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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 11:43 AM
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Help I'm stuck

I have a top drivers side waterpump bolt that I suspect is cross threaded. Would using a propane torch to heat up the block in that location help or am I better just snapping it off and tapping it?
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 72CC428
I have a top drivers side waterpump bolt that I suspect is cross threaded. Would using a propane torch to heat up the block in that location help or am I better just snapping it off and tapping it?
You can try heating it to see if it'll let go. If it doesn't work, I would soak it really good with penetrating oil for a day or two, come back and see if it'll come out.

Obviously, the object is to do as little damage to the threads in the hole as possible. Every bit of material that's lost from the threads in the hole will mean less contact/grip the threads in the hole will have with the bolt.

Anytime I take something off the engine (or whatever) I ALWAYS chase the hole threads with a tap and the bolt threads with a die, prior to reinstalling the bolt. I also always put a little Anti-Seize on the threads before installing the bolt, unless it's a bolt that requires sealant on the threads.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 12:32 PM
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I try to do the same. Read somewhere that thread chasers have a different cut than the tap and die sets most folks use for the purpose and are preferable. Been a long time since high school but maybe the taps on thread chasers had a flat bottom?
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
I try to do the same. Read somewhere that thread chasers have a different cut than the tap and die sets most folks use for the purpose and are preferable. Been a long time since high school but maybe the taps on thread chasers had a flat bottom?
There are starting taps, plug taps and bottoming taps. Bottoming taps have threads pretty much all the way to the tip.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
I try to do the same. Read somewhere that thread chasers have a different cut than the tap and die sets most folks use for the purpose and are preferable. Been a long time since high school but maybe the taps on thread chasers had a flat bottom?
Thread chasers aren't intended to cut threads..... they just clean out debris.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 05:35 PM
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Exactly, they are the correct tool for the job?
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 10:02 PM
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Cool CONCERN?

My concern using heat is the proximity of the head and intake gaskets. Not so much the head gasket, but the intake is right there.

I drenched it in PB two days ago and again today but no budge. It has that feel of a cross thread.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 72CC428
My concern using heat is the proximity of the head and intake gaskets. Not so much the head gasket, but the intake is right there.

I drenched it in PB two days ago and again today but no budge. It has that feel of a cross thread.
If push comes to shove, you may have to take drastic measures to get the bolt out. If the hole threads can't be cleaned up afterwards, you may have to drill the hole oversized and heli-coil it. What engine is this?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ultraranger
If push comes to shove, you may have to take drastic measures to get the bolt out. If the hole threads can't be cleaned up afterwards, you may have to drill the hole oversized and heli-coil it. What engine is this?
It's the 428 in my truck. If I try heating it with the propane torch I'm worried about the intake gasket. Is that a valid concern?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 72CC428
It's the 428 in my truck. If I try heating it with the propane torch I'm worried about the intake gasket. Is that a valid concern?
Applying an external heat source onto the engine would be a valid concern in controlling where the heat goes and what else it might affect.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 09:03 AM
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I don't know how well you can apply any Bp lube on the threads.

You did not say if you were able to back out the bolt any to apply right on threads.

I'd use Mapp gas as it's a little hotter. I would just heat the bolt head the best, I could then use a hammer an tap on the bolt head about medium to a hard whacks a few times all while applying some Bp lube every couple of minutes and then using a impact tool air/battery tool this is better then just using a hand wrench.

Repeat above until removed but being careful not to break the threads.
Working the bolt in & out until out.
Orich

A
 
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 10:03 AM
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Waterpump still in place? Not usually with an FE but, possible that the bolt seized in the pump housing.
Wonder if a "freeze" method on the bolt might work.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 03:17 PM
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I will try.

Originally Posted by GLR
Waterpump still in place? Not usually with an FE but, possible that the bolt seized in the pump housing.
Wonder if a "freeze" method on the bolt might work.
Yeah the engine is still in the truck. I have the whole front clip taken off so access is as good as it gets.

I'll try some of the ideas you guys gave me. I have time.

I'm going to post another issue I have regarding my exhaust manifold.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 01:53 AM
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I may have missed it but are you installing the water pump or removing it? If installing it then I would also chase the threads and use a new bolt. If removing it, the problem is prolly junk in the threads of the bolt inner to and beyond the block's threaded hole. In this case I would remove the bolt's head via your choice of how. Then once you get the water pump off you can soak the problem closer to the threads with BP. At least this way you will have the whole rest of the bolt to help you. Vise grips on the shank of the bolt is better than twisting it off at the block.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
I may have missed it but are you installing the water pump or removing it? If installing it then I would also chase the threads and use a new bolt. If removing it, the problem is prolly junk in the threads of the bolt inner to and beyond the block's threaded hole. In this case I would remove the bolt's head via your choice of how. Then once you get the water pump off you can soak the problem closer to the threads with BP. At least this way you will have the whole rest of the bolt to help you. Vise grips on the shank of the bolt is better than twisting it off at the block.
Thank you all. good advice/suggestions.
 
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