I like buying local because it helps Out my community, but the other two are proven from what I read and here on FTE and the responses from both company's. Do the rebuild parts really cost that much? I do want a atlas 40 tune and he can't provide that. What experience do you guys have using someone other than the proven commodities from FTE? Thanks in advance!
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 12:01 AM
  #59  
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Yahiko
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From: Spanaway
They do not cost that much. Your paying for a service and the tools to do the job.
This covers some very special tools that I know that FICMrepair has.
I know with Ed you are also getting a full testing before it leaves. There some upgrades
that are done. Your local guy most likely is putting a Dorman (Made in China) power board
in it. You know how the stuff from China comes in cheaper? Two things they never did
the design work and they use cheap low cost parts.

Save yourself a stuck on the side of the road late at night and just go with
FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts
You will be happy you did.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 12:55 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Carlosfj80
I am at a crossroad, my local mechanic will rebuild my FICM for $435 and that includes a two year 24,000 mile warranty, removal and installation. He says $140 of that is in parts. Everyone on the site, has suggested ficmrepair.com or circuit board medics. Please help me make a decision, I like buying local because it helps Out my community, but the other two are proven from what I read and here on FTE and the responses from both company's. Do the rebuild parts really cost that much? I do want a atlas 40 tune and he can't provide that. What experience do you guys have using someone other than the proven commodities from FTE? Thanks in advance!
Hi Carlos -

As has been said, removing the FICM is not that complicated. Installing it isn't bad either. If your mechanic is indicating that $140 of the $435 is in parts, he is indeed assuredly buying a replacement power board and hoping that that solves the issue. While it may, a significant percentage of FICM issues are with the other side of the module - the logic side. Conveniently, we work on both sides.

If your local guy changes out the power side and it indeed solves the problem, I suppose that you are set. The question is what happens if that doesn't solve the issue.

All of this said, don't let the tuning bit enter into the equation for you. You can always get the Atlas 40 or any of the other tunes installed on whatever module you end with - whether from us, your local source, from PHP directly, or from one of their other dealers.

If you've got a 611 code, the one thing that you do know is that the FICM isn't performing as it should. The questions now are what is wrong with it, who do you want to have work on it for you, and (likely the biggest question yet) why are you having this issue in the first place? Regardless of what path you choose to get your FICM operating again as it should, PLEASE ensure that you yank your alternator and batteries to have them tested on a bench. There isn't much sense in going through the financial pain here only to have a recurrence of the same issue as a result of the foundational issue that created the FICM issue not being dealt with.

We've helped literally thousands of FTE members over the years with their FICM issues. We aren't the least expensive option out there but are far from the most expensive too. We'd be delighted to add you to the happy customer pile. If you'd like to visit about the litany of options, please feel free to give us a call. We're at 515-897-4459.

Good luck!

 
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