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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old May 27, 2016 | 02:16 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by MIKES 68 F100
late in the game , but I have had very good luck with reverse drill bits . start small 1/8 or so . normally 2 drill bit sizes up and bit will grab and back out bolt .
2X Mike. I'd buy a set of reverse drill bits. I've had luck with them in the past also. Chin up Todd, you can do it.
 
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Old May 27, 2016 | 03:30 PM
  #32  
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TOO LATE?

Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
2X Mike. I'd buy a set of reverse drill bits. I've had luck with them in the past also. Chin up Todd, you can do it.
I already tapped it out to the point there is only about 1.5 mm. left of the bolt Wish my damn camera was working. It looks like a new hole with threads sticking about a 1/4 in. from the block. If you look at the pictures I have in this thread it looks like a bolt with no head and a hole in it with a 1.5mm. wall.
 
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Old May 27, 2016 | 03:52 PM
  #33  
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re drill hole to 7/64" and re tap
 
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Old May 27, 2016 | 03:59 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Brian1971f100
re drill hole to 7/64" and re tap
Aren't the H2O pump bolts 3/8" diameter?
https://www.google.com/search?q=3%2F...utf-8&oe=utf-8
 
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Old May 27, 2016 | 06:51 PM
  #35  
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Penetrating oil. Torch, cool. Tap, tap. Penetrating oil, tap, tap. Vice grips. Tap, tap. Heat, vice grips. Tap, tap...
If no luck, file flat, center punch, drill dead center. Relieve the pressure on the threads. Easy Out.
 
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Old May 27, 2016 | 09:16 PM
  #36  
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Okay guys...

The last bit I used ( I think. I'm in bed now so I ain't checkin' ) was a 1/4" so I think whoever said the bolts are 3/8" dia. is probably right. I'm going to get the reverse bits and give it a try. Jefaffa, Mike, anyone else, would you recommend using heat on the block when I do this? I only have a propane torch so I know it may not be that effective.
 
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Old May 28, 2016 | 11:14 AM
  #37  
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If it's cross threaded the threads are toast anyway. Drill it out to tap size and try retap the threads. If this doesn't work a helicoil is the way to go. It's not rocket science. Good luck/skill.
 
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Old May 28, 2016 | 06:16 PM
  #38  
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Do you have the remnants out?
If not, a propane torch is what you need. On the bolt, not the block. The idea is to get differential expansion/contraction on the bolt.
This is not a high torque connection. If you have some thread to work with, a common bolt lightly torqued will work.
 
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Old May 28, 2016 | 11:22 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by CougarJohn
Do you have the remnants out?
If not, a propane torch is what you need. On the bolt, not the block. The idea is to get differential expansion/contraction on the bolt.
This is not a high torque connection. If you have some thread to work with, a common bolt lightly torqued will work.




Not sure what you meant by this last part?

I haven't done a thing since I drilled it out. I bought a set of easy outs. I'm planning on using them Tuesday. Weekends are the wife's.
 
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Old May 29, 2016 | 07:49 AM
  #40  
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Careful using an easy out. They are hard and brittle. If one breaks that will create another problem.
 
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Old May 29, 2016 | 08:26 AM
  #41  
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YUP, Weeping and gnashing of teeth time

Originally Posted by GLR
Careful using an easy out. They are hard and brittle. If one breaks that will create another problem.
Man, you must be psychic. I just broke the frigging tap in the hole. I'm so disgusted with myself I could vomit. Literally. Man, Out of the frying pan and into the fire. So after I regained my composure I went online looking for a solution. RESCUE BITS!!! Sounds like a treat for constipated dogs. Pricey too. Oh well, as John Wayne said... Life is hard. Even harder if your stupid.

Now I would really like to meet the Jackass that caused my misery. How effing hard is it to properly put in water pump bolts?

Anyway I got to thinking. Is there a way to "soften" the tap using heat? I know I know, the block is much softer than the tap. But can't you take the temper out by heating and cooling, heating and cooling? Just a question, don't fall too hard on me. I'm kind of at my wits end.

Another thing I thought of was taking a chisel and trying to break it up little by little. I figured, I'm definitely going to need to helicoil it after this adventure.

Thoughts??
 
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Old May 29, 2016 | 08:44 AM
  #42  
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A machinist told me once, if you break an easy out or tap off, to use a carbide tipped drill at high speed to drill it out. I've tried it a couple of times, with success. But, the cheaper bits don't work that well.
A cheap jig to help drill straight is to put the pump back on with the 3 remaining bolts, use a piece of copper tubing - 3/8 od in the empty hole to act as a guide for drilling. I've used this technique on broken exhaust manifold bolts on the FE engines. (Head off)


I thought the week ends were the wife's. What are you doing working on the truck???
 
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Old May 29, 2016 | 09:15 AM
  #43  
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Some tools can be a danger when in the wrong hands. But this is a learning curve for most all of us who must try are hand of a temping a skilled feel for not over doing it..

You have not learned a hard lesson of what the pros have learned. Easy does it or it will "Break".

Here's my take what you did wrong Ok!

You did not drill out the stud enough which means you have to use the smaller tip of the ez outs..

One thing you forgot in a temping the removing of this broken stud, you forgot how it got to be and was broken from trying to remove it. maybe it was over tighten. "This where you went wrong"

The stud had broke because of a couple of reasons. 1. It was to long and over tighten and bottom out. Or crossed threaded.

So if you would have remember this you would have drilled out as mush as possible.
This makes it important to get it drill in the center and continue drilling the stud until the stud walls are paper thin when using an ez out.

Now walk away and give it more thought on how to fix this problem.

Go on youtube and look how to remove broken ez outs for more Ideas
so you'll not make the problem any worst.
Orich
 
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Old May 29, 2016 | 10:06 AM
  #44  
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Okay, Okay

So Orich, I'm essentially a monkey with a machine gun huh? I Drilled it out to my 1/4" bit. That left what I thought looked like 1.5mm. of wall left ( and incredibly straight and even all the way around! ). When I used the easy out it pulled out essentially what was a paper thin amount with the threads attached. But it came out in two segments and a third segment was still in the hole and I couldn't get the easy out to bite into this. I even tried the next size up in the set.

So I thought I would try the tap and that would "chew" through what remained as it refreshed the threads. There was too much and I didn't back off.

The silver lining of this cloud is there's about a half inch of hole that is clean. So if I can't get it out I'm thinking my last gasp is to use a shorter bolt there

Whaddya think?

I'm taking your advice and any other sages that want to chime in and will do some more homework. Ever hear of someone trying my chisel idea? Probably shatter the friggin' chisel too huh?

As for the wife and weekends we had a little tif and she went to Church and I broke a tap in my block. Karma...
 
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Old May 29, 2016 | 03:08 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by 72CC428
[/B][/I]


Not sure what you meant by this last part?

I haven't done a thing since I drilled it out. I bought a set of easy outs. I'm planning on using them Tuesday. Weekends are the wife's.
I am sorry for the misunderstanding, pal. What I meant was that there is no thermal gradient across the housing, unlike a head or exhaust manifold. The seal is against radiator pressure. If you put some sealant on the gasket- and you have any threads engaging at all- you can gently snug up. If the spec is 20 ft-lbs, snug to 5 on the bad bolt. If it leaks, snug higher.
Get what thread you can get and go with it. Otherwise, you need a guy with an acetylene torch to burn. Risky stuff.

Semper Fi

Bad weekend for the vets
 
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