Excursion Cummins Swap Question
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 79
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville TN
Almost finished
Mostly finished. Still smoking too much. Might need to put in a smaller turbo that spools up better. Will be putting in some type of gauge so I can monitor boost.
A/C is all done. The best thing for doing AC lines are the EazyClip fittings by Eaton/Aerotech. Using the G134 hose it is a snap and easy to do. Had to do a different high pressure sensor but that went ok.
Still fine tuning the shifting. It is working good, but there are times when the throttle is a certain spots and speeds where it wants to keep locking/unlocking TC. I believe that will be worked out soon.
If anyone wants to use TunerPro on their V10, finally have the XDF and ADX files to use with the bin. ADX not complete but getting there. This allows you to do data logging and live tuning of the QuarterHorse.
Last major thing is getting cruise control hooked by up. Have to fab up bracket to hook the cable up to the cummins throttle linkage. Should be done something next week.
But it runs good. Drove it to Texas pulling a camper then on the MS to hog hunt, then back to TN. Mechanic called me in MS to find out how it was going. He was surprised that I would get in it for that long a journey as the shakedown cruise. Told him if it had broken down it would have been back in his driveway.
Overall I have been very pleased with the outcome. Just a few minor things to complete.
Then I am going to figure out how to patch the ECM bin to make the overhead computer go back to showing valid numbers. Doesn't really calculate MPG or DTE correctly right now.
A/C is all done. The best thing for doing AC lines are the EazyClip fittings by Eaton/Aerotech. Using the G134 hose it is a snap and easy to do. Had to do a different high pressure sensor but that went ok.
Still fine tuning the shifting. It is working good, but there are times when the throttle is a certain spots and speeds where it wants to keep locking/unlocking TC. I believe that will be worked out soon.
If anyone wants to use TunerPro on their V10, finally have the XDF and ADX files to use with the bin. ADX not complete but getting there. This allows you to do data logging and live tuning of the QuarterHorse.
Last major thing is getting cruise control hooked by up. Have to fab up bracket to hook the cable up to the cummins throttle linkage. Should be done something next week.
But it runs good. Drove it to Texas pulling a camper then on the MS to hog hunt, then back to TN. Mechanic called me in MS to find out how it was going. He was surprised that I would get in it for that long a journey as the shakedown cruise. Told him if it had broken down it would have been back in his driveway.
Overall I have been very pleased with the outcome. Just a few minor things to complete.
Then I am going to figure out how to patch the ECM bin to make the overhead computer go back to showing valid numbers. Doesn't really calculate MPG or DTE correctly right now.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Good luck with that. Mine was bone stock when I bought it and it wasn't accurate then either.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 79
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville TN
Should be able to get close
Not sure how accurate I can make it. Just want to get close. From what I gather, the ECM uses a complicated algorithm based on load, injection events and other things to calculate MPG. I just plan on figuring out how much the injectors flow, then fudge for load and do a simple calculation based on RPM. That should get me close.
New User
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Boston
I did a similar swap with a 12V 4R100 and a TCI controller, I used an old school high beam switch mounted on the floor to control the lock up manually or the TCI did it automatically at 55mph. It's nice to have both options.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 79
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville TN
I didn't use a standalone controller. Still having the original ecm control everything. I did add a Quarterhorse by Moates and put a bin in with custom shift points and TC lock/unlock points. The only issue with trans I have now is that it unlocks the TC whenever the throttle position goes to 0, which happens when you take your foot off and sometimes when cruising because this things runs at such low throttle. That is the Ford factory standard behavior but can be changed. I am waiting on which flag/value to set so that it follows the lock/unlock tables based on MPH. That way I can use it to get some engine braking when slowing down.
Also have a smaller turbo on order and will be installing it. That should help with smoke and fuel economy. I just hand calculated 20.1 MPG on my trip to MS. That should improve with the turbo and adjustments to the injection pump. Looking to get 23 or 24 cruising when I get it set properly.
Also have a smaller turbo on order and will be installing it. That should help with smoke and fuel economy. I just hand calculated 20.1 MPG on my trip to MS. That should improve with the turbo and adjustments to the injection pump. Looking to get 23 or 24 cruising when I get it set properly.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 79
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville TN
Pretty much finished with swap. Just have to get the cruise control mechanism hooked up. Have to do fab work on throttle bracket, but that should be done in the next week or so. I have put several thousand miles on this thing. Runs great and real happy with it. Gonna get Linex on roof this week. Then sometime after new year a new paint job. Will try to get pics up.
As I said, I am happy, but in reality I will never get the money back out of this. I have been keeping a spreadsheet of this and after the Linex I will have $27500 in this project. But that includes everything. A lot of which would be considered normal, like new tires. So depending upon paint job, will have over $30K.
But, I will basically have a mechanically new vehicle. Should last longer than me. Hope I don't get tired of it.
For those interested in this type of things here is a copy of costs.
As I said, I am happy, but in reality I will never get the money back out of this. I have been keeping a spreadsheet of this and after the Linex I will have $27500 in this project. But that includes everything. A lot of which would be considered normal, like new tires. So depending upon paint job, will have over $30K.
But, I will basically have a mechanically new vehicle. Should last longer than me. Hope I don't get tired of it.
For those interested in this type of things here is a copy of costs.
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,014
Likes: 35
From: Semper Fi tell I die!
A lot depends on how you want to do it. I am running into more issues (not really hard) because of my desire to keep it as factory as possible.
Easy swap is to put in a manual trans and that solves a lot of problems. 12V just needs a fuel line and 12 volts to pump solenoid. If auto, then get a PCS or USShift standalone controller.
Me, that's to simple.
Easy put in a one wire alternator. I put in a 6.0L one and had to figure out wiring.
I want to use factory ECM to control the trans. Gotta figure out tuning/programming. Had to leave in airbox with MAF sensor, which is in way of routing intercooler lines, so they have to be custom fabbed.
Wanted to preserve the V10 as a complete engine for resale, so didn't rob any parts/connectors off of it. Had to find those.
Built a wiring adapter to plug into harness in engine bay and then ran wires to engine from that.
Experimented with new motor mounts. Mechanic has done a lot of conversions and has never been happy with any of the "conversion mounts". If you stand back and have a level, engine is a couple degrees off level. I think he is OCD, but it means everything is done right and looks good. I made some adapter blocks he was gonna use to build his own mounts, but the ones we found seem to satisfy him, other than engine being set over to left more than usual, which means we have to do custom intercooler pipes on that side also, along with custom AC lines.
I have been keeping a spreadsheet with all the parts. When finished I will be able to upload that information. Of course I have left out lots of little parts, like thermostat, hose adapters, things like that.
A lot of my expense was wanting to put in all new stuff instead of old stuff that came with the engine.
New AC condensor, Cummins water pump, Alternator, engine gaskets, turbo, ujoints when they shortened the driveshaft, redhead steering gear.
Plus all the new suspension stuff I did before starting the conversion.
When finished, this will basically be a new truck mechanically. Mechanic says it will last longer than I will (not a spring chicken).
Then I can save up money for painting/interior/roof rack/bumpers all those exterior goodies.
Easy swap is to put in a manual trans and that solves a lot of problems. 12V just needs a fuel line and 12 volts to pump solenoid. If auto, then get a PCS or USShift standalone controller.
Me, that's to simple.
Easy put in a one wire alternator. I put in a 6.0L one and had to figure out wiring.
I want to use factory ECM to control the trans. Gotta figure out tuning/programming. Had to leave in airbox with MAF sensor, which is in way of routing intercooler lines, so they have to be custom fabbed.
Wanted to preserve the V10 as a complete engine for resale, so didn't rob any parts/connectors off of it. Had to find those.
Built a wiring adapter to plug into harness in engine bay and then ran wires to engine from that.
Experimented with new motor mounts. Mechanic has done a lot of conversions and has never been happy with any of the "conversion mounts". If you stand back and have a level, engine is a couple degrees off level. I think he is OCD, but it means everything is done right and looks good. I made some adapter blocks he was gonna use to build his own mounts, but the ones we found seem to satisfy him, other than engine being set over to left more than usual, which means we have to do custom intercooler pipes on that side also, along with custom AC lines.
I have been keeping a spreadsheet with all the parts. When finished I will be able to upload that information. Of course I have left out lots of little parts, like thermostat, hose adapters, things like that.
A lot of my expense was wanting to put in all new stuff instead of old stuff that came with the engine.
New AC condensor, Cummins water pump, Alternator, engine gaskets, turbo, ujoints when they shortened the driveshaft, redhead steering gear.
Plus all the new suspension stuff I did before starting the conversion.
When finished, this will basically be a new truck mechanically. Mechanic says it will last longer than I will (not a spring chicken).
Then I can save up money for painting/interior/roof rack/bumpers all those exterior goodies.
itll be all nice tell some jerk pulls out in front of you and its totaled then the insurance company gives you 5k for it. then its start over time.
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: MI
Okay tkmitchell,
I am in the process of looking for an Excursion but want to have a plan laid out incase I go the route of purchasing a non running truck.
So the questions I have so far are as follows:
1. Are the transmission and all other drivetrain parts in the factory location (except Engine)?
2. What engine mounts did your mechanic ultimately end up using?
3. Is the wiring really in-depth (to keep factory trans controller)?
4. Did you solve the lock/unlock issue for the torque converter lock? (setting the flag so that it does not go in and out)
5. What did you use or how did you get the 4r100 tuned initially?
6. How is fuel economy, what rear gear ration do you have?
This is just what I can think of right now. Sorry for all the questions just trying to put a plan together. Thank you in advance!
I am in the process of looking for an Excursion but want to have a plan laid out incase I go the route of purchasing a non running truck.
So the questions I have so far are as follows:
1. Are the transmission and all other drivetrain parts in the factory location (except Engine)?
2. What engine mounts did your mechanic ultimately end up using?
3. Is the wiring really in-depth (to keep factory trans controller)?
4. Did you solve the lock/unlock issue for the torque converter lock? (setting the flag so that it does not go in and out)
5. What did you use or how did you get the 4r100 tuned initially?
6. How is fuel economy, what rear gear ration do you have?
This is just what I can think of right now. Sorry for all the questions just trying to put a plan together. Thank you in advance!
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 9
From: Central Florida
Okay tkmitchell,
I am in the process of looking for an Excursion but want to have a plan laid out incase I go the route of purchasing a non running truck.
So the questions I have so far are as follows:
1. Are the transmission and all other drivetrain parts in the factory location (except Engine)?
2. What engine mounts did your mechanic ultimately end up using?
3. Is the wiring really in-depth (to keep factory trans controller)?
4. Did you solve the lock/unlock issue for the torque converter lock? (setting the flag so that it does not go in and out)
5. What did you use or how did you get the 4r100 tuned initially?
6. How is fuel economy, what rear gear ration do you have?
This is just what I can think of right now. Sorry for all the questions just trying to put a plan together. Thank you in advance!
I am in the process of looking for an Excursion but want to have a plan laid out incase I go the route of purchasing a non running truck.
So the questions I have so far are as follows:
1. Are the transmission and all other drivetrain parts in the factory location (except Engine)?
2. What engine mounts did your mechanic ultimately end up using?
3. Is the wiring really in-depth (to keep factory trans controller)?
4. Did you solve the lock/unlock issue for the torque converter lock? (setting the flag so that it does not go in and out)
5. What did you use or how did you get the 4r100 tuned initially?
6. How is fuel economy, what rear gear ration do you have?
This is just what I can think of right now. Sorry for all the questions just trying to put a plan together. Thank you in advance!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ns-o-pics.html
PS: I used a dodge trans and did not have to use any controller
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: MI
Thank you Oldguyfl I contacted tk via pm, He said he would answer questions so I posted them here so that everyone has access to the answers when he has a chance to answer them.
I will check out that thread though!
I will check out that thread though!
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 79
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville TN
1. Are the transmission and all other drivetrain parts in the factory location (except Engine)?
Trans setting back farther because of engine. But used factory mounting. Had to have rear driveshaft shortened, but one to front from transfer case still worked.
2. What engine mounts did your mechanic ultimately end up using?
From Destroked. Can get you part numbers. But the guy who did mine is probably gonna start making his own. He pays a lot of attention to detail.
3. Is the wiring really in-depth (to keep factory trans controller)?
No extra wiring at all. Kept the original ECM so all wiring is same. Got the plug and harness off an engine and wired sensors and items on 6BT into it so it plugged right in.
4. Did you solve the lock/unlock issue for the torque converter lock? (setting the flag so that it does not go in and out)
Factory ECM is controlling trans. I did put a Quarterhorse board/chip in the ECM. And program it with TunerPro RT. Software is shareware but good. I have programmed all the shift points and TQ lock/unlock points myself. Still fine tuning them, but easy to change.
5. What did you use or how did you get the 4r100 tuned initially?
See above. Should note that I had a TQ custom built. Factory one is not low stall. And this engine runs at a lot lower RPMs than gasser.
6. How is fuel economy, what rear gear ration do you have?
I have 3.73 and get between 19 and 20. I think I could easily get over 20 if I drove it 65.
Trans setting back farther because of engine. But used factory mounting. Had to have rear driveshaft shortened, but one to front from transfer case still worked.
2. What engine mounts did your mechanic ultimately end up using?
From Destroked. Can get you part numbers. But the guy who did mine is probably gonna start making his own. He pays a lot of attention to detail.
3. Is the wiring really in-depth (to keep factory trans controller)?
No extra wiring at all. Kept the original ECM so all wiring is same. Got the plug and harness off an engine and wired sensors and items on 6BT into it so it plugged right in.
4. Did you solve the lock/unlock issue for the torque converter lock? (setting the flag so that it does not go in and out)
Factory ECM is controlling trans. I did put a Quarterhorse board/chip in the ECM. And program it with TunerPro RT. Software is shareware but good. I have programmed all the shift points and TQ lock/unlock points myself. Still fine tuning them, but easy to change.
5. What did you use or how did you get the 4r100 tuned initially?
See above. Should note that I had a TQ custom built. Factory one is not low stall. And this engine runs at a lot lower RPMs than gasser.
6. How is fuel economy, what rear gear ration do you have?
I have 3.73 and get between 19 and 20. I think I could easily get over 20 if I drove it 65.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 79
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville TN
Where in MI are you greezmky. My wife is from Detroit area so we did get up there on occasion. Unfortunately her father passed away and not likely to make too many more trips up there. But if you ever get through Knoxville area let me know. Also get to Southern MS a lot too.
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