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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 12:00 PM
  #16  
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Cool Lovely

Here is my present situation




I want to weep.... LOL





Should I try to slowly drill it out, increasing size gradually? I have a starter divot that is centered good. I can also attach a level to my drill.<br/><br/>

Whaddya think guys. I'm all ears on this.


 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 03:17 PM
  #17  
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If you've exhausted all other attempts that we've given you then that would be your last step..Right

Do think this bolt could have been to long that jammed as it bottom out as it was tighten up.

You'll have to measure the depth of the lower threaded bolt hole so you don't over drill it's depth.

Orich
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 04:35 PM
  #18  
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My first attempt would be to weld a nut on it to back it out.

My second attempt would be to drill it out. I recall that's a through-hole so it would be easy to eventually collapse the remnants ... stuff a rag in there to catch most of the debris.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 05:29 PM
  #19  
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Options

I can't budge this thing. It was either too long or a bad cross thread. Either way I can weld a nut to it but what's the point if it won't budge? I think it would just snap off at the block.

Thanks for the tip on measuring depth. Didn't cross my mind that it may be an important thing to consider.

I think I'm going to try and drill it out while I still have some of the bolt to grasp with pliers.


I'm patient if nothing else. I will overcome this!
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 05:36 PM
  #20  
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I've seen the welded nut trick work when things look pretty bad and all else had failed. You still have a lot to work with. Remember, you get a lot of heat on that bolt. I would bet someone put a bolt that was too long.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 10:38 PM
  #21  
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The welded nut trick is awesome.

Back in 2009, the ol man and I were working on tearing down one of our John Deere crawler dozers. Several of the bolts that hold the track rollers were extremely rusted. We had broken the heads off with the big bar. After removing the rollers we used a combination of tools to get them out. We got the surrounding area red hot with the torch, then laid a big nut over the bolt stub and welded it in as hot as we could. While keeping the torch on the surrounding area as well. Then as soon as the welding was done on each bolt, (still yellow hot) I stuck our biggest impact wrench on the nut and laid into it. We got them all out that way. Probably about a dozen of them.

So yeah, heat works. Haha
 
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 06:47 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 351Cleveland C4
The welded nut trick is awesome.

Back in 2009, the ol man and I were working on tearing down one of our John Deere crawler dozers. Several of the bolts that hold the track rollers were extremely rusted. We had broken the heads off with the big bar. After removing the rollers we used a combination of tools to get them out. We got the surrounding area red hot with the torch, then laid a big nut over the bolt stub and welded it in as hot as we could. While keeping the torch on the surrounding area as well. Then as soon as the welding was done on each bolt, (still yellow hot) I stuck our biggest impact wrench on the nut and laid into it. We got them all out that way. Probably about a dozen of them.

So yeah, heat works. Haha
Thanks Cleveland I'll give it a try. I guess I'm going to need a new intake manifold gasket set. SUCK. That thing weighs 80 effin' lbs.!
 
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 07:50 PM
  #23  
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I'd make a metal shield keep as much heat off the block and keep water running on the intake.
I've remove many of broken studs with heating up red hot give it a few hits with a hammer then ice cold shock it down fast with ice cubes and put a wrench on it and see if it will come out.
Orich
 
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Old Apr 29, 2016 | 08:40 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by orich
I'd make a metal shield keep as much heat off the block and keep water running on the intake.
I've remove many of broken studs with heating up red hot give it a few hits with a hammer then ice cold shock it down fast with ice cubes and put a wrench on it and see if it will come out.
Orich
I can't pull this off. Don't have the tools needed.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2016 | 10:48 PM
  #25  
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OOOOOPS SORRY WRONG POSTSORRY.
Orich
 
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Old May 27, 2016 | 10:11 AM
  #26  
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WORKING ON IT

Okay guys, I drilled out the remainder down to about a mm. worth of wall remaining of the bolt. Not sure what I should do at this point. I don't want to f this up. I can't bring it to a shop as it sits now and there is no way I can pull the engine.



Any ideas? I already posted on this but just got up the gumption to tackle it this morning. Thanks Jess.
 
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Old May 27, 2016 | 10:28 AM
  #27  
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Drive an ease out into it and see if the remainer will come out or, if the truck can't be moved, about the only other alternative would be to pull the intake then pull the head and take the head to a machine shop to get the broken bolt removed.
 
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Old May 27, 2016 | 10:33 AM
  #28  
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If you've gone this far....and that close , and confident in the centering, use a 5/16" bit (I think is the tap drill size, check to make sure) and re-thread the hole.
 
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Old May 27, 2016 | 11:10 AM
  #29  
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late in the game , but I have had very good luck with reverse drill bits . start small 1/8 or so . normally 2 drill bit sizes up and bit will grab and back out bolt .
 
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Old May 27, 2016 | 12:11 PM
  #30  
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Okay, at least 2 options

Thanks guys, I will try an ease out once learn what one is and get one If that doesn't work I'll try the other recommendation. I wish it was in the head. It's a water pump bolt in the block. MF"er! ( not you Steve, the bolt ). Murphy's Law of course. I wanted to pull the intake and heads to check the heads out but now I'm leery. If I run into another one in the process I just might cry.

Thanks guys, Todd.
 
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