Ok, my first post on this site and need some help and expertise. I am a novice at fixing and trouble shooting but love to learn so if you can use small words I can usually figure it out!!!

History: When first purchased a couple of months ago I noticed the Coolant sensor was strangely attached and made to stay in place with some type of gasket making material. I did get a check engine light for the sensor and it has been replaced. I had removed the idle control sensor and TPS connectors and cleaned with brake fluid Began to run badly and I got a new check engine light due to a bent pin on the TPS (either pin 1 or 3, can't remember). I straightened the pin and reconnected which resolved the Check Engine light but it ran rough and then had increasing issues to include runs rough even when the engine is hot and hesitates when you step on the gas. Several episodes of truck shifting weirdly while going up aa hill like it couldn't decide which gear was the best to use. Other symptoms and problems that exist are: start in morning and stalls immediately. Start again and RPM goes up for about 30 seconds and then drops to lower more normal idle speed, push on the accelerator and will most likely stall when the engine is cold but acts fine when the engine is hot.

I realized that the bent pin on the TPS was probably the reason the truck was running rougher than normal and could've caused the shifting issues. I ordered a new TPS and while I was waiting for the part the truck stopped working. I ran it in the morning a couple times for some errands and then about an hour later or so I tried to start it and it would crank great but would not turn over or start. I couldn't seem to get a good spark so I replaced the coil with a new part because it was cheap and probably needed to be done anyway. I can verify a spark but still won't start but cranks fine. Got the TPS and removed the old one and installed the new. No directions came with the part so I did nothing but install the sensor and connect it again. Tried to start and cranked great but still won't start. Further investigation and looking and I found that the idle control sensor clip is broken but I pushed it tight and taped it in place temporarily to ensure it wasn't causing the problem.

Now I'm not sure my best course of action. Money is extremely tight so throwing random parts to guess the solution will not work and why I would really like to follow the correct sequence of troubleshooting. I have read about the computer and have no issue pulling it to look for leaking parts. I can solder these parts so no issue if I have to replace. Should I do that first or is there another path I should follow? Both of my fuel pumps turn on and verified fuel pressure is fine. Do I need to do anything additional so the computer recognized the new TPS or will it just start if that was the problem?

One more piece of history. When I first purchased the truck it would start fine when the engine was not hot. After driving and having a hot engine it would be very difficult to start and act like it had a dying battery. After sitting for a while it would start with no problem After much reading and educating myself, I added a third ground cable from the battery to the truck body (one to starter, two separate to the body). I have not had an issue since I added the ground cable and ran fine for some time after this fix.

Only other parts added are a starter solenoid and a new starter. Obvious reasons and fixed both times. Please help...lost and hoping for some good direction for resolving the issue.

Brian

 

I am sorry my first post was so long. Being a novice I just wasn't sure if anyone detail could possibly have an impact on it not starting. I see lots of views and no comments but I really need help from anyone that has an idea for me to try. Any information would be greatly appreciated. I have read and continue to read existing threads related to my issues for clues

 

Have you checked for spark?

 

What is a idle control sensor?
Do you mean the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve actuator?

Other than the heading you do not seem to say anything about it not running at this point.

If you are saying now the engine will crank but not even try to start then as bashby said above check for spark. If you have no spark the remove the SPOUT shorting bar jumper and see if the spark has returned.

You say the fuel pumps run. Do you mean they run all the time the key is on or just run for one second and quit each time the key is turned on?

 

Thanks for clarifying and requesting more information. I probably have the name wrong but the people I know called it the Idle Control Sensor but seems like yours is probably correct and is the IAC.

I can turn the key and hear the fuel pump come on and then off for both tanks so seem to be working. also seem to have good pressure at the pressure relief valve and gas does spray out when I release the pressure. I don't have the equipment to get actual pressure right now though.

We checked for spark once and did not see anything. Replaced the coil while waiting for the TPS to arrive to see if spark returned. Tried to start and it turns over but just never seems to catch for lack of spark or fuel so nothing happens to make it seem like it is trying to actual start. After replacing the TPS (I know this part was damaged so seemed logical) there was no change.

We check for spark by pulling the first spark plug cable(the one closest to the front of the truck) and making direct contact with a screwdriver inside the cable. We did this late at night while it was cranking and did not see any sign of a spark.

I do have a question that may be silly, but need to ask anyway. After installing the TPS how does the computer and TPS know the correct mixtures and such if the engine wont start??? Do I nee to do some type of reset for the TPS to allow the computer or TPS to operate properly?

I appreciate your suggestion for spark and will be doing at some point later tonight or morning. I will post what happens as soon as possible. Thanks again.

 

I would bet the ignition module on the side of the distributor went dead. It is very common for this to happen on the 1991 and older Fords with the ignition module on the side of the distributor. You need a special tool, available at many auto parts stores, to remove and reinstall the ignition module.

 

The ignition module is kinda on the side and bottom of distributor, correct? it has a connector on the end of it? The previous owner had recently replaced the ignition module (I think) , distributor cap, and electrical wires. I replaced the Coil. Can you test the ignition control module without replacing to see if it is working properly?

 

decided to see if there were any new Check Engine Codes and found code 23....this is: Throttle Position Sensor set too high or out of range. I don't know how to fix this or exactly what it means. Caan someone help me with this code and how to resolve.

 

Tps will not cause no spark. Check for spark at the coil wire. If none make sure the rotor in the distributor is turning. If it is remove the spout connector and check for spark. If still no spark, remove the ignition module and take it to a parts store that can test it for you.

 

ok will post when I check

 

When I encounter this situation, the first thing I do is shoot some starting fluid in the throttle body and try to start it. If it starts then I know I have fuel delivery problem. If there is no change, then most likely I have no spark.

 

the ignition module on the side of the distributor is very common. another is the pick up coil inside the distributor. it was my problem.

 

The EEC-IV Ignition (TFI) system does not have a pick up coil in the distributor like the mid an 80's and older Duraspark ignition system did.
The EEC-IV Ignition (TFI) system uses a hall effect switch PIP sensor inside the distributor that responds to a rotating metallic shutter on the distributor shaft and produces a digital PIP signal.

Yes the PIP sensor mounted on the stator could be his problem also and requires the removing of the distributor from the engine to change out the stator. The older system with the pick up coil in the distributor did not require the distributor to be removed to change out the pick up coil in the distributor.

Some auto part store counter men will still call the stator (PIP sensor) a pick-up coil however.

The hall effect stator assembly:


The older pick-up coil:

/

 

Ok, first, thanks to all for the information, education, and guidance. the final problem turned out to be the Ignition Module. I purchased the module and the tool ahead of time and took a chance by swithcing it out with the new part (the old part was installed about 3 months ago and under warranty). Once switched it took some work to get it started and to keep it running. I ended up replacing the TPS and connector, Coil, Ignition Module, and will still need to replace the dle Air Control (IAC) valve actuator.

Only issue s I seem to be having now is the idle runs really high in Park and when shifted into gear the RPMs drop quickly and kinda slams into gear. Drove for about 10 minutes and seems to be improving with every mile.

THanks again for the help!!

 

Whenever you reset the computer by having the battery disconnected for more than 10 minutes, it can take a few days to a week for the ECU to relearn the idle.

Also I have noticed over the years that some 300s like to race up when you first start it. My old one did it (before I replaced it with a 460) and the one I have in my shop right now does it. Give it about 5 secs and the idle will usually come down.