Need Help With My 351c
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Need Help With My 351c
O.k. I'm a novice engine builder, I just put $500.00 worth of work into my 2V heads. So everything is done there. I think one of the contributing factors to the head problem was the lack of oil getting to the rockers for the #1 cylinder. All pushrods and rockers have been replaced. This car/engine is someone else's aborted project, he put a cam in it but can't remember what the grind was. Engine has and Edelbrock performer intake and an Edelbrock 600cfm carb. Runs fairly well with the exception of noisy valvetrain. When I tore this down to do the heads I found oil only half way up the #1 cylinder intake pushrod, dry and rusty on top, clean oily on bottom. No obstructions in rod and then replaced pushrod but still have problem. A friend believes I need to replace my cam and lifters. Any advice....??????
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Need Help With My 351c
Should I try just the lifters first. I'm told putting fresh lifters on an old cam can make it go flat. I'm also told that my cam may already be flat and contributing to the problem. Or should I belly up and put a cam and lifters in and forget it?
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Need Help With My 351c
For some reason I always thought I learned it the other way around; you can use an old cam with new lifters, but you can't put old lifters on a new cam or it can flatten the lobes. Something to do with the wear pattern on the bottom of the lifters. I could be wrong, it's been many moons since I've heard all of that. They also say if you are going to put a used cam into an engine, use the lifters that were with it and put them back into their exact lobe locations. I'd just play it safe if I had the cash and replace both.
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Need Help With My 351c
New lifters on an old cam in good condition should be fine. The problem is if the bottom of the lifter is worn bad, the cam is also probably worn and on its way out. That's why it seems like new lifters make a used cam go bad. If the bottom of the lifters is in good shape and the problem is with the hydraulic portion, new lifters will be a simple fix. Of course, it would also be a good time to upgrade the cam to one that would match the use of the engine, especially since you don't know what's in it now. If the only problem is the lifter not pumping oil up the pushrod, (which is controlled by the lifter), try just replacing the lifter. It's a cheap fix. If the problem is deeper, you'll soon find out.
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Need Help With My 351c
i think the concept is that when the cam and lifters are new, they polish each other and wear in together. i have heard someone say that this process also work hardens the surface. by putting a new lifter on a worn in lobe, the cross hatch of the new lifter will grind away at the hardened and polished surface of the lobe, exposing raw cast iron which is not very hard at all. that's the theory anyway.
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Need Help With My 351c
you guys rock. Any suggestions for a grind. It's a 1972 Ranchero GT engine mods i'm aware of are as follows. Freshly machined heads with factory specs (2v) Edelbrock Performer intake, New Edelbrock 600cfm card. Rear end is rumored to be a 4.30 but I haven't climbed under it yet to try and find a tag. C6 auto, exhaust is full length headers flowing into a pair of glasspacks (which I'm gonna axe in favor of a set of nice sounding mufflers with a crossover tube, or at least that is the plan.....)
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Need Help With My 351c
And I wouldn't hold my breath looking for a tag on the rear end for 4.30 gears; I'm pretty sure Ford only used those on "Drag Pack" vehicles and maybe some Boss cars. If it is a 4.30, I'd say it's been changed over, so if the tag is there it won't be what you have. And if there was a gear swap I wouldn't hold my breath that the tag got put back on either. You'll have to do the "count the wheel rotation vs. the driveshaft rotation" thing.
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Need Help With My 351c
"My" tech was thinking about 280 duration and 535 lift. I told him I wanted a somewhat lumpy and aggressive sound. He was showing me one that would have a 2500-6500 power band and said I would loose some bottom end but I should be o.k. since the stock torque converter doesn't lock up until about 2000 and a stall converter wouldn't be necessary. I want to get as aggresive as possible with the cam, without making the car undrivable, I live out in the country so my commute is about 26 miles of two lane and not many stops between, and the car would probably be driven two to three times per week. In regards to the driveshaft/wheel deal, it would be: x turns of driveshaft to x turns of wheel is the ratio or is there another more complex and secretive way of doing it?
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